Among these, some species of Echinocereus, as the plant you see in the photo, which I had given up for dead, and whitch instead was reborn after two winters spent entirely outdoors, exposed to the cold and humidity whitch characterizes northern Italy. In this article here is the history of this plant and a brief overview of the succulent plants that we can keep outdoors all year round. (…)

Premise

The precautions we take to protect our succulents during the winter months, particularly in the Northern regions, are important. Yes, because if it is true that most cacti and many succulents (to understand the difference between cacti and succulents you can read this article) have good resistance to the cold, it is equally true that too much watering or a night frost is enough to seriously damage these plants or, potentially, trigger rot, particularly if the cold is accompanied by prolonged environmental humidity conditions. Moving the plants to a place sheltered from the rain, covering them with various layers of non-woven fabric, sheltering them in not cramped greenhouses and airing them on sunny days is certainly the best solution to minimize losses. In some cases even this is not enough: think of cacti such as Melocactus, Discocactus and all epiphytes, or succulents originating from Madagascar and some African areas, such as many Euphorbias and all Adenium obesum. All these plants require minimum temperatures not lower than 15-16 Celsius degrees and must therefore be brought indoors from at least mid-October, when the night-time minimum temperatures begin to drop significantly.

Here you will find an article with two downloadable PDF handbooks with the ideal placement for the various succulents in winter.

The Echinocereus returned from the cold

Having made the necessary introduction, here is the story of this Echinocereus of mine who wanted to amaze me, at the same time giving me an important lesson and reiterating the concept – which I have already assimilated thanks to other experiences in the past – that with succulent plants it is important not to give anything for granted. The plant in question is an Echinocereus laui. I grow a few specimens of the Echinocereus genus and I grow them mainly for the flower, since I don’t find the stems or thorns of these plants particularly attractive (with a few exceptions such as E. lindsayi). The plant you see in the photos has been with me for several years. Doing some quick calculations, just under twenty years to be more precise and the story of his “apparent death” and rebirth (in the cold) dates back at least four years. Initially this plant, which I took while still very small, in a 6 or 7 centimeter pot, grew regularly, soon starting to take on its columnar shape (although its size was limited to about fifteen centimeters) and to flower regularly.

At a certain point, years ago, the main stem sent out a branch and the plant, little by little, took on a “double” appearance: over time the stem and the branch in short reached the same height. Well before the branch reached the main stem, however, the latter began to bend significantly, to the point that I decided to tie it to a plant support. In those years the plant grew regularly and flowered, as can be seen from the photo on the side. After further years, when the two stems were now even, the Echinocerus began to slow down its growth, until it stopped completely. The apex did not develop and did not produce new spines. In the meantime, the stems were bending more and more noticeably despite the support and the lower part of the plant began to take on a grey, not at all encouraging, appearance.

After a couple of seasons, seeing that the Echinocereus showed no signs of recovery and that the entire stem had now taken on an ugly greyish colour, I thought there was nothing left to do. The plant did not grow or flower. It showed no obvious signs of rot but the color of the stem seemed like a complete condemnation, to the point that I didn’t even bother to dig up the plant and check the roots. Considering it to be in fact already dead, I limited myself to removing it from the greenhouse and taking it outside, placing it along a low wall where I usually leave the plants affected by some fungus or otherwise dead. The wall is located along a field and offers no shelter from the rain and, obviously, from the cold. I use it mostly to let the plants go in peace when I think there’s nothing left to do…

The Echinocerus spent the final part of the summer in that position, the entire following winter and, since I completely forgot about it, the entire year after that, including the winter. Only after a year and a half, therefore, did the plant manage to attract my attention. How did it do? Simply flowering, so that while hanging out near the greenhouse I spotted a couple of spots of color in the distance (Echinocereus laui produces beautiful magenta flowers, not as large as those of other Echinocereus but still very showy). Not without surprise, I approached the wall after almost two years and discovered that the Echinocereus had not only survived two winters in the cold, in full humidity and receiving the rain that had fallen in all that time, but had started again. The recovery was evident: the apical part of the two stems was green, the plant had produced new thorns perfectly identical to the old ones, and had flowered. As proof of all this, here in this article are some of the photos I took on that occasion.

