In cacti as well as in many other botanical families, grafting is a common practice, usually adopted to grow delicate plants more easily and to speed up the growth rates of the plants themselves. In short, it consists of combining a delicate plant with a robust plant, which will provide the former with nourishment and encourage its growth.

Those who follow this site know well that the “philosophy” underlying the cultivation of cacti and succulents adopted by me is based on obtaining plants as similar as possible to those in the habitat. My approach to cultivation is essentially simple and spartan and is inspired by the so-called “wild” cultivation method, which precisely has the aim of obtaining cacti with a natural, lived-in appearance and, overall, as similar as possible to what plants have in nature. It is for this reason that it is not my habit to practice grafting cacti, which can certainly be a useful technique in many cases but which does not lead, from an aesthetic point of view, to obtaining specimens similar to those that grow in their habitat. This is not only due to the very fact that one plant grows grafted onto another, but also due to the fact that grafted plants tend over time to take on very different characteristics from those of plants grown naturally. In fact, grafted plants can have much more swollen stems, sometimes deformed compared to the norm and even the thorns can grow differently.

However, given the high number of growers who practice grafting (also useful for speeding up the growth of cacti and making them flower so as to be able to pollinate them to have seeds with which to reproduce them) or who do not disdain the cultivation of grafted plants and considered many questions that they reached me over time via email, here, for completeness, is an article that deals with this practice and explains how to graft cacti (…)

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L'articolo Grafting cactus: when a succulent plant can be grafted and what is the correct procedure to follow proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

These cacti are easily recognizable by the splendid crown blooms around the apical part of the stem, which can be small or medium in size. These are cacti suitable for expert growers as well as novice growers. Some species, in fact, require a fair amount of experience (among these, Mammillaria luethyi, Mammillaria pectinifera, Mammillaria solisoides, Mammillaria lasiacantha, Mammillaria senilis, Mammillaria herrerae); other species are suitable for anyone (among these, Mammillaria elongata, Mammillaria bombycina, Mammillaria prolifera, Mammillaria polythele, Mammillaria uncinata, Mammillaria bocasana, Mammillaria perbella, Mammillaria mystax). The stems can appear globose, often clustered, very harmonious and in some cases covered with thick hair or very white thorns. (…)

The origin of Mammillaria: where these cacti grow

As regards distribution, Mammillaria are native to the southwestern area of the United States and Mexico, where they grow in many states such as Tamaulipas, Hidalgo, Chiapas, Colima, Puebla, Oaxaca, Baja California, San Luis Potosí, Durango . Some species can also be found in the Caribbean area, in Central America and in some regions in the north of South America (such as Colombia and Venezuela). The range of origin of this genus is therefore very vast and this is also why the Mammillaria have been able to evolve in different ways, giving rise to a large number of species and subspecies.

The main characteristic of the entire genus, regardless of the shape of the specimen, is the presence of tubercles, small “cones” (similar to breasts, hence the name of the genus, from the latin term “mammilla”) which characterize the stem and which can be more or less marked depending on the species. The areoles and spines form at the apex of the tubercles. Some Mammillaria produce a latex that may resemble that contained in Euphorbia. By virtue of this, the distinction between Mammillaria Galactochylus (which contain latex) and Mammillaria Hydrochylus (which does not contain latex) was once in use.

The forms and species of Mammillaria

The thorns can take on many shapes and in some species they are hidden by thick white hair (Mammillaria hahniana). You can have short and pointed spines, long and twisted spines (Mammillaria camptotricha), hooked spines (Mammillaria uncinata, M. bombycina, M. perezdelarosae), as well as “combed” spines (Mammillaria pectinifera) and robust and long spines (Mammillaria compressa, Mammillaria magnimamma). Many species, in particular those traced back to the so-called lasiacantha group, have pure white thorns that completely cover the stem and which can turn gray with age. Among the white-spined species, Mammillaria perbella, M. candida, M. magallanii, M. lasiacantha, M. lenti, M. klissingiana, M. humboldtii, M. albiflora, M. herrerae, M. plumosa deserve mention.

How Mammillaria are grown

As regards cultivation, in general most of the species are also suitable for novice growers, since they are robust cacti and do not require any particular precautions compared to most cacti. Some species, however, can prove particularly challenging, to the point that their cultivation is recommended for those who have some experience with succulents. The particular sensitivity to water stagnation or the presence of taproot, which requires soils that are poor from an organic point of view and rich in aggregates and well-spaced watering.

Exposure and minimum temperatures

Regarding exposure, all Mammillaria want a lot of light for at least 6 hours a day, but only those whose stem is entirely covered with thorns (usually white ones) can stay in direct sun for many hours, as long as they are gradually accustomed to it starting from the end of March.

Mammillaria tolerate the cold well, as long as the soil is dry from the end of September.

Here you will find a PDF sheet entirely dedicated to the Mammillaria genus.

The English association The Mammillaria Society is dedicated to this type of cactus: anyone interested can take a look at their website at this link.

