These cacti are easily recognizable by the splendid crown blooms around the apical part of the stem, which can be small or medium in size. These are cacti suitable for expert growers as well as novice growers. Some species, in fact, require a fair amount of experience (among these, Mammillaria luethyi, Mammillaria pectinifera, Mammillaria solisoides, Mammillaria lasiacantha, Mammillaria senilis, Mammillaria herrerae); other species are suitable for anyone (among these, Mammillaria elongata, Mammillaria bombycina, Mammillaria prolifera, Mammillaria polythele, Mammillaria uncinata, Mammillaria bocasana, Mammillaria perbella, Mammillaria mystax). The stems can appear globose, often clustered, very harmonious and in some cases covered with thick hair or very white thorns. (…)

The origin of Mammillaria: where these cacti grow

As regards distribution, Mammillaria are native to the southwestern area of the United States and Mexico, where they grow in many states such as Tamaulipas, Hidalgo, Chiapas, Colima, Puebla, Oaxaca, Baja California, San Luis Potosí, Durango . Some species can also be found in the Caribbean area, in Central America and in some regions in the north of South America (such as Colombia and Venezuela). The range of origin of this genus is therefore very vast and this is also why the Mammillaria have been able to evolve in different ways, giving rise to a large number of species and subspecies.

The main characteristic of the entire genus, regardless of the shape of the specimen, is the presence of tubercles, small “cones” (similar to breasts, hence the name of the genus, from the latin term “mammilla”) which characterize the stem and which can be more or less marked depending on the species. The areoles and spines form at the apex of the tubercles. Some Mammillaria produce a latex that may resemble that contained in Euphorbia. By virtue of this, the distinction between Mammillaria Galactochylus (which contain latex) and Mammillaria Hydrochylus (which does not contain latex) was once in use.

The forms and species of Mammillaria

The thorns can take on many shapes and in some species they are hidden by thick white hair (Mammillaria hahniana). You can have short and pointed spines, long and twisted spines (Mammillaria camptotricha), hooked spines (Mammillaria uncinata, M. bombycina, M. perezdelarosae), as well as “combed” spines (Mammillaria pectinifera) and robust and long spines (Mammillaria compressa, Mammillaria magnimamma). Many species, in particular those traced back to the so-called lasiacantha group, have pure white thorns that completely cover the stem and which can turn gray with age. Among the white-spined species, Mammillaria perbella, M. candida, M. magallanii, M. lasiacantha, M. lenti, M. klissingiana, M. humboldtii, M. albiflora, M. herrerae, M. plumosa deserve mention.

How Mammillaria are grown

As regards cultivation, in general most of the species are also suitable for novice growers, since they are robust cacti and do not require any particular precautions compared to most cacti. Some species, however, can prove particularly challenging, to the point that their cultivation is recommended for those who have some experience with succulents. The particular sensitivity to water stagnation or the presence of taproot, which requires soils that are poor from an organic point of view and rich in aggregates and well-spaced watering.

Exposure and minimum temperatures

Regarding exposure, all Mammillaria want a lot of light for at least 6 hours a day, but only those whose stem is entirely covered with thorns (usually white ones) can stay in direct sun for many hours, as long as they are gradually accustomed to it starting from the end of March.

Mammillaria tolerate the cold well, as long as the soil is dry from the end of September.

Here you will find a PDF sheet entirely dedicated to the Mammillaria genus.

The English association The Mammillaria Society is dedicated to this type of cactus: anyone interested can take a look at their website at this link.