Here’s a good lesson for me: the plant I had given up on had come back to life, in my face, and had attracted my attention by starting to flower again. All this without any treatment from me, in fact, resisting the cold and humidity of two winters and returning to grow as if nothing had happened. Obviously, as soon as I discovered that the Echinocereus was in full vegetation and, even with the old part of the stem still grey, I brought it back to the greenhouse, where it is still found today and where every year the two stems, increasingly longer and increasingly prostrate (I gave up the support, letting the plant take on the shape it wanted or needed to take on) they regularly give me splendid blooms in late spring. Once again Nature has shown me that, no matter what we do, in the end it is always and only she who decides.

Succulents that tolerate cold

Despite the “rebirth” of my Echinocereus, it must be said that this genus of cactus is among the most inclined to tolerate low temperatures. Of course, as a precaution I don’t recommend keeping your Echinocereus outdoors all year round, also because some species resist better than others and not all would survive, but the genus is robust, there’s no doubt about that. 

As regards, more generally, succulent plants that tolerate the cold well and that we can leave outdoors all year round, albeit with some precautions, here is a small overview based on my experience over many years of cultivation.

As obvious as we want, but among the first succulents that have a good relationship with the cold we cannot fail to mention the Agaves. In many areas of Italy (even in the North, particularly in the areas close to lakes) and in southern France (French Riviera) these succulents can also be grown in the open ground. In pots they can remain outdoors all year round, although the advice is to keep them under sheds or porches to prevent the soil from remaining constantly damp. Among the Agaves, the exception is the macroacantha species, which cannot resist intense cold and excessive humidity. This species must therefore be sheltered and kept at temperatures no lower than 3 or 4 Celsius degrees. Also be careful with Aloes, which many mistakenly associate with Agaves. Aloes are plants of African origin and require significantly higher minimum temperatures than Agaves (although 6 or 7 Celsius degrees are sufficient) and should not be watered in winter.

Still remaining in the field of non-cacaceae succulents, the Sempervivum and Sedum (genera belonging to the Crassulaceae family) should be mentioned without hesitation. For these plants, which also grow in the mountains, winter is a… walk in the park and they thrive better in the cold than closed in a greenhouse or sheltered by layers of non-woven fabric. Sedum and Sempervivum can therefore be left outdoors all year round without any shelter from the rain: they grow better in the cold than in the oppressive heat of summer!

Cacti that resist outdoors

Most cacti can handle the cold very well, even intense temperatures, i.e. with night-time lows around zero Celsius degrees (even a few degrees lower), as long as they are in a dry substrate from the end of September. Some genera are even more robust and can be kept outdoors all year round, in some cases even in damp soil (but avoiding the stagnation that can be created with excessively peaty substrates or, worse, leaving the plants resting on saucers).

Among the most resistant cactaceae are undoubtedly almost all Echinopsis, which are often left on balconies and terraces with the only precaution of sheltering them from the rain (although these plants are often able to survive even in damp soil). Almost all Opuntias are very robust and, like the Agaves, in some areas (Southern Italy, the Ligurian Riviera, the French Riviera) grow in the open ground without any problem. Tephrocactus, Chilean plants that have some affinities with Opuntia, also tolerate the cold well and can spend the winter outdoors, as long as they are sheltered from the rain. However, a spray from time to time during the winter months is useful for these cacti, which if kept dry for months easily lose their “cladodes” (the new parts of the stem). Within the Tephrocactus genus, however, it is useful to keep the geometricus species sheltered, which is very “in fashion” in recent years: the cold and humidity easily cause stains on the stem of this cactus.

Other genera of cacti accustomed to spending long periods in intense cold are the Pediocactus and the Escobaria (almost all species). These are not very widespread genera but are ideal for those who want to grow cacti without having to move them in the winter months. Pediocactus and some species of Escobaria (for example E. vivipara) can tolerate temperatures several degrees below zero even in damp soil. For years I have kept some specimens of Pediocactus (simpsonii and knowltonii) and some Escobaria vivipara outside the greenhouse all year round, letting them get the rain even in winter: they have always resisted and flowered regularly.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE SITE  – If you liked this article, subscribe to the site to have unlimited access to all the contents for one year or three months depending on the formula you choose. Here you will find terms and conditions.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE NEWSLETTER  – If you want to receive the free newsletter every time new content is published, fill in the fields at this link!