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Photos of some species of Mammillaria

Correlated articles

• How to grow cacti: the handbook
• The section dedicated to soils
• Most frequent questions and doubts
• All cultivation cards in pdf

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L'articolo Mammillaria, a genus of cactus that is essential in any self-respecting succulent collection proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Without dwelling too much on the broad field of plant classification (here, if you want, you will find an article dedicated to this topic) and taking it for granted that the term “succulent plants” refers both to cacti and to many other succulent botanical families whose specimens have a different appearance from any other cactus, we are addressing a very “heartfelt” topic among novice growers. Even the grower who boasts a good knowledge of a given family, however, may find the following article useful, which recommends succulent plants (belonging to various botanical families) that are less demanding, more robust and simple to grow and therefore more suitable for those who are only now approaching the world of succulents. (…)

Premise

With a minimum of initial documentation and experience it is possible to grow all succulents without particular difficulties. Striking down to the essentials, the main cultivation elements to take into consideration are the substrates, watering, exposure and temperatures. In many cases these elements may be common to different types of succulents, for example the substrates, which for succulents must always be very draining, rich in inert materials and able to dry quickly. Other cultivation factors, however, can vary enormously from family to family but also from genus to genus. Some examples: cacti tolerate the cold well, while succulents originating from Madagascar or some African areas (e.g. Adenium, Uncarina, Pachypodium) cannot resist temperatures below 15-16 Celsius degrees. In the same Cactaceae family we find genera that are very resistant to cold (Echinopsis, Pediocactus, Opuntia) and genera that do not tolerate low temperatures (epiphytic cacti such as Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Rhipsalis or Melocactus and Discocactus).

This is why, for those who are only now approaching the cultivation of succulents, it is important to know which plants to start with in order to accumulate experience and best cultivate the newly purchased plants. The discussion, as mentioned, applies as much to cacti as to all other succulent families, since an enthusiast can be an expert in cacti and approach other families for the first time, such as Crassulaceae, Aizoaceae, Apocynaceae, Euphorbiaceae, etc.

Cactus

Let’s start with cacti. The first genera recommended to those who have no experience with these plants are undoubtedly Echinopsis, Gymnocalycium, Rebutia, Parodia (=Notocactus), Opuntia, Ferocactus. Be careful, there are many other cacti that are easy to grow but if you have to suggest some kind, you can’t go wrong with these. These are genera that group together very robust species, with few demands, capable of tolerating many cultivation errors and at the same time easily giving abundant and splendid blooms.

Attention: in some cases by clicking on the genus you will be directed to the downloadable PDF cultivation sheet of that same genus: a useful and detailed tool (4 pages) to deepen your knowledge of those plants.

Echinopsis are very common plants, extremely robust and able to tolerate the cold very well. They are therefore ideal for those who do not have a greenhouse or winter shelter (cold environment, necessary to encourage flowering). Echinopsis can spend the winter outdoors, often even in damp soil, although it is advisable to place them under a shed or porch. In spring and summer they produce showy flowers with a large corolla and long calyx.

Gymnocalycium are plants of South American origin (Argentina). They are easy to grow, tolerate the cold well (not frost: it is best that they do not go below 5 Celsius degrees and always in dry soil) and have growth rates that are not particularly slow. Furthermore, the genus brings together a large number of very different species and even just by cultivating Gymnocalycium it is possible to set up a very respectable collection. They flower in spring and summer already 4 or 5 years after sowing.

Other cacti recommended for those with little experience are the Rebutia. These are plants of South American origin, generally globose and with a tendency to cluster. Cultivation is very simple and their strong point are the flowers. In spring, these cacti produce an impressive quantity of medium-sized flowers of various colors depending on the species.

Parodia (once classified as Notocactus) are robust and very easy to grow cacti. They are satisfied with little care, have growth rates that are not excessively slow and produce beautiful blooms at the apex during the summer. Depending on the species, the flowers can be yellow, purple, red, orange. Even the thorns are variable from species to species and you can go from plants with slender and thin thorns to plants with very respectable thorns (P. maassii, P. buiningii).

Opuntias are bombproof cacti. They grow quickly, tolerate intense cold, multiply extremely easily by cutting and in many countries they can grow in the open ground, even exposed to bad weather during the winter. They can reach large dimensions (especially if grown in open ground) and produce beautiful flowers with colors ranging from pink to red, from yellow to orange.

Finally, for lovers of thorns, the first genus to recommend is Ferocactus. These are very robust cacti, always equipped with notable thorns, easy to grow, as long as they are guaranteed plenty of light, and grow relatively quickly. Some species flower relatively early (F. macrodiscus, F. schwarzii), others require at least a dozen years to produce the first flowers. Many species of Ferocactus can reach considerable dimensions even if grown in pots. However, those who have little experience with cacti should avoid starting with Ferocactus johnstonianus and Ferocactus lindsayi: two slightly more demanding and slow-growing species.