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Photos of some species of Mammillaria

Correlated articles

• How to grow cacti: the handbook
• The section dedicated to soils
• Most frequent questions and doubts
• All cultivation cards in pdf

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L'articolo Mammillaria, a genus of cactus that is essential in any self-respecting succulent collection proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Without dwelling too much on the broad field of plant classification (here, if you want, you will find an article dedicated to this topic) and taking it for granted that the term “succulent plants” refers both to cacti and to many other succulent botanical families whose specimens have a different appearance from any other cactus, we are addressing a very “heartfelt” topic among novice growers. Even the grower who boasts a good knowledge of a given family, however, may find the following article useful, which recommends succulent plants (belonging to various botanical families) that are less demanding, more robust and simple to grow and therefore more suitable for those who are only now approaching the world of succulents. (…)

Premise

With a minimum of initial documentation and experience it is possible to grow all succulents without particular difficulties. Striking down to the essentials, the main cultivation elements to take into consideration are the substrates, watering, exposure and temperatures. In many cases these elements may be common to different types of succulents, for example the substrates, which for succulents must always be very draining, rich in inert materials and able to dry quickly. Other cultivation factors, however, can vary enormously from family to family but also from genus to genus. Some examples: cacti tolerate the cold well, while succulents originating from Madagascar or some African areas (e.g. Adenium, Uncarina, Pachypodium) cannot resist temperatures below 15-16 Celsius degrees. In the same Cactaceae family we find genera that are very resistant to cold (Echinopsis, Pediocactus, Opuntia) and genera that do not tolerate low temperatures (epiphytic cacti such as Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Rhipsalis or Melocactus and Discocactus).

This is why, for those who are only now approaching the cultivation of succulents, it is important to know which plants to start with in order to accumulate experience and best cultivate the newly purchased plants. The discussion, as mentioned, applies as much to cacti as to all other succulent families, since an enthusiast can be an expert in cacti and approach other families for the first time, such as Crassulaceae, Aizoaceae, Apocynaceae, Euphorbiaceae, etc.

Cactus

Let’s start with cacti. The first genera recommended to those who have no experience with these plants are undoubtedly Echinopsis, Gymnocalycium, Rebutia, Parodia (=Notocactus), Opuntia, Ferocactus. Be careful, there are many other cacti that are easy to grow but if you have to suggest some kind, you can’t go wrong with these. These are genera that group together very robust species, with few demands, capable of tolerating many cultivation errors and at the same time easily giving abundant and splendid blooms.

Attention: in some cases by clicking on the genus you will be directed to the downloadable PDF cultivation sheet of that same genus: a useful and detailed tool (4 pages) to deepen your knowledge of those plants.

Echinopsis are very common plants, extremely robust and able to tolerate the cold very well. They are therefore ideal for those who do not have a greenhouse or winter shelter (cold environment, necessary to encourage flowering). Echinopsis can spend the winter outdoors, often even in damp soil, although it is advisable to place them under a shed or porch. In spring and summer they produce showy flowers with a large corolla and long calyx.

Gymnocalycium are plants of South American origin (Argentina). They are easy to grow, tolerate the cold well (not frost: it is best that they do not go below 5 Celsius degrees and always in dry soil) and have growth rates that are not particularly slow. Furthermore, the genus brings together a large number of very different species and even just by cultivating Gymnocalycium it is possible to set up a very respectable collection. They flower in spring and summer already 4 or 5 years after sowing.

Other cacti recommended for those with little experience are the Rebutia. These are plants of South American origin, generally globose and with a tendency to cluster. Cultivation is very simple and their strong point are the flowers. In spring, these cacti produce an impressive quantity of medium-sized flowers of various colors depending on the species.

Parodia (once classified as Notocactus) are robust and very easy to grow cacti. They are satisfied with little care, have growth rates that are not excessively slow and produce beautiful blooms at the apex during the summer. Depending on the species, the flowers can be yellow, purple, red, orange. Even the thorns are variable from species to species and you can go from plants with slender and thin thorns to plants with very respectable thorns (P. maassii, P. buiningii).

Opuntias are bombproof cacti. They grow quickly, tolerate intense cold, multiply extremely easily by cutting and in many countries they can grow in the open ground, even exposed to bad weather during the winter. They can reach large dimensions (especially if grown in open ground) and produce beautiful flowers with colors ranging from pink to red, from yellow to orange.