Correlated articles

• Where to keep succulents in winter?
• Succulents and cold: minimum temperatures
• Seasonal care for cacti and succulents
• Be careful of winter blooms

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Succulents outdoor all year? Here are the ones that resist and the story of my “resurrected” Echinocereus proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

A practical handbook and an in-depth analysis on a much debated topic among those who grow succulent and/or cactus plants. Here’s what you’ll find by reading this article, designed specifically to help those who, with the first drops in temperatures, are starting to wonder where to place their succulents when the real cold arrives. Unless you have a greenhouse, perhaps equipped with a burner regulated by a thermostat, the question is in fact more than pertinent: during the winter it is better to keep the succulent plants outside (sheltered from the rain), or in a cool environment such as a landing, an internal staircase or even a garage? Or should we bring all the plants indoors? It is good to clarify immediately that the answer to these questions cannot be tranchant or “absolute”: obviously the correct winter location depends on many factors, starting from the area in which the plants are grown (North or South Italy? North or South Europe? Sea or high mountains?) to arrive at the type of plant (Cactaceae, succulent native to Africa or Madagascar? Sempervivum, Crassula, Euphorbia?). In short, the range of cases is very broad and as always there are no absolute rules. Luckily there are many fixed points and many precautions that should be respected to ensure that our succulents pass the winter securely and take advantage of the vegetative stasis to be able to flower again the following year.

The following article answers these questions, and you will also find an indication of the correct measures to be taken to ensure that cacti and succulents overwinter in the best possible way, have abundant blooms and, above all, you’ll find a practical handbook with an indication of the best location for cacti and succulents organized in alphabetical order, so as to facilitate the identification of the plant, understand in which minimum temperature range it can stay and where it can be placed (for example outside, on a landing, or directly inside the house). (…)

Premise

Succulent plants, whether Cactaceae or succulent plants belonging to other families such as Crassulaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Euphorbiaceae, etc., are not houseplants. They can certainly adapt to home cultivation, but they are plants that require light, air and which find their best location in outdoor environments such as windowsills, terraces, gardens or open greenhouses. This, of course, in the growing season which generally runs from March to October. The problem, and therefore the focus of this article, is winter, also because not everyone has the possibility of having a greenhouse or a garden. Given the slight drop in temperatures in recent days, questions are growing regarding how to behave in view of the cold weather in the coming months. As always, given that succulents are a varied world, made up of thousands of botanical species, unfortunately there is no single answer. However, there are parameters and references on which we can rely to give the correct answer to the question regarding wintering. These parameters are essentially the guides underlying the handbook that you will find at the end of the article.

Attention: this article is designed specifically for those who are not yet very familiar with these plants and need practical information and quick answers: for example, I have this succulent, where can I place it when it gets cold? For more specific insights and tables with the minimum temperatures that succulents can reach, it is possible to refer to two other articles published in the past. The first article, accompanied by a table with minimum temperatures, can be found at this link. The second article, which deals with seasonal care in detail, can be reached via this link.

Cacti

Let’s begin to distinguish between Cactaceae and succulent plants in general. The distinction is not intended to complicate the matter, but rather to simplify it to more quickly identify the correct solution to the initial question: where to place the plants during the winter? If you want to learn more about the difference between a cactus and any other succulent (for example Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops), you will find this article helpful.

Almost all cacti tolerate low temperatures very well. By low temperatures we mean minimums close to zero Celsius degrees or even well below this value. The cacti can therefore also be placed outside as long as watering is completely suspended at the end of September and they are positioned in a cold place sheltered from the rain. These are also the essential conditions for the plants to flower from the following spring. Therefore, a terrace, a balcony or a garden are fine. The important thing is that the cacti do not take on water until the end of March and the temperatures do not fall below zero Celsius degrees for several consecutive nights. In the event of frost or prolonged nights with temperatures well below zero, it is advisable to move the plants to a less cold place, even if only temporarily. A useful precaution is to cover the cacti with at least two or three layers of non-woven fabric: naturally it doesn’t work miracles, but two or three degrees more ensures them and, above all, allows transpiration, preventing condensation from forming on the plants or a humid environment is created, which is very dangerous for these plants as it favors the formation of stains on the stem, mold and fungi. On sunny winter days it is useful to raise the tissue even for a couple of hours to ensure the plants have a good exchange of air. It is best to avoid small greenhouses closed by thick sheets of transparent plastic, unless you always leave them open during daylight hours.

