We see them in detail in the following article (…).

Premise

By the time of June, two first dangers for succulent plants should have passed by now, if we have done everything correctly (and regardless of the fact that this spring has been quite anomalous). I am referring to the danger of cracks on the cacti stems and that of burns following a late or “hasty” exposure. Once the cacti have resumed vegetating after the winter stasis, in fact, it may happen that following the first waterings (if too abundant or too close together) the stem “splits”. In this period of the year, even in the case of a wet and cold spring like the latter, cacti and succulents should have already received at least two or three waterings and the stems of the plants should have swollen. If the recovery has taken place gradually and the plants have returned swollen, the risk of stem splitting for this year can be said to have been archived.

In some ways similar speech in terms of exposure: to date all the plants should have been in their ideal location for some time now, where they will remain until autumn. In other words, those who kept cacti and succulents in the basement, entrance halls or garages should have moved the plants to full light (or half light depending on the genre) by now, under penalty of etiolation. Abruptly moving the plants now, with the June sun starting to get stronger, can expose the plants to the risk of severe burns on the stems. Whether the spring is cool or not, whether it is humid or not, the plants must be gradually accustomed to intense sun or direct sun and this must be done between the end of March and the beginning of April. In this way cacti and succulents are able to get used to direct sunlight very gradually, strengthening the epidermis well before the summer sun hits them. If you haven’t moved your plants yet, do it immediately but repair them with shading nets (especially during the hottest hours of the day), otherwise the first burns will begin to appear in the coming weeks!

Maximum air

Having exhausted the necessary premises, which are nothing if not common practices in the correct cultivation of cacti and succulents in general, we recall that the main element of cultivation, at this point, is trivially… the air. Trivially, because this element is often underestimated, or even not considered at all, taking it for granted. The air, on the other hand, is the main factor for the healthy growth of any plant and in this season, with temperatures starting to rise significantly (on sunny days in a completely open greenhouse it can easily exceed 40 degrees Celsius already in June, let alone August), the plants need as much air circulation as possible.

Anyone who cultivates in a very large professional greenhouse will have to open the structure as much as possible, raising the side curtains and possibly leaving the front and rear doors open. Those who cultivate on balconies and terraces should have no problems whatsoever, while those who cultivate in those small greenhouses covered with a transparent cloth must do nothing but… get rid of the greenhouses, remove all the plants from there and disassemble the greenhouses, which can return comfortable, at best, in winter (although they are still not the best due to the limited air circulation they allow). In this period, if we keep the plants in this type of structure, even by raising the openings in the transparent sheet to the maximum, we will still not be able to ensure the plants the air they need, and with high temperatures and humidity the risk of “boiling” plants or creating the ideal environment for the formation of molds and fungi is very high. Therefore, if you haven’t already done so, remove the greenhouses (which can be simply used as shelves) and, since the plants will not be sufficiently accustomed to the intense sun, shield them with a not too light shading net.

The importance of air and light for succulents plants.

Watering and aestivation

In this period, even if the temperatures are not yet very high this year, it is advisable to increase the frequency of irrigation. If the days are sunny and the weather does not predict rain for the following days, it can be watered once a week. The pace can also be increased to two waterings per week for some species or succulent leafy plants if slight wrinkling is noted. As always, the basic rule is to water only when the substrate appears dry and, if in doubt, postpone it. Beware of the hot months, i.e. July and August, when the difference between the maximum and minimum night-time temperatures is minimal: in conditions of persistent heat, many cacti and many succulents can go into aestivation, slowing down or blocking their growth. In these periods it is better not to water at all, since the plants do not absorb water and the soil would remain moist for too long, with the risk of root rot being triggered.
A few more waterings will have to be reserved for very young plants and seedlings, which are not yet able to tolerate long periods of drought in hot conditions and, at the same time, “push” more than adult specimens.

On the phenomenon of aestivation you will find a specific article at this link.

Fertilization and treatments

In June it is still possible to fertilize succulents. A fertilization is enough, assuming that a first fertilization was given in May or April. If the plants have been repotted a few months ago it will not be necessary to add fertilizer to the water, but if we are dealing with specimens that have lived in the same soil for years, an extra fertilization can be useful to replenish the nutrients once present in the substrate. Pay attention to the product (whether it is in powder or liquid form, it matters little), which must be specific for succulent plants and therefore low in nitrogen and rich in phosphorus and potassium, in addition to microelements. During the real summer, that is in the months of July and August, the fertilizations must instead be suspended.

As for treatments, for years I have minimized the use of pesticides and I only use copper oxychloride and Neem oil. The first is a fungicide which should be administered by nebulization only in the months in which the plants are not in vegetation (in this period it should therefore be avoided). The second is a natural product, with low environmental impact, against parasites, mites and with a modest fungicidal function. Neem oil can be administered, always by nebulization, even in this period, with the foresight to act only when the sun has gone down or early in the morning, before direct light reaches the plants. Targeted fungicides and insecticides can be used in specific cases, for example in the event of an attack by the cochineal or rot that affects several plants. In these cases it is always important to isolate sick specimens from healthy ones and carry out targeted treatments every two weeks.

Here you will find a detailed article on the main adversities of succulents, with general indications on how to intervene.

Always remember that the best weapon against pests and diseases of succulents is correct cultivation, in particular a spartan cultivation, with lots of light, lots of air, little fertilization and little fertilizing.

To repot or not to repot?