Finally, for lovers of thorns, the first genus to recommend is Ferocactus. These are very robust cacti, always equipped with notable thorns, easy to grow, as long as they are guaranteed plenty of light, and grow relatively quickly. Some species flower relatively early (F. macrodiscus, F. schwarzii), others require at least a dozen years to produce the first flowers. Many species of Ferocactus can reach considerable dimensions even if grown in pots. However, those who have little experience with cacti should avoid starting with Ferocactus johnstonianus and Ferocactus lindsayi: two slightly more demanding and slow-growing species.

Crassulaceae

If you’re not particularly fond of thorns, the Crassulaceae family offers a wide variety of succulent genera and species. This family includes genera such as Aeonium, Adromischus, Crassula, Echeveria, Kalanchoe, Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum and the immortals Sedum and Sempervivum. Recommending a genus or a single species is almost superfluous: all Crassulaceae are easy to grow, very decorative, resistant and have good tolerance to cold. Having to indicate a couple of plants of this family, we can mention the very widespread Crassula ovata, called “jade tree”, with a small tree shape and oval, fleshy and bright green leaves. Another very interesting genus from an aesthetic point of view and easy to grow is that of Echeveria: plants of Mexican origin, very robust and with a characteristic rosette shape. Thanks to the high number of species and the many crossings carried out over the years, an infinite variety of Echeveria is available, with colored leaves that can range from blue to red.

Euphorbia

The Euphorbia family is very vast and includes very different genera. You can go from plants with a rounded stem without thorns, such as E. obesa, to plants with a columnar, curled shape, with leaves and thorns. Overall, the cultivation of Euphorbia is simple, but there is no shortage of species that require some experience. To begin with, E. resinifera, a very resistant and adaptable plant, E. enopla and E. obesa, beautiful and with an epidermis characterized by fascinating striations, can be indicated.

Agaves

It’s hard to go wrong with Agaves. These are very robust succulents, extremely adaptable and very easy to grow. In reality, they can almost be ignored completely: if placed in draining soil they are satisfied with rainwater, they resist intense sun and cold very well, to the point that in many regions they are grown in the open ground. They have rather rapid growth rates and many species can reach considerable sizes within a few years, particularly if kept in open ground.

Aloe

Even Aloes, in some ways similar to Agaves, are succulent plants suitable for those who are approaching the world of succulents and do not yet have much experience. Compared to Agaves, however, Aloes (succulent plants of African origin) tolerate intense cold less and should be kept at minimum temperatures no lower than 6-7 degrees. To begin with, you can start from the common but always elegant Aloe vera, a robust and relatively fast growing plant. Other very widespread and easy to grow species are Aloe arborescens and Aloe variegata, very easy to propagate and very generous with blooms.

Hoya

Finally, a succulent plant belonging to the Asclepiadaceae family. Hoya has seen its popularity grow among green enthusiasts in recent years. Aesthetically it has little in common with other succulents, but it is still a very decorative plant, also suitable for home cultivation and capable of producing beautiful cluster blooms. The star-shaped flowers are very particular, they have fleshy and smooth petals to the point that the Hoya themselves are also known as “porcelain flower” or “wax flower”. The plant produces long stems from which thick and fleshy leaves are formed, ranging in color from dark green to bright green, up to green streaked with yellow. Cultivation is simple and growth is relatively fast. Furthermore, Hoya also tolerate relatively low temperatures well, around 10 Celsius degrees.