An exception to this basic rule are some genera of cacti, which do not tolerate the cold and should therefore be kept indoors or in environments where temperatures do not fall below certain limits (for example an internal staircase, a landing or even a garage). In these cases it is not necessary for the plants to receive a lot of light because if we suspend watering the cacti go into stasis and stop growing. This avoids the risk of “etiolation”, i.e. the so-called “spinning” which disfigures the plant from an aesthetic point of view. Attention: however, if we see excessive wrinkling of the stem or branches of these cacti, particularly if they are wintering indoors, it is advisable to water in moderation, at most once a month. The cacti that do not tolerate the cold are those originating from tropical areas and forests: firstly the epiphytic cacti (Schlumbergera, but also Epiphyllum, Rhipsalis, Aporocactus); secondly, two species native to Brazil and the Cuban archipelago: Melocactus and Discocactus. All these plants must winter at minimum temperatures no lower than 12/14 Celsius degrees (Melocactus and Discocactus require even higher minimum temperatures, between 16-18 Celsius degrees): you will find all the indications and the reference to the genus in the handbook accompanying this article.

Succulent

In theory, for succulents the matter becomes a little more complicated. This is because the Cactaceae is a single family that is divided into genera, species and subspecies. Succulents, on the other hand, are distributed in various families which are in turn divided into genera, species and subspecies. The number of these plants is therefore very high and providing specific indications plant by plant is almost impossible. However, even in this case it is sufficient to set a few “boundaries” to make the matter less complicated. The first element to consider is the place of origin of the plant: many succulents come from Africa or Madagascar (for example Euphorbia and Lithops). Clearly these plants require higher minimum temperatures and cultivation at home or in an environment where the minimum temperatures do not drop below 10/12 Celsius degrees is ideal. Other families or genera, for example Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, tolerate intense cold very well, in many cases even well below freezing.

Even with succulents it is advisable to suspend or at least reduce watering during the winter months, whether they are in a cold environment or in an apartment. During the winter months, in fact, almost all plants slow down in growth and frequent watering would only expose the specimen to the risk of root rot. Generally speaking, you can adjust as follows: from the end of October to the end of March, succulents should be placed in environments sheltered from rain and at temperatures between 7 and 16 Celsius degrees. There are many exceptions, such as the aforementioned Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, which we can keep outdoors even without protection and letting them take the rain (as long as it is not torrential and lasts for whole days). Other plants, such as some species of Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops (the so-called “stone plants”), tolerate the cold well but must be kept dry and at temperatures between 2 and 7 Celsius degrees. Other plants native to Africa or Madagascar, such as Adenium obesum (called “Desert Rose”), Pachypodium (the so-called “Madagascar Palm”), Uncarina and several species of Euphorbia require several degrees more because they do not tolerate the cold: all these plants will therefore have to be brought indoors from at least mid-October, unless autumn is mild and the minimum temperatures remain high even in this period, as happens in the regions of Southern Italy, Southern France or in Spain.

The handbook that completes this article will also be useful to orient you between the needs of the various succulents.

The handbook

The handbook (actually the handbooks, since one is dedicated to cacti and the other to succulents). It is intended to be a useful tool for the still inexperienced grower or for the expert grower who is approaching a particular genre for the first time. Naturally, the handbook should be considered as a tool, a sort of “map” through which to orient yourself and should not be understood as an “absolute” compendium with dogmas or strict rules, also because the temperatures indicated have been “rounded” a little upwards precisely with the aim of not putting your plants at risk (for example if the range between 5 and 10 degrees is indicated, it is very likely that the plants included in this range can tolerate even a few degrees less). Many growers have conducted experiments discovering that certain plants can resist temperatures lower than what is commonly thought, just as others have found that plants considered rustic were not able to survive the winter (in these cases, however, it is more likely that unpredictable factors have occurred, such as frequent frosts or that the specimen itself was already weak or not in perfect shape).