In this case there is no definitive answer: during the summer it is possible to repot. Personally I prefer to avoid – except in cases in which the intervention cannot be deferred as the plant is in evident state of suffering and has probably lost its roots – and to postpone repotting until the end of winter and spring. With new purchases, especially if the plants are in peat, repotting is instead recommended at any time of the year: it is better to stress the plant a little rather than leave it in an unsuitable substrate, running the risk of triggering rot. As always, if you repot and clean or shorten the roots, it is important to leave the flared plant in a shady place for at least ten days before repotting. After repotting, wait another week or two before watering, so as to give the roots time to heal effectively. This precaution is especially important in spring and summer, when the plants are growing and are watered regularly: obviously in winter the problem does not arise, since many succulents and almost all cacti must be kept in dry soil.

Other practices

Otherwise, summer is a relatively quiet time for the cactus and succulent grower. It is sufficient to observe the specimens and understand whether they are slowing down their growth (aestivation) or not and adjust accordingly with watering. Finally, a little maintenance certainly doesn’t hurt: you can cut the now dry floral stems in the case of plants such as Aloe, Echeveria, Crassulaceae, etc., just as it is a good thing to remove the dried flowers of the cacti, which with watering they soak in water and can feed molds and fungi.

Seasonal cures in detail

If you want a complete picture of seasonal care, with everything you need to do in spring, summer, autumn and winter to take care of cacti and succulents in the best possible way, you can consult this summary article.

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Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents: when and how
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Towards summer: useful tips for taking care of cacti and succulents and avoiding nasty surprises proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In the following article we look in detail at what we have to do in the run-up to summer to best prepare cacti and succulents and avoid problems. (…)

Aestivation

The slowing down of vegetation in cacti is called “aestivation“: basically in the middle months of summer many plants slow down or stop their activity, just “waiting” for the great heat to pass. It will therefore be a good idea to observe them well and try to tell from both the new spines and the stem whether they are in full growth or not, and adjust watering accordingly. Many succulent plants and many cacti, such as Agave and Euphorbias, Gymnocalycium and Echinopsis, have limited aestivation. For these, therefore, a watering regime appropriate to the rate at which the soil dries out can be maintained, watering as often as once every 7 to 10 days. The area in which you are growing succulents is also decisive: in North Euorpe, let’s say, you still should not overdo the watering, given the high ambient humidity rates, while in the South of Europe you can even go so far as to water almost every day if necessary.

A more in-depth discussion on watering can be found here.

Wanting to make an initial broad distinction, it is important consider that Chilean plants, such as Neoporteria (Eriosyce) and Copiapoa, from mid-June to the end of August stop or slow down their vegetation considerably. For these genera we can’t really talk about aestivation, but watering should be suspended altogether during this period, because there is a risk that, with the plant stopped and unable to absorb water, the soil will remain wet for a long time, triggering rot. Plants such as Echinocactus polycephalus, Sclerocactus and Pediocactus also slow down their vegetation significantly in summer and, like Copiapoa and Neopoerteria, should be kept dry and, if possible, in slightly shaded areas so as to contain the heat. Most cacti, on the other hand, simply go into aestivation in August, a month during which I use to suspend watering altogether. A special attention should be paid to the leafy succulents, such as Echeveria, Crassula, etc.: for these species it will be enough to adjust based on direct observation. If the leaves begin to shrivel and lose turgidity, you will be able to water. Otherwise, better to wait.

Fertilization

Also during the warm months, it’s better to avoid fertilization: plants “work” less and absorb less water, and fertilization may prove unnecessary or even harmful.

When and how fertilize cacti and succulent plants.

Pests and adversities

In July and August, with the great heat, conditions are created for the proliferation of the red spider mite, one of the main pests of succulents. Hot and dry weather are the factors that favor the presence of this pest, which attacks the tender parts of the plants’ stems. You can then resort to some spraying (which does not go to wet the soil, but only the aerial part of the plant) and a few of preventive treatments with specific products.

An article on pests and diseases of succulents can be found here.

Without a doubt, the best thing to do during the warm months is to encourage maximum air circulation. This obviously applies to those growing in greenhouses or partially sheltered areas: outside, plants enjoy normal air recirculation and are therefore able to tolerate the intense July and August sun and high temperatures. On the contrary, plants grown in greenhouses (even if open) have less air available and are exposed to temperatures that can easily exceed 40 degrees. There are many solutions: a shade can be placed on the roof of the greenhouse to contain the insolation, or all moving parts of the structure can be opened to the maximum. Finally, thermostat-controlled fans (or a timer) can be used for improving indoor air recirculation.

Seedlings

A separate discussion must be reserved for sowings: seedlings born in spring are not yet able to withstand long periods of drought, but they should be sufficiently developed by now to tolerate the wet/dry alternation. They can therefore also be watered during the summer, but allow the soil to dry out almost completely between waterings. Leaving seedlings completely dry for a month can drastically slow their vegetation or even lead to their death. Seedlings one or more years old, on the other hand, are better able to withstand dryness. For these, as for adult plants, the golden rule is observation: if the plants are swollen and turgid, they can be left to dry out during the hottest weeks. If they tend to deflate excessively you can provide for a focused watering. Remember that aestivation can also affect young plants!

Seasonal care in detail

If you want the complete picture of seasonal care, with what needs to be done in spring and autumn to best care for cacti and succulents, you can check out this article or this one.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE SITE  – If you liked this article, subscribe to the site to have access to all the contents for one year or three months depending on the formula you choose. Here you will find terms and conditions.

 SUBSCRIBE TO THE NEWSLETTER  – If you want to receive the free newsletter every time new content is published (even if you have not subscribed to the site), fill in the fields at this link!

Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Summer is coming: seasonal care for cacti and succulents, watering and aestivation proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.