Crassulaceae

If you’re not particularly fond of thorns, the Crassulaceae family offers a wide variety of succulent genera and species. This family includes genera such as Aeonium, Adromischus, Crassula, Echeveria, Kalanchoe, Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum and the immortals Sedum and Sempervivum. Recommending a genus or a single species is almost superfluous: all Crassulaceae are easy to grow, very decorative, resistant and have good tolerance to cold. Having to indicate a couple of plants of this family, we can mention the very widespread Crassula ovata, called “jade tree”, with a small tree shape and oval, fleshy and bright green leaves. Another very interesting genus from an aesthetic point of view and easy to grow is that of Echeveria: plants of Mexican origin, very robust and with a characteristic rosette shape. Thanks to the high number of species and the many crossings carried out over the years, an infinite variety of Echeveria is available, with colored leaves that can range from blue to red.

Euphorbia

The Euphorbia family is very vast and includes very different genera. You can go from plants with a rounded stem without thorns, such as E. obesa, to plants with a columnar, curled shape, with leaves and thorns. Overall, the cultivation of Euphorbia is simple, but there is no shortage of species that require some experience. To begin with, E. resinifera, a very resistant and adaptable plant, E. enopla and E. obesa, beautiful and with an epidermis characterized by fascinating striations, can be indicated.

Agaves

It’s hard to go wrong with Agaves. These are very robust succulents, extremely adaptable and very easy to grow. In reality, they can almost be ignored completely: if placed in draining soil they are satisfied with rainwater, they resist intense sun and cold very well, to the point that in many regions they are grown in the open ground. They have rather rapid growth rates and many species can reach considerable sizes within a few years, particularly if kept in open ground.

Aloe

Even Aloes, in some ways similar to Agaves, are succulent plants suitable for those who are approaching the world of succulents and do not yet have much experience. Compared to Agaves, however, Aloes (succulent plants of African origin) tolerate intense cold less and should be kept at minimum temperatures no lower than 6-7 degrees. To begin with, you can start from the common but always elegant Aloe vera, a robust and relatively fast growing plant. Other very widespread and easy to grow species are Aloe arborescens and Aloe variegata, very easy to propagate and very generous with blooms.

Hoya

Finally, a succulent plant belonging to the Asclepiadaceae family. Hoya has seen its popularity grow among green enthusiasts in recent years. Aesthetically it has little in common with other succulents, but it is still a very decorative plant, also suitable for home cultivation and capable of producing beautiful cluster blooms. The star-shaped flowers are very particular, they have fleshy and smooth petals to the point that the Hoya themselves are also known as “porcelain flower” or “wax flower”. The plant produces long stems from which thick and fleshy leaves are formed, ranging in color from dark green to bright green, up to green streaked with yellow. Cultivation is simple and growth is relatively fast. Furthermore, Hoya also tolerate relatively low temperatures well, around 10 Celsius degrees.

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Correlated articles

• Recognising succulents plants and cactus
• How to grow succulents
• Most frequent questions and doubts
• All cultivation cards in pdf
• Distribution of cacti and succulents: maps

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L'articolo Succulent plants, a small guide for those approaching this world: the simplest species to grow proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

A practical handbook and an in-depth analysis on a much debated topic among those who grow succulent and/or cactus plants. Here’s what you’ll find by reading this article, designed specifically to help those who, with the first drops in temperatures, are starting to wonder where to place their succulents when the real cold arrives. Unless you have a greenhouse, perhaps equipped with a burner regulated by a thermostat, the question is in fact more than pertinent: during the winter it is better to keep the succulent plants outside (sheltered from the rain), or in a cool environment such as a landing, an internal staircase or even a garage? Or should we bring all the plants indoors? It is good to clarify immediately that the answer to these questions cannot be tranchant or “absolute”: obviously the correct winter location depends on many factors, starting from the area in which the plants are grown (North or South Italy? North or South Europe? Sea or high mountains?) to arrive at the type of plant (Cactaceae, succulent native to Africa or Madagascar? Sempervivum, Crassula, Euphorbia?). In short, the range of cases is very broad and as always there are no absolute rules. Luckily there are many fixed points and many precautions that should be respected to ensure that our succulents pass the winter securely and take advantage of the vegetative stasis to be able to flower again the following year.

The following article answers these questions, and you will also find an indication of the correct measures to be taken to ensure that cacti and succulents overwinter in the best possible way, have abundant blooms and, above all, you’ll find a practical handbook with an indication of the best location for cacti and succulents organized in alphabetical order, so as to facilitate the identification of the plant, understand in which minimum temperature range it can stay and where it can be placed (for example outside, on a landing, or directly inside the house). (…)

Premise

Succulent plants, whether Cactaceae or succulent plants belonging to other families such as Crassulaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Euphorbiaceae, etc., are not houseplants. They can certainly adapt to home cultivation, but they are plants that require light, air and which find their best location in outdoor environments such as windowsills, terraces, gardens or open greenhouses. This, of course, in the growing season which generally runs from March to October. The problem, and therefore the focus of this article, is winter, also because not everyone has the possibility of having a greenhouse or a garden. Given the slight drop in temperatures in recent days, questions are growing regarding how to behave in view of the cold weather in the coming months. As always, given that succulents are a varied world, made up of thousands of botanical species, unfortunately there is no single answer. However, there are parameters and references on which we can rely to give the correct answer to the question regarding wintering. These parameters are essentially the guides underlying the handbook that you will find at the end of the article.