How to read the handbook

The handbook – both for cacti and succulents – is designed for quick and easy consultation. The three icons consider three possible environments for the wintering of plants:

1. the outside: the plants should be placed outside the house but sheltered from the rain and, for caution, protected by a few layers of non-woven fabric;
2. environments protected from rain but without heating, such as a landing, an internal stairwell, a room in the house where the radiator has been closed. For succulents that fall into this “category”, at most, even a very sheltered corner of a balcony can be fine, as long as the plants are covered by at least four layers of non-woven fabric;
3. the apartment: warm environment (generally between 18 and 20 Celsius degrees) and obviously protected from rain. In this case it is best to place the plants near a window and away from heat sources.

Each icon is color coded and genres are listed alphabetically. It is sufficient to scroll through the downloadable handbooks below, identify the genre whose needs we want to know and look at the color of the line in which the genre is written: depending on the color we then refer to the icon.

Download the handbook on winter placement of cacti

Download the handbook on winter placement of succulents

 CULTIVATION CARDS  – To further deepen your knowledge of a single genus of cactus or succulent, remember that in the website shop, at this link, detailed sheets are available in downloadable and printable PDF format with notions, anecdotes, curiosities and precise cultivation instructions. You can find the cards simply by scrolling through the shop, after the section dedicated to subscriptions.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE SITE  – If you liked this article, subscribe to the site to have unlimited access to all the contents for one year or three months depending on the formula you choose. Here you will find terms and conditions.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE NEWSLETTER  – If you want to receive the free newsletter every time new content is published, fill in the fields at this link!

Correlated articles

Succulents and cold: a table with reference values
Seasonal care for cacti and succulents
How to grow cacti: the handbook

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Where to keep succulents in winter? Outside, on a landing or in the house? A practical handbook proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Let’s go against the trend, since the period is more suitable for talking about suspending watering than about how, how much, when a cactus or succulent plant is watered. The topic, however, is of primary importance and although already covered in a specific article published in the “early days” of this site, it deserves further study. And it deserves it, perhaps even more so, now that we are approaching the moment when (at least in Northern Italy and in Europe) it is appropriate to suspend irrigation. Knowing when to say stop wetting cacti and succulent plants in general is essential to avoid rot during the winter. Knowing in which ways it is possible to water our plants (from above, like rain, or from below, or wetting only the soil, etc.), knowing how many times to water them during the growing season, how to adjust with the various genres, how to relate watering to the substrates used and much more is equally fundamental.

This is therefore the reason for this article, which also answers the many questions on this topic – how are succulent watered, how often are they watered, in which way? etc. – placed at any time of the year by novice growers (and not only novice). Not to mention that, if we want to go into detail, there are cacti and succulents that really appreciate some winter watering. Didn’t you know? More and more this article will be for you.

Per proseguire nella lettura dell'articolo Accedi o Abbonati
To continue reading the article LogIn or Subscribe

L'articolo From above, from below, only the soil: how cacti and succulents get wet and how long we can do it proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

A spring that is struggling to establish itself, temperatures that fluctuate continuously with sunny and very hot days and gloomy days with the thermometer plummeting. Above all, heavy rain almost every day for at least a week, at least here in the North Italy. Many of us have already moved their cacti and succulents outside, or have removed the winter protections (non-woven fabric or transparent sheets). Many are worried, some run for cover by bringing the plants indoors, others are undecided about what to do… Is it really the case to worry about the combination of low temperatures and persistent rain?

In this article, here are some reflections and the answer to the question that many of you are asking me these days, as always based on what I have learned in years of cultivation (…).

Per proseguire nella lettura dell'articolo Accedi o Abbonati
To continue reading the article LogIn or Subscribe

L'articolo The cacti, the spring that doesn’t come and the rain that doesn’t stop: should we be worried? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

The topic is a classic and the question is among the most frequently asked among cactus and succulent growers: until when can I water my plants? In other words, given that – as even less expert growers know – it is advisable to keep cacti cold and dry during the winter months until they can be watered, when exactly should we stop watering? And again: should watering be suspended completely or will it just have to be reduced? Are there cacti that can or should also be watered in autumn and winter? Are there any non-cacti succulent plants, especially those with leaves, which need to be watered even in the winter months, otherwise the branches and leaves will wither? It is clear that part of the answer to these questions can vary according to the place where we grow plants (there is a big difference, just to give an example in the Northern hemisphere, between Sicily and Great Britain, Spain or Germany), but in principle it can be said that there are many fixed points that every grower must know and respect in order for his succulents to grow healthy and robust and to flower profusely. Above all, there are some fixed points that must be respected to avoid, quite simply, rotting our cacti and succulent plants during the winter or early spring.

