Spring is the season of recovery for all plants, and succulents are no exception. Many species are already in full bloom, such as Stenocactus, Strombocactus, many Turbinicarpus and several Mammillaria. Be careful, however, there is a difference between flowering and vegetative growth: a plant can flower even if it has not fully resumed vegetating. Simply, this is its flowering period and the plant respects it even if it is still coming out of the winter “dormancy” state. As regards temperatures, obviously there is a big difference based on the area in which it is grown, so in some regions of the South the night-time minimums can already be above 10 degrees, while in the North we still have relatively low values, around 2 or 3 degrees. This factor is fundamental to understanding whether we can move our plants outside or not. Equally important is the time to resume watering. Can we start watering cacti and succulents these days or is it better to wait a little longer? Finally: with the start of the summer, is it necessary to carry out some treatments with plant protection products or can this practice be avoided?

Let’s see everything in detail in the following article, so as to move correctly and avoid problems or rot damaging the plants. (…)

Succulent plants and springtime: introduction

After a winter spent in vegetative stasis, almost all cacti and succulents start growing again by mid-March. This can be seen above all by the production of new thorns and the resumption of growth of the stem. Flowers, in this context, are irrelevant: plants that flower in spring do so regardless of the vegetative growth. There are several species of Mammillaria, just to give an example, that flower in February, as well as some Ancistrocactus. This therefore does not mean that the plant has started to vegetate again and that we can resume watering. The vegetative growth, essentially, consists in the actual “awakening” of the plant, which begins to grow again, activate the root system and produce new thorns. So let’s not trust the flowers to start watering the cacti again: the risk of them rotting, if the roots are not yet active and the temperatures are still low, is very high!

Check the succulent plants carefully to check their health

A first good practice to implement in spring is certainly to check the plants carefully to check that there are no rot or parasites present. The risk of rot starting immediately after winter is quite high, because mold and bacteria become active as temperatures rise. It is therefore important to examine all the plants to ensure that there are no suspicious stains on the stem. In case of spots or full-blown rot, it is essential to isolate the specimen and treat it (if it is not too late) with a broad-spectrum fungicide. Copper oxychloride can be useful but is not always curative. In the case of fusarium, for example, there is very little to do other than remove the rotten part, brush the wound with powdered copper oxychloride and sulfur and keep the specimen in the air as much as possible and away from other plants. Except for serious rot, a few passes with Neem oil are useful: it is a natural product that offers good protection to plants.

Spots and rot on cacti: what to do.

Temperatures: moving cacti and succulent plants outside?

Temperatures are a fundamental element to consider during this period. Minimums and maximums can vary considerably depending on the geographical area in which it is grown and the weather is not yet completely settled. Given this, if the night-time minimum temperatures do not fall below 3-4 celsius degrees, cacti and succulents can be brought outside, with the exception of epiphytes and genera such as Melocactus and Discocactus, which require minimum temperatures not lower than 10-12 degrees . Those who have left their plants to overwinter outdoors can simply remove the layers of non-woven fabric, or open greenhouses and greenhouses as much as possible. At this stage, temperature changes between day and night can only be good for the plants and the important thing is that cacti and succulents are sheltered from the rain. For the rest, air is essential to avoid mold or fungi, therefore the plants should be placed outside, taking care not to move them into full sun if they have been kept in environments with little light during the winter: in fact it is It is necessary for cacti and succulents to gradually get used to intense light.

The spring and watering: when is the right time?

Seeing the plants shriveled, deflated or simply witnessing sunny days, the temptation to water is strong. These days, however, it is good to restrain yourself and wait a little longer before watering the cacti and succulents. The roots may not yet be active and wetting the soil, especially if the night-time lows are still relatively low, risks triggering rot. A little patience, therefore, and let’s wait a few more days before watering. From the end of March and the beginning of April it will be possible to give a first pass of water. A warning: the first two waterings – spaced at least 20 days apart – must be light. An excess of water, if the plant is already in full vegetation, can cause the stem to split because cacti are very greedy and quickly absorb all the water they have available in a short time.

Here you will find the section with articles dedicated to watering succulents.

Fertilize succulents or wait a few more weeks?