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Correlated articles

• Recognising succulents plants and cactus
• How to grow succulents
• Most frequent questions and doubts
• All cultivation cards in pdf
• Distribution of cacti and succulents: maps

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L'articolo Succulent plants, a small guide for those approaching this world: the simplest species to grow proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Among these, some species of Echinocereus, as the plant you see in the photo, which I had given up for dead, and whitch instead was reborn after two winters spent entirely outdoors, exposed to the cold and humidity whitch characterizes northern Italy. In this article here is the history of this plant and a brief overview of the succulent plants that we can keep outdoors all year round. (…)

Premise

The precautions we take to protect our succulents during the winter months, particularly in the Northern regions, are important. Yes, because if it is true that most cacti and many succulents (to understand the difference between cacti and succulents you can read this article) have good resistance to the cold, it is equally true that too much watering or a night frost is enough to seriously damage these plants or, potentially, trigger rot, particularly if the cold is accompanied by prolonged environmental humidity conditions. Moving the plants to a place sheltered from the rain, covering them with various layers of non-woven fabric, sheltering them in not cramped greenhouses and airing them on sunny days is certainly the best solution to minimize losses. In some cases even this is not enough: think of cacti such as Melocactus, Discocactus and all epiphytes, or succulents originating from Madagascar and some African areas, such as many Euphorbias and all Adenium obesum. All these plants require minimum temperatures not lower than 15-16 Celsius degrees and must therefore be brought indoors from at least mid-October, when the night-time minimum temperatures begin to drop significantly.

Here you will find an article with two downloadable PDF handbooks with the ideal placement for the various succulents in winter.

The Echinocereus returned from the cold

Having made the necessary introduction, here is the story of this Echinocereus of mine who wanted to amaze me, at the same time giving me an important lesson and reiterating the concept – which I have already assimilated thanks to other experiences in the past – that with succulent plants it is important not to give anything for granted. The plant in question is an Echinocereus laui. I grow a few specimens of the Echinocereus genus and I grow them mainly for the flower, since I don’t find the stems or thorns of these plants particularly attractive (with a few exceptions such as E. lindsayi). The plant you see in the photos has been with me for several years. Doing some quick calculations, just under twenty years to be more precise and the story of his “apparent death” and rebirth (in the cold) dates back at least four years. Initially this plant, which I took while still very small, in a 6 or 7 centimeter pot, grew regularly, soon starting to take on its columnar shape (although its size was limited to about fifteen centimeters) and to flower regularly.

At a certain point, years ago, the main stem sent out a branch and the plant, little by little, took on a “double” appearance: over time the stem and the branch in short reached the same height. Well before the branch reached the main stem, however, the latter began to bend significantly, to the point that I decided to tie it to a plant support. In those years the plant grew regularly and flowered, as can be seen from the photo on the side. After further years, when the two stems were now even, the Echinocerus began to slow down its growth, until it stopped completely. The apex did not develop and did not produce new spines. In the meantime, the stems were bending more and more noticeably despite the support and the lower part of the plant began to take on a grey, not at all encouraging, appearance.

After a couple of seasons, seeing that the Echinocereus showed no signs of recovery and that the entire stem had now taken on an ugly greyish colour, I thought there was nothing left to do. The plant did not grow or flower. It showed no obvious signs of rot but the color of the stem seemed like a complete condemnation, to the point that I didn’t even bother to dig up the plant and check the roots. Considering it to be in fact already dead, I limited myself to removing it from the greenhouse and taking it outside, placing it along a low wall where I usually leave the plants affected by some fungus or otherwise dead. The wall is located along a field and offers no shelter from the rain and, obviously, from the cold. I use it mostly to let the plants go in peace when I think there’s nothing left to do…

The Echinocerus spent the final part of the summer in that position, the entire following winter and, since I completely forgot about it, the entire year after that, including the winter. Only after a year and a half, therefore, did the plant manage to attract my attention. How did it do? Simply flowering, so that while hanging out near the greenhouse I spotted a couple of spots of color in the distance (Echinocereus laui produces beautiful magenta flowers, not as large as those of other Echinocereus but still very showy). Not without surprise, I approached the wall after almost two years and discovered that the Echinocereus had not only survived two winters in the cold, in full humidity and receiving the rain that had fallen in all that time, but had started again. The recovery was evident: the apical part of the two stems was green, the plant had produced new thorns perfectly identical to the old ones, and had flowered. As proof of all this, here in this article are some of the photos I took on that occasion.