And since the period in which most of the cacti and succulents will go into vegetative stasis is approaching, it is advisable to deepen these fixed points and learn to at least distinguish the macro-water needs of the various families of succulents. This is exactly what we will do in the following article (…)

Per proseguire nella lettura dell'articolo Accedi o Abbonati
To continue reading the article LogIn or Subscribe

L'articolo Summer is at the end of the line: until when can we water cacti and succulent plants? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Succulent plants, and cacti in particular, have evolved to accumulate water reserves and thus be able to deal with long periods of drought. In their natural habitats, cacti are subject to sudden changes in temperature between night and day, but also to an alternation between periods of total drought and periods of great water availability. In the sub-desert regions of the southern United States (California, Arizona, Texas, Nevada, etc.), as well as in Mexico, Central America and Latin America (Chile and Argentina, for example), during the growing season, corresponding to spring and summer, the hot, dry days are often abruptly interrupted by heavy downpours. If in nature the plants know how to manage these conditions without particular problems, in cultivation it can happen that the transition from the stasis season to the growth season, if accompanied by an overly “decisive” resumption of irrigation, gives rise to the phenomenon of splitting of the stems.

In this article we see how and why this phenomenon can occur, how to remedy it to prevent the plant from contracting rot and above all how to avoid splits. (…)

Per proseguire nella lettura dell'articolo Accedi o Abbonati
To continue reading the article LogIn or Subscribe

L'articolo When the cactus “explodes” from too much water: how to avoid cracks on the stem proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Like any living thing, succulent plants need water. How, how much and when water depends on many factors, such as the time of the year, the place where you live (North or South Italy, for example?), temperatures, environmental humidity, the substrates you use, the size of the pots, and more… Before going into the details of watering, let us sure to definitively put aside false convictions legacy of who knows what experiences at the edge of the absurd. For example, let’s get the fact that cacti and succulent plants have to be watered with droppers or watered once in a blue moon.

General introduction

In nature, in the sub-desertic areas where these plants live, it often rains torrentially and for whole days. Or it rains every afternoon with the clouds discharge impressive quantities of water if compared to those we are used to seeing in Europe. For one thing, in many areas of Mexico (Baja California, for example, as I was able to experience during one of my trips), between September and October is time for extreme rains often accompanied by cyclones and hurricanes. From June to September, always in many sub-Saharan areas of Mexico, there are intense showers with daily frequency, especially in the afternoon. Moreover, in nature, the differences between night and day temperatures can be such as to produce abundant dew in the early morning hours: also this is water that many cacti can absorb to quench their thirst (not unlike the fog that surrounds, in Chile, the Copiapoa).

So it makes no sense to say tout court that cacti should be scarcely wet and at long intervals. In vegetative season, between the end of March and September/October, cacti drink well. Some species of genera like Sclerocactus, Pediocactus, Escobaria, Opuntia, also drink in winter. Other succulent plants – Africans, for example – can have inverted the cycle of the seasons, since while we are in summer at their latitudes in winter, therefore should be wet during our winter months and left dry in our summer months.

This is to say that, in addition to the factors of cultivation, we must first consider the basic conditions that plants have in their habitat. That said, some limits should be set. Just for a convention or because the times are mainly dictated by the temperatures, we can therefore say that basically the Cactaceae and the succulents of the Northern hemisphere must be watered in the period between the end of March and the beginning of October (better still, at least in Northern Italy, stop in mid-September to give time to the plants to prepare for winter).

What kind of water to use

If the question were: What is the best water for cacti? the answer would be clear: the rainy one. For those who cultivate in greenhouses and have the opportunity to collect rain in large tanks the problem would not even arise. Rainwater is definitely the best: it has an acidic pH and does not contain limestone or chemicals such as chlorine, to name one. In general, for plants, so not only succulents, it is the ideal solution (as well as the most natural, in all senses). It is not only its intrinsic characteristics that make rainwater the best: it is also the type of watering determined by rain that contributes to the final result. Exposed to rain, the plants receive water in variable but constant quantity, drop by drop for a time that can go from a few minutes (in the case of summer showers) to a few hours. Not only that: the water is enriched with oxygen and also this has a beneficial effect on the plants. To focuses it is enough to keep two identical plants and leave one to the rain, keeping the other to shelter and wetting it with tap-water. After a few weeks, the differences between the two plants will be evident: the one quenched by the rain will be more luxuriant, cleaner, more vital. More healthy, in short.