Attention: this article is designed specifically for those who are not yet very familiar with these plants and need practical information and quick answers: for example, I have this succulent, where can I place it when it gets cold? For more specific insights and tables with the minimum temperatures that succulents can reach, it is possible to refer to two other articles published in the past. The first article, accompanied by a table with minimum temperatures, can be found at this link. The second article, which deals with seasonal care in detail, can be reached via this link.

Cacti

Let’s begin to distinguish between Cactaceae and succulent plants in general. The distinction is not intended to complicate the matter, but rather to simplify it to more quickly identify the correct solution to the initial question: where to place the plants during the winter? If you want to learn more about the difference between a cactus and any other succulent (for example Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops), you will find this article helpful.

Almost all cacti tolerate low temperatures very well. By low temperatures we mean minimums close to zero Celsius degrees or even well below this value. The cacti can therefore also be placed outside as long as watering is completely suspended at the end of September and they are positioned in a cold place sheltered from the rain. These are also the essential conditions for the plants to flower from the following spring. Therefore, a terrace, a balcony or a garden are fine. The important thing is that the cacti do not take on water until the end of March and the temperatures do not fall below zero Celsius degrees for several consecutive nights. In the event of frost or prolonged nights with temperatures well below zero, it is advisable to move the plants to a less cold place, even if only temporarily. A useful precaution is to cover the cacti with at least two or three layers of non-woven fabric: naturally it doesn’t work miracles, but two or three degrees more ensures them and, above all, allows transpiration, preventing condensation from forming on the plants or a humid environment is created, which is very dangerous for these plants as it favors the formation of stains on the stem, mold and fungi. On sunny winter days it is useful to raise the tissue even for a couple of hours to ensure the plants have a good exchange of air. It is best to avoid small greenhouses closed by thick sheets of transparent plastic, unless you always leave them open during daylight hours.

An exception to this basic rule are some genera of cacti, which do not tolerate the cold and should therefore be kept indoors or in environments where temperatures do not fall below certain limits (for example an internal staircase, a landing or even a garage). In these cases it is not necessary for the plants to receive a lot of light because if we suspend watering the cacti go into stasis and stop growing. This avoids the risk of “etiolation”, i.e. the so-called “spinning” which disfigures the plant from an aesthetic point of view. Attention: however, if we see excessive wrinkling of the stem or branches of these cacti, particularly if they are wintering indoors, it is advisable to water in moderation, at most once a month. The cacti that do not tolerate the cold are those originating from tropical areas and forests: firstly the epiphytic cacti (Schlumbergera, but also Epiphyllum, Rhipsalis, Aporocactus); secondly, two species native to Brazil and the Cuban archipelago: Melocactus and Discocactus. All these plants must winter at minimum temperatures no lower than 12/14 Celsius degrees (Melocactus and Discocactus require even higher minimum temperatures, between 16-18 Celsius degrees): you will find all the indications and the reference to the genus in the handbook accompanying this article.

Succulent

In theory, for succulents the matter becomes a little more complicated. This is because the Cactaceae is a single family that is divided into genera, species and subspecies. Succulents, on the other hand, are distributed in various families which are in turn divided into genera, species and subspecies. The number of these plants is therefore very high and providing specific indications plant by plant is almost impossible. However, even in this case it is sufficient to set a few “boundaries” to make the matter less complicated. The first element to consider is the place of origin of the plant: many succulents come from Africa or Madagascar (for example Euphorbia and Lithops). Clearly these plants require higher minimum temperatures and cultivation at home or in an environment where the minimum temperatures do not drop below 10/12 Celsius degrees is ideal. Other families or genera, for example Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, tolerate intense cold very well, in many cases even well below freezing.

Even with succulents it is advisable to suspend or at least reduce watering during the winter months, whether they are in a cold environment or in an apartment. During the winter months, in fact, almost all plants slow down in growth and frequent watering would only expose the specimen to the risk of root rot. Generally speaking, you can adjust as follows: from the end of October to the end of March, succulents should be placed in environments sheltered from rain and at temperatures between 7 and 16 Celsius degrees. There are many exceptions, such as the aforementioned Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, which we can keep outdoors even without protection and letting them take the rain (as long as it is not torrential and lasts for whole days). Other plants, such as some species of Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops (the so-called “stone plants”), tolerate the cold well but must be kept dry and at temperatures between 2 and 7 Celsius degrees. Other plants native to Africa or Madagascar, such as Adenium obesum (called “Desert Rose”), Pachypodium (the so-called “Madagascar Palm”), Uncarina and several species of Euphorbia require several degrees more because they do not tolerate the cold: all these plants will therefore have to be brought indoors from at least mid-October, unless autumn is mild and the minimum temperatures remain high even in this period, as happens in the regions of Southern Italy, Southern France or in Spain.

The handbook that completes this article will also be useful to orient you between the needs of the various succulents.