Even for fertilizations it is best to wait. Fertilizing now involves wetting the soil, exposing the plant to risk of rot. Furthermore, it is good practice to add the fertilizer to the water only after having carried out a couple of waterings with water only. In this way the plants are completely reactivated and when we add the fertilizer they will be ready to absorb it and use it according to their needs. Generally speaking, it can be said that it is advisable to wait until at least mid-April for fertilization. Pay attention to the type of fertilizer: specific fertilizers with a low nitrogen content and a high phosphorus and potassium content must be used with succulents.

Here you will find an article entirely dedicated to fertilization.

The spring and treatments: are they really necessary?

Finally, treatments with pesticides in spring. Personally, I stopped using chemical products for years, with the exception of copper oxychloride, which should be given mostly in autumn and, sporadically, during winter. In the summer, if the plants are still in stasis, a spray of copper oxychloride distributed by nebulization can be useful for preventive purposes. If the plants are healthy, a preventive treatment (at a distance from the treatment with copper oxychloride) with Neem oil, a natural product capable of protecting the plants from possible parasites, will be sufficient. Treatments should be carried out in the early hours of the morning or in the evening, never when the plants are exposed to the sun.

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Correlated articles

• How to grow cacti: the handbook
• The section dedicated to soils
• Most frequent questions and doubts
• All cultivation cards in pdf

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L'articolo Spring is here, what to do with cacti and succulents? All out or is it better to wait? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Full sun? But what do you want to know, the window on the landing is enough! Substrate? I buy it ready at the supermarket, it’s perfect. The pots? The smaller the better: never leave more than half a centimeter between the plant and the edge of the pot… And so on, by dint of amenities, false beliefs, hearsay phrases that rapidly becomes dogma because… because it was said by that guy on Facebook and it’s immediately clear that he’s someone who knows about it because his videos has the right lights and Kubrick seems to have done the editing for him. Joking aside, how much nonsense do we still have to hear today about the cultivation of cacti? How many improvised “influencers” ride the crest of social media driven by the Mistral of likes (yes, likes, which in jargon are called “the metrics of vanity”…) and, supported by legions of followers and big thumbs up, they deliver lessons and conferences winking from the monitors, revealing “5 fantastic tricks you don’t know about cacti” or “how to go from seed to flowering plant in 35 seconds”. Or, with an attitude halfway between the conspiratorial and the revealer of esoteric secrets, they promise to teach you everything, absolutely everything about the cultivation of these splendid plants. Then, perhaps, you dig a little and discover that the influencer on duty has been growing cacti for 2 or 3 years – a gift from grandmother -, keeps them next to the PC or television (“you know, they absorb magnetic rays”), he can’t distinguish a Rebutia from a Begonia and has never bothered to leaf through any book on cacti and succulents. There are also influencers for plants, right? No. There are likeable and well-prepared characters, there are pretty faces who know something, but there is also a lot of “fluff” (forgive the old reporter’s term). So much wrong information, so much confusion and so much unpreparedness.

So, without any desire to offer you “The Word” with this article, here is a handbook, a list of ten things you need to know (or you should already know!) if you really want to cultivate your cacti in the best possible way. Without tricks or deceptions: here we are at the fundamentals, come on. But without these you go nowhere. And I am convinced that even those who, scrolling through the 10 points will say “ah yes, I know” ten times, will find in this handbook a useful tool for reviewing, asking themselves a few more questions and pushing themselves to improve. And rest assured, what follows does not come from the web, but from 30 years of experience in the field, of experiments and failures, from discussions with growers and scholars far more expert than me and from reading a few dozen manuals in Italian, English, French, Spanish (and also German, although in that case, I confess, I limited myself to photographs and captions, not knowing the Teutonic language!) (…)

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L'articolo How to grow cactus: the handbook with the 10 things you absolutely need to know to avoid mistakes proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In the following article we look in detail at what we have to do in the run-up to summer to best prepare cacti and succulents and avoid problems. (…)

Aestivation

The slowing down of vegetation in cacti is called “aestivation“: basically in the middle months of summer many plants slow down or stop their activity, just “waiting” for the great heat to pass. It will therefore be a good idea to observe them well and try to tell from both the new spines and the stem whether they are in full growth or not, and adjust watering accordingly. Many succulent plants and many cacti, such as Agave and Euphorbias, Gymnocalycium and Echinopsis, have limited aestivation. For these, therefore, a watering regime appropriate to the rate at which the soil dries out can be maintained, watering as often as once every 7 to 10 days. The area in which you are growing succulents is also decisive: in North Euorpe, let’s say, you still should not overdo the watering, given the high ambient humidity rates, while in the South of Europe you can even go so far as to water almost every day if necessary.