For those who have a greenhouse but can not collect rainwater, because it needs a peculiar system, or for those who grow on balconies or terraces, the alternative to rain is water for domestic use. In the countryside, as in my case, there is well water, generally quite calcareous and therefore, in the long run, less good for plants. One solution, in these cases, is to fill cans or barrels with well or tank water and let it decant for at least 24 hours, adding citric acid or specific products (available on the market) capable of acidifying it and bringing its pH between 6 and 6,5. Then, leaving the water decant for a day, the chlorine can evaporate almost completely, as well as any impurities or heavy elements can settle on the bottom of the container.

Generally, for my plants in the greenhouse, I do this: the day before watering, I prepare the water to use, leaving it in two tanks of 80 litres. Therefore, since in the countryside the water is ordinarily calcareous, I add the right amount of acidifier to sweeten it. After 24 hours, I water the plants using a pump connected to the pipe that draws water from the vessels.

I keep outdoor a very lot of plants (from three-year-old cacti obtained by seedling to adult Cactaceae, but also Agave and Aloe) from the end of March to the end of October. Needless to say, these get all the water the sky sends down. If, as happened during the last summers, it does not rain for weeks, I use the well water left to decant. On more than one occasion, however, the outdoor plants have been raining for several days. None plants died because, thank the air and the wind, the soil dries very quickly.

How to water

I water from above, wetting the plants and the soil. Since I use meagre or peat-free substrates, in many cases mainly mineral, I bathe abundantly and in more coats, until I submerge the smaller plants creating a layer of water on the surface. Not only that: usually I do at least two or three coats with the reed of water on each pallet until I see the water dripping abundantly from the drain holes of the vessels. With the soil I use, within a day (if the temperature is hot) the surface of each pot will be dry; in four or five days all the soil will be dry to the depth (also because succulents, in the vegetative season, drink quickly and with greed).

If clay field soil is used in the substrates, the watering must be abundant. It is necessary to revise several times on the plant because the clay, when dry, tends to be waterproof. It is crucial to insist, in short, that water can penetrate deep and well wet the bread of the earth. It is not by chance that this is how it happens in nature, with the rain insistently falling for hours until it penetrates the surface of the fields. In the past, at the first watering after the dry winter, I used to see that some plants did not swell, despite watering that I thought abundant. They were mostly plants in clay and inerts. After having realized that the clay was too dry and compact, I started to wet more frequently, but above all insisting more on each plant, I submerged the plants with water. Result? After a couple of days, they had fully recovered and had regained volume: the water had managed to penetrate in deep, and the Cactaceae had finally drunk enough.

Beware of other false myths, such as that about the delicate Ariocarpus, that people say it is almost resistant to water. Nothing is more wrong: in the vegetative season the Ariocarpus drink a lot, and it is only this mistaken belief that has led to thinking that these plants never grow. With abundant watering, the Ariocarpus speed up the growth (even if being Cactaceae, they are relatively slow in the development).

When to wet and how often

The answers to questions like when to wet and how often to water could be endless. As stated above, we must consider first the plants and their origin (for example, an Echinopsis and a Lithops have very different needs), then the factors of cultivation, starting from the area where we grow. About this topic, some conventions can be assumed. For most of the Cactaceae and of the non-caudiciform succulents (for instance, the Crassulas), the watering period matches the vegetative season. In North Italy, this is from the end of March to the end of September; in South Italy even October and part of November. I start watering at the end of March, if the days are hot enough, otherwise I wait for the beginning of April. I stop the watering in mid-September, even if it is still hot, to allow the plants to begin to lose fluids and to prepare for the winter.