The handbook

The handbook (actually the handbooks, since one is dedicated to cacti and the other to succulents). It is intended to be a useful tool for the still inexperienced grower or for the expert grower who is approaching a particular genre for the first time. Naturally, the handbook should be considered as a tool, a sort of “map” through which to orient yourself and should not be understood as an “absolute” compendium with dogmas or strict rules, also because the temperatures indicated have been “rounded” a little upwards precisely with the aim of not putting your plants at risk (for example if the range between 5 and 10 degrees is indicated, it is very likely that the plants included in this range can tolerate even a few degrees less). Many growers have conducted experiments discovering that certain plants can resist temperatures lower than what is commonly thought, just as others have found that plants considered rustic were not able to survive the winter (in these cases, however, it is more likely that unpredictable factors have occurred, such as frequent frosts or that the specimen itself was already weak or not in perfect shape).

How to read the handbook

The handbook – both for cacti and succulents – is designed for quick and easy consultation. The three icons consider three possible environments for the wintering of plants:

1. the outside: the plants should be placed outside the house but sheltered from the rain and, for caution, protected by a few layers of non-woven fabric;
2. environments protected from rain but without heating, such as a landing, an internal stairwell, a room in the house where the radiator has been closed. For succulents that fall into this “category”, at most, even a very sheltered corner of a balcony can be fine, as long as the plants are covered by at least four layers of non-woven fabric;
3. the apartment: warm environment (generally between 18 and 20 Celsius degrees) and obviously protected from rain. In this case it is best to place the plants near a window and away from heat sources.

Each icon is color coded and genres are listed alphabetically. It is sufficient to scroll through the downloadable handbooks below, identify the genre whose needs we want to know and look at the color of the line in which the genre is written: depending on the color we then refer to the icon.

Download the handbook on winter placement of cacti

Download the handbook on winter placement of succulents

 CULTIVATION CARDS  – To further deepen your knowledge of a single genus of cactus or succulent, remember that in the website shop, at this link, detailed sheets are available in downloadable and printable PDF format with notions, anecdotes, curiosities and precise cultivation instructions. You can find the cards simply by scrolling through the shop, after the section dedicated to subscriptions.

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Correlated articles

Succulents and cold: a table with reference values
Seasonal care for cacti and succulents
How to grow cacti: the handbook

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L'articolo Where to keep succulents in winter? Outside, on a landing or in the house? A practical handbook proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Follow us on a “photo tour” through these botanical wonders. (…)

From Spain.Info we learn that “The Cactus Garden is located in an old quarry from which volcanic ashes or debris were extracted, used by the ancient prickly pear farmers to conserve the night-time humidity of the soil. The artist César Manrique was able to see in this scenario the possibility of converting a residual space into a curious area divided into terraces where over 1.400 species of perfectly classified cacti are grown. The complex, which bears the unmistakable Manrique brand, is presided over by a windmill formerly used to grind corn and now used for educational purposes”.

Overall, the Botanical Garden covers approximately 5,000 square meters and was inaugurated in 1990. A curiosity: the Garden is surrounded by the largest cactus plantation on the island, dedicated to the cultivation of cochineal – yes, one of the main pests animals of succulents – used since ancient times to obtain the characteristic red color with which to dye fabrics.

In detail, the Garden hosts about 10,000 succulent plants belonging to over 1.400 species from various areas of the world (with the exception of cacti, which grow wild only in the Americas).

In this splendid photographic report, created in recent months by my friend Luca Effretti, Il fiore tra le spine takes you on a virtual visit among the beautiful plants of the Garden of Lanzarote. You can observe magnificent and imposing specimens of Euphorbia, Ferocactus, cereus, Mammillaria, Agave, Aeonium and much more!

All photos courtesy of Luca Effretti (click the images to enlarge)

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Correlated links

Knowledge and curiosity
Cactus cultivation cards
Wild cultivation

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L'articolo We take you with us on an exceptional “photo tour” in the Cactus Garden of Lanzarote proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Those who have been cultivating cacti for some time know it well:  Melocactus  are as fascinating as they are “capricious” and you have to come to terms with it. In this article we deepen the knowledge with this genus, in particular from the point of view of the needs, so as to grow robust specimens and limit losses as much as possible. (…)

Introduction

It is usually said that Melocactus and Discocactus (similar genus in some ways) are plants that are loved and hated at the same time. Yes, because if in fact  Melocactus  have their own undoubted charm, at the same time they are among the most mangy cacti to cultivate. Or rather, all things considered, cultivation is not difficult, the fact is that these plants have a marked “tendency to suicide”: having reached a certain stage (almost always when they have formed the cephalium) they tend to lose their roots and only in rare cases they manage to reform the root system, unlike what happens with most cacti. In summary, it can be said that until Melocactus do not develop the cephalium, they have the same needs as other cacti and are not difficult to grow. Once the cephalium is formed – which is their characteristic element – they become extremely delicate plants,  they cannot bear repotting and do not tolerate low temperatures. All this in cultivation, since these plants abound in nature and manage to be quite long-lived.