A more in-depth discussion on watering can be found here.

Wanting to make an initial broad distinction, it is important consider that Chilean plants, such as Neoporteria (Eriosyce) and Copiapoa, from mid-June to the end of August stop or slow down their vegetation considerably. For these genera we can’t really talk about aestivation, but watering should be suspended altogether during this period, because there is a risk that, with the plant stopped and unable to absorb water, the soil will remain wet for a long time, triggering rot. Plants such as Echinocactus polycephalus, Sclerocactus and Pediocactus also slow down their vegetation significantly in summer and, like Copiapoa and Neopoerteria, should be kept dry and, if possible, in slightly shaded areas so as to contain the heat. Most cacti, on the other hand, simply go into aestivation in August, a month during which I use to suspend watering altogether. A special attention should be paid to the leafy succulents, such as Echeveria, Crassula, etc.: for these species it will be enough to adjust based on direct observation. If the leaves begin to shrivel and lose turgidity, you will be able to water. Otherwise, better to wait.

Fertilization

Also during the warm months, it’s better to avoid fertilization: plants “work” less and absorb less water, and fertilization may prove unnecessary or even harmful.

When and how fertilize cacti and succulent plants.

Pests and adversities

In July and August, with the great heat, conditions are created for the proliferation of the red spider mite, one of the main pests of succulents. Hot and dry weather are the factors that favor the presence of this pest, which attacks the tender parts of the plants’ stems. You can then resort to some spraying (which does not go to wet the soil, but only the aerial part of the plant) and a few of preventive treatments with specific products.

An article on pests and diseases of succulents can be found here.

Without a doubt, the best thing to do during the warm months is to encourage maximum air circulation. This obviously applies to those growing in greenhouses or partially sheltered areas: outside, plants enjoy normal air recirculation and are therefore able to tolerate the intense July and August sun and high temperatures. On the contrary, plants grown in greenhouses (even if open) have less air available and are exposed to temperatures that can easily exceed 40 degrees. There are many solutions: a shade can be placed on the roof of the greenhouse to contain the insolation, or all moving parts of the structure can be opened to the maximum. Finally, thermostat-controlled fans (or a timer) can be used for improving indoor air recirculation.

Seedlings

A separate discussion must be reserved for sowings: seedlings born in spring are not yet able to withstand long periods of drought, but they should be sufficiently developed by now to tolerate the wet/dry alternation. They can therefore also be watered during the summer, but allow the soil to dry out almost completely between waterings. Leaving seedlings completely dry for a month can drastically slow their vegetation or even lead to their death. Seedlings one or more years old, on the other hand, are better able to withstand dryness. For these, as for adult plants, the golden rule is observation: if the plants are swollen and turgid, they can be left to dry out during the hottest weeks. If they tend to deflate excessively you can provide for a focused watering. Remember that aestivation can also affect young plants!

Seasonal care in detail

If you want the complete picture of seasonal care, with what needs to be done in spring and autumn to best care for cacti and succulents, you can check out this article or this one.

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Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Summer is coming: seasonal care for cacti and succulents, watering and aestivation proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Light is fundamental for every living being, starting with plants. This is obvious, but we cannot ignore it if we want to grow cacti and succulent plants in general. Plants, moreover, that often need many hours of light per day; in some cases direct or non-filtered light, in others not straight but equally intense daylight. In fact, there are succulent plants that, if placed in full sun, slow down growth, burn and even die. On the contrary, many succulent plants and many cacti, if they do not receive the right amount of direct light, will have stunted growth, with weak thorns and elongated stems.

In this article, we see what we need to know about the right exposure of cacti and succulent plants in general. Also, at the end of this article, you find a table summarizing the type of exposure needed by the main families of succulents. (…)

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L'articolo How much light do cactus need to grow well? The importance of sun and air and a summary table proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.