Between the end of March and mid-September, I water with varying frequencies, approximately every 15 days, intensifying if necessary in the warmer months, when I can bathe every 8-10 days. Very important, after the dry winter, during which the plants tend to deflate (in some cases also remarkably) is to start gradually watering again. The first two or three waterings must be light, not as abundant as in June or July. In fact, the plants must start to drink little at a time because if they find water immediately available in large quantity they absorb it quickly with the risk of swelling so fast to break. It happened to me a few times. I had a Frailea, a Thelocactus and some Ferocactus that after the first two waterings have swollen immediately, with the result that the stem has split. The plants are not dead but taking a risk because the internal tissue if exposed, can be easily attacked by bacteria that then go to trigger rottenness (not to mention the aesthetic damage of a plant with a literally pierced coast).

As for the frequency of wetting, the old rule can be useful: in doubt, water only if the soil is well dry. We see it from the superficial layer: if pressing with the finger, we feel humid, better to wait. This is a basic rule based on common sense – it is difficult for a cactus to die of thirst, but it is easier that it can rot for an excess of water, especially if in very organic soil. Then the experience will tell us when to give water to our plants. To me, for example, it is enough to touch the stem or weigh the pot to understand if the plant is thirsty and if the soil is still wet or not.

I reserve special treatment for my Cactaceae seedlings of at least one year and for the few succulent plants that I have (Crassula, Echeveria etc.): for these, the frequency of watering is greater than the Cactaceae in general. Leaf plants obviously tend to disperse water more than cacti, while the seedlings have the desire to grow and to support them are wetted more frequently than adult plants.

In August, usually, I suspend watering for cacti (not for seedlings and not for succulents in general). The Cactaceae, in the hotter months, tend to go in estivation, that is slow the growth and in some cases block it to restart as soon as the temperatures return to tolerable levels (in August in my open greenhouse the temperature can exceed 40 degrees). For the plants I keep outside in the vegetative season, as I wrote above, I leave it to nature. They can take water for days and days or stay whole weeks in the dry. If the drought extends, I provide with extra watering.

Regarding the times in which it is better to wet the plants, it is better to do it early in the morning, before the sun begins to raise the temperatures, or in the late afternoon. Even better in the evening, so the plants will have all the night – basically with lower temperatures than the day – for absorbing the water before it can evaporate on the surface of the pot.

It is essential do not water immediately after a repotting: the roots may have been damaged during the operation; it is good to wait at least ten days before wetting the soil, to allow the rooting apparatus to heal its wounds and avoid the risk of rot that wet soil could trigger.

Nebulization

Some recommend spraying the succulents often. I do not find it useful. I did it for years, at first, then I saw that the plants had no benefit at all. Even to nebulize them abundantly, in a few minutes they completely dry and I do not see the point in wasting time to wet the cactus and succulent stem. The only useful nebulizing, in my opinion, is that with water added with fungicides or acaricides. Over the years, since I have strengthened the plants with the cultivation regime and the soil I use, I have reduced these treatments a lot. Usually, I give the copper once in spring and once in autumn, before dry, and an acaricide a few times during the growing season.

Fertilization (or “manuring”)

I discuss fertilization (also written “fertilisation”) in a specific post, at this specific link. Here it is enough to recall that cacti and succulents must be fertilized with specific products with low nitrogen content and not generic, for example for ornamental plants or for the vegetable garden. The fertilizers for succulents are based on nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), to which various micro-nutrients are added. For succulents, in general, it is good that the ratio between the three main elements, N-P-K, is in the order of 5-15-30 (another basic formulation used is 1 of nitrogen, 2 of phosphorus and 4 of potassium). Fertilizers, in good substance, little nitrogenous and with high percentages of phosphorus and potassium.

Watering and repotting

Caution: freshly repotted succulents should never be watered. It is good to wait at least ten days from repotting before wetting the soil. The repotted plants may be nebulized so that the topsoil can get settled the surface, especially in the cases of habitat reconstruction, but for wetting the earth in-depth is better not to hurry.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE SITE  – If you liked this article, subscribe to the site to have access to all the contents for one year or three months depending on the formula you choose. Here you will find terms and conditions.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE NEWSLETTER  – If you want to receive the free newsletter every time new content is published (even if you have not subscribed to the site), fill in the fields at this link!

My video

Related articles

When and how fertilize cacti to have aboundant blooms
Substrates: which is the best soil for cacti and succulent plants?
Diseases and pests of cacti and succulents: how to recognize them
How to make cacti and succulents bloom: what you need to know

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo How often and how much to water cactus (cacti) and succulent plants and which water to use proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.