Distribution and history

Fundamental, as for all plants, is the knowledge of the area of ​​origin of this genus, knowledge that can provide useful data for the cultivation of these plants. Well, all Melocactus are native to the warm areas of the American continent, in particular south-western Mexico, the Antilles, Cuba, Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Ecuador and, above all, Brazil. It follows that these are cacti originating from the central belt of the continent, where temperatures are warmer than, for example, those of the American states or northern Mexico. It is precisely for this reason that Melocactus do not tolerate the cold, unlike most other cacti (except for epiphytes).

From a historical point of view, the Melocactus mark a starting point in the story of the study of cacti, since according to many sources, these plants were the first cacti encountered by Europeans during their expeditions to the Americas at the end of the fifteenth century. As far as it turns out, Christopher Columbus himself observed some specimens in the West Indies, precisely in conjunction with his landing on the American continent. It is clear that for Europeans, who did not know cacti in any way since these plants originate exclusively from the Americas, from a botanical point of view that meeting represented an enormous surprise. It is no coincidence that several specimens of these plants were sent to Europe to be subjected to in-depth studies (and it is to be assumed that only a very few specimens torn from their habitat arrived overseas alive and even those few, if equipped with a cephalium, lasted a few months).

If you want to learn more about the distribution of cacti and succulents in the world you can consult this article, complete with maps.

As further confirmation of what is reported by the sources, there would be the fact that the very name attributed to these plants would probably be the origin of the word “cactus”, deriving from the Greek “kaktos“. The latter term had actually been in use for some time to generically indicate thorny plants such as thistle or artichoke and on the occasion of the Melocactus discovery it was decided to keep it, simply by having it preceded by the terms “melon” (i.e. melon) and “ekinos” (i.e. “curly”, or “thorny”). It follows that the first Melocactus were classified as Echinomelocactus, a term later shortened to Melocactus. The first scientific descriptions of this kind date back to several centuries after the discovery, i.e. in the mid-eighteenth century and are by Carlo Linnaeus, botanist and “father” of modern scientific classification. In particular, Linnaeus described 22 species of Melocactus in his famous Species Plantarum, published in 1753. Over the years, many studies followed one another and today this genus has around thirty species in all.

A short description

Regardless of the species, Melocactus are plants with a globular habit, tending to become short-cylindrical with age. The stems are solitary and have no tendency to bunch or shoot, except as a result of trauma. The dimensions of these plants can be defined as medium and range from twenty centimeters in height of M. matanzanus (the smallest and earliest species to form the cephalium) up to one meter in height, without however counting the cephalium, which can reach about thirty centimeters in the oldest specimens. The stems are generally bright green to dark green in colour, but do not lack the bluish tinge typical of the azureus species. The bodies of the plants are divided into very marked ribs capable of thinning or expanding (“accordion”) depending on the quantity of water present in the stem. The spines vary according to the species: they form at regular intervals along the coasts, they are always pointed and never hooked, slightly curved downwards. In some species they can be robust and short, in others thin and up to ten centimeters long (M. ernestii). The color of the thorns is usually white, tending to gray over time (except in some species, where the spine is brown).

The analysis of the root system is interesting, probably this is the real weak point of these plants. The roots of Melocactus are usually underdeveloped, fibrous in the part close to the stem. Here is what George Thomson notes in his volume “Melocactus” published by Cactus&Co Libri (2009): “This means that even modest damage in the first few centimeters of the root can lead to the loss of the entire root“. And this could actually explain why, once the cephalium has formed, it is advisable to avoid repotting these cacti. Thomson observes again: “The roots are very sensitive and the plants lose them easily in case of prolonged periods of drought or in conditions of stagnant water”.

The cephalium

As we have seen, the cephalium represents the element that distinguishes this genus, although over time other genera of cacti also form what is called “false cephalium” (for example the Discocactus). In Melocactus the cephalium represents the watershed that separates the “juvenile” age from the maturity of the plant, i.e. the moment in which the latter is able to flower, produce fruit and therefore reproduce. Before the formation of the cephalium, the Melocactus develop the stem, which almost always takes on a short-cylindrical shape with age. The Melocactus produces offshoots very rarely and generally do so following an arrest in growth caused by a parasitic attack or, in any case, following a trauma sustained during growth, in particular at the vegetative apex. Once the adult stage is reached, after six or seven years in the earliest species (M. matanzanus) or after at least ten years in other species, the stem stops growing and the plant concentrates its energies on the production of the cephalium, which it forms at the apex of the plants and is composed of short, bristly and thick hair, usually red or white. From this moment on, only the cephalium will grow, which in some species reaches 4-5 centimeters (M. bahiensis), and in others it can reach twenty centimeters (M. peruvianus), giving the plant a bizarre appearance. Here is what George Thomson writes about it in the aforementioned “Melocactus – care and cultivation”: “It has been demonstrated that a large part of the stem of a mature Melocactus comprises only juvenile tissue with a transparent epidermis, and the adult tissue, without stomata, is mostly confined to the central nucleus of the cephalium. This juvenile tissue in the stem of melocactus is probably the reason why it is very difficult, though not impossible, to revive a plant that has lost its roots”.

It is from the cephalium that, during the summer, the flowers are formed, which are tiny in size and vary in color from pink to magenta, and subsequently  the fruits, which appear in the form of oblong, smooth, white, pink or red. The growth of the cephalium in height is annual and in some cases it is possible to observe the layers which make evident the annual development of this curious organism. Finally, in some specimens, it is possible to observe the dichotomization of the cephalium, i.e. its division into two distinct parts according to a phenomenon common to other cacti, in which the vegetative apex can divide (dichotomize precisely) and give life to two distinct “heads” (the phenomenon often occurs in Mammillaria parkinsonii, for example).

Cultivation

Fascinating, particular, bizarre but “touchy” plants, Melocactus are certainly not among the simplest cacti in terms of cultivation. Their life and consequently the level of cultivation can be divided into two phases: pre-cephalian and post-cephalian. Before the formation of the cephalium  the Melocactus can be treated exactly like most cacti and  also tolerate minimum winter temperatures close to zero Celsius degrees. Once the cephalium has formed, cultivation becomes more demanding: the plants no longer tolerate repotting, unless you simply remove the plant from the old container to gently insert it into a new pot without touching the roots (even in these cases, however, some specimens can go into stress and stop growth). Furthermore, since the plant has reached the adult stage, it is advisable  to avoid the winter cold and the Melocactus, from mid-October to the end of April, must be placed in environments sheltered from the rain and where the minimum temperatures do not drop below 15-16 degrees. They can also be placed in the apartment, in a bright place, but they must be watered in moderation no more than once a month and only to prevent the root system from drying out completely. If the stem does not show signs of suffering (in other words if it remains swollen and turgid) it is also possible to limit winter watering to once every two months, so as to further reduce the risk of collar rot.

As far as the substrate is concerned, whether the plant is still young or has a cephalium, the situation does not change and  the Melocactus need very draining and light soils. You can use the tested mix based on peat, pumice and lapilli in equal parts (possibly reducing the peat part and increasing the pumice or adding river gravel or quartzite), or you can create a substrate starting from common clay (a maximum of 20%) by adding a little sand, a little peat (10%) and for the remainder various inert materials such as pumice, gravel or quartzite.

No particular indications regarding  watering and fertilization: during the growing season, Melocactus (with or without cephalium) must be treated like most cacti, with regular watering every two weeks and three or four fertilizations at most. Finally, as far as exposure is concerned, these plants need a lot of light but not necessarily direct sun, which can burn or discolor the epidermis since the thorns are thick enough to protect it from the intense rays of the sun in July and August, especially between noon and 3 pm. A shaded greenhouse, a windowsill, a balcony or a terrace facing Southeast will be ideal and if the direct sun hits the plants throughout the day, it will be sufficient to place the Melocactus in the shelter of shrubs or large plants.

Sowing

The sowing of these cacti is simple and also suitable for those who intend to practice. The fruits are produced autonomously by the plants and emerge from the cephalium during the summer. It is sufficient to extract them by gently pulling the “petiole” formed after the flower has dried, but be careful: it is advisable to wait until the plant has expelled the fruit for at least half of its length. The berry must be able to slip off without any effort; otherwise it should be left in place because tearing the fruit would put the plant at risk, which would end up with a broken and moist berry inside the cephalium (actually, a gateway for pathogens and bacteria). Once the berries have been removed, they are left to dry for a few weeks, then they are opened and the round, black and small seeds are extracted. The sowing procedure is the same that we adopt for almost all cacti (the seeds do not require any  treatment) and growth during the first few years is not particularly slow. With the matanzanus species, for example, 7-8 years are “sufficient” to obtain plants with cephalium.

Main problems

Overall, Melocactus are quite robust plants and if well cultivated they are not subject to adversity in a different way than other cacti. They are certainly  particularly sensitive to water stagnation, especially in winter, therefore it is advisable, with these plants, to always have a light hand when it comes to watering. A phenomenon that frequently affects Melocactus (and which can happen with any cacti, albeit less frequently) is the loss of the root system. Often, even without apparent causes, in the absence of parasites and without having repotted, the roots of Melocactus go into “tilt”. It almost always happens with specimens equipped with cephalium and when we realize it, it’s too late to intervene: the stem dehydrates, deflates and despite watering it does not regain volume. The problem is that a plant with a cephalium seems almost incapable of reforming its root system. In other words, no matter how much care we give to the specimen (flaring it, cleaning the roots, removing the dry ones, placing the plant on pumice), the touchy Melocactus always seems to prefer a slow agony rather than reforming the roots and starting again, as does the most cacti. The sad consequence is that the specimen can remain alive even for two or more years, until the water reserves accumulated inside the stem are completely consumed…

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L'articolo How to cultivate Melocactus, cacti that with age put on… the hat (“cephalium”)! proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

And if it is true that the Copiapoa grown in their habitat have colors and thorns capable of fascinating even those who are not fond of cacti, it is equally true that with correct cultivation even specimens obtained from seeds can become splendid and incredibly attractive plants. Just to enhance the beauty of the stems and thorns of these plants, I have elaborated some photos of my specimens, cutting them out and making them stand out against a black background. The results are exceptional, as shown in the gallery contained in the following article. (…).

I won’t dwell here on the correct cultivation of the Copiapoa, since you can get very detailed information at this link, where you can find the cultivation sheets of the various kinds of cacti. Suffice it to recall here that the specimens of the cinerea species have the particularity of producing a gray wax to protect the stem, with the primary function of limiting transpiration and helping the plants to bear long periods of drought. And if it is true that it is above all in their habitat that these plants produce large quantities of wax, it is equally true that with targeted cultivation and good experience it is possible to obtain excellent results even in “captivity”.

Also for this reason, the illicit trafficking of these plants – as well as criminal – is senseless, also considering that a specimen extirpated from its habitat has little chance of surviving for long once it enters a private collection, perhaps on the other side of the world (the Copiapoa are native to Chile). With regard to an important operation to combat the clandestine trade of these plants, you can read the article I wrote some time ago on the Atacama operation, which saw Italy as a protagonist, for better or for worse. Find the article at this link in the italian versio of the website (you can translate it with the internal translator).

The purpose of this brief article is rather to show the Copiapoa in all their splendour, highlighting their strengths, i.e. shape, color of the stem and thorns. This explains the choice of “isolating” (ie “cutting out”) the photos of some of my specimens and placing the image on a black background.

Let the photos do the talking: click on the image to enlarge it.

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Correlated articles

Cactus cultivation cards
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Her Majesty the Copiapoa: a series of exclusive photos enhances the beauty of this extraordinary cactus proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Hydroculture and succulent plants sound, in some ways, like a conceptual oxymoron. Plants that have naturally evolved to cope with drought, rainfall concentrated in short periods of the year; plants that grow in extremely dry soils, in short, how can they get along with hydroculture? In other words, how can they be grown with a technique that requires the roots to be in constant contact with water? The answer is simple: they can’t. However … however in certain cases and following precise precautions, the constant contact of the roots of a succulent plant with water can be used to save that plant. Even if that plant is a succulent. And that’s exactly what I’m trying to do these days to save two Astrophytum asterias of my sowing in conditions of extreme dehydration, on the verge of dying of thirst (which would be very strange for a cacti!). But let’s go step by step and see exactly what happened to these two plants and how (and why) I’m trying to save them through a kind of “temporary hydroculture”.

I explain everything with lots of photos in the following article, which I consider – in fact – the description of an experiment that is perhaps risky and certainly unorthodox but at the same time not devoid of logic. (…)

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L'articolo Severely dehydrated Astrophytum asterias: here’s a rescue attempt with… hydroculture! proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

It’s a bit like that shy and reserved distant relative: everyone in the family knows he exists, but little or nothing is known about him, or his history. Those who grow cacti and succulent plants, those who are used to attending market-exhibitions of succulent plants, those who hang out in well-stocked nurseries, have certainly observed more than one specimen. Many enthusiasts have one or more specimens in their cacti collection. Yet, very little is known about this Echinopsis Haku-jo. In the many texts dedicated to cacti (not only in Italian) the plant often appears in photographs but the information is always scarce; online there are only brief synthetic cards, almost always accompanying the specimens for sale. For the rest, nothing. The history of this cultivar (a plant that does not exist in nature but obtained through hybridization and crossbreeding by man) remains shrouded in mystery.

In this article I try to summarize what I have learned in years of cultivation and what I have managed to learn about this intriguing Echinopsis cultivar, whose flowering is among the most bizarre in the whole family of cacti (…).

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L'articolo Echinopsis Haku-jo, the cactus with mysterious origins: it does not exist in nature but it’s very popular on the market proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

The topic is a classic and the question is among the most frequently asked among cactus and succulent growers: until when can I water my plants? In other words, given that – as even less expert growers know – it is advisable to keep cacti cold and dry during the winter months until they can be watered, when exactly should we stop watering? And again: should watering be suspended completely or will it just have to be reduced? Are there cacti that can or should also be watered in autumn and winter? Are there any non-cacti succulent plants, especially those with leaves, which need to be watered even in the winter months, otherwise the branches and leaves will wither? It is clear that part of the answer to these questions can vary according to the place where we grow plants (there is a big difference, just to give an example in the Northern hemisphere, between Sicily and Great Britain, Spain or Germany), but in principle it can be said that there are many fixed points that every grower must know and respect in order for his succulents to grow healthy and robust and to flower profusely. Above all, there are some fixed points that must be respected to avoid, quite simply, rotting our cacti and succulent plants during the winter or early spring.

And since the period in which most of the cacti and succulents will go into vegetative stasis is approaching, it is advisable to deepen these fixed points and learn to at least distinguish the macro-water needs of the various families of succulents. This is exactly what we will do in the following article (…)

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L'articolo Summer is at the end of the line: until when can we water cacti and succulent plants? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.