Here’s a good lesson for me: the plant I had given up on had come back to life, in my face, and had attracted my attention by starting to flower again. All this without any treatment from me, in fact, resisting the cold and humidity of two winters and returning to grow as if nothing had happened. Obviously, as soon as I discovered that the Echinocereus was in full vegetation and, even with the old part of the stem still grey, I brought it back to the greenhouse, where it is still found today and where every year the two stems, increasingly longer and increasingly prostrate (I gave up the support, letting the plant take on the shape it wanted or needed to take on) they regularly give me splendid blooms in late spring. Once again Nature has shown me that, no matter what we do, in the end it is always and only she who decides.

Succulents that tolerate cold

Despite the “rebirth” of my Echinocereus, it must be said that this genus of cactus is among the most inclined to tolerate low temperatures. Of course, as a precaution I don’t recommend keeping your Echinocereus outdoors all year round, also because some species resist better than others and not all would survive, but the genus is robust, there’s no doubt about that. 

As regards, more generally, succulent plants that tolerate the cold well and that we can leave outdoors all year round, albeit with some precautions, here is a small overview based on my experience over many years of cultivation.

As obvious as we want, but among the first succulents that have a good relationship with the cold we cannot fail to mention the Agaves. In many areas of Italy (even in the North, particularly in the areas close to lakes) and in southern France (French Riviera) these succulents can also be grown in the open ground. In pots they can remain outdoors all year round, although the advice is to keep them under sheds or porches to prevent the soil from remaining constantly damp. Among the Agaves, the exception is the macroacantha species, which cannot resist intense cold and excessive humidity. This species must therefore be sheltered and kept at temperatures no lower than 3 or 4 Celsius degrees. Also be careful with Aloes, which many mistakenly associate with Agaves. Aloes are plants of African origin and require significantly higher minimum temperatures than Agaves (although 6 or 7 Celsius degrees are sufficient) and should not be watered in winter.

Still remaining in the field of non-cacaceae succulents, the Sempervivum and Sedum (genera belonging to the Crassulaceae family) should be mentioned without hesitation. For these plants, which also grow in the mountains, winter is a… walk in the park and they thrive better in the cold than closed in a greenhouse or sheltered by layers of non-woven fabric. Sedum and Sempervivum can therefore be left outdoors all year round without any shelter from the rain: they grow better in the cold than in the oppressive heat of summer!

Cacti that resist outdoors

Most cacti can handle the cold very well, even intense temperatures, i.e. with night-time lows around zero Celsius degrees (even a few degrees lower), as long as they are in a dry substrate from the end of September. Some genera are even more robust and can be kept outdoors all year round, in some cases even in damp soil (but avoiding the stagnation that can be created with excessively peaty substrates or, worse, leaving the plants resting on saucers).

Among the most resistant cactaceae are undoubtedly almost all Echinopsis, which are often left on balconies and terraces with the only precaution of sheltering them from the rain (although these plants are often able to survive even in damp soil). Almost all Opuntias are very robust and, like the Agaves, in some areas (Southern Italy, the Ligurian Riviera, the French Riviera) grow in the open ground without any problem. Tephrocactus, Chilean plants that have some affinities with Opuntia, also tolerate the cold well and can spend the winter outdoors, as long as they are sheltered from the rain. However, a spray from time to time during the winter months is useful for these cacti, which if kept dry for months easily lose their “cladodes” (the new parts of the stem). Within the Tephrocactus genus, however, it is useful to keep the geometricus species sheltered, which is very “in fashion” in recent years: the cold and humidity easily cause stains on the stem of this cactus.

Other genera of cacti accustomed to spending long periods in intense cold are the Pediocactus and the Escobaria (almost all species). These are not very widespread genera but are ideal for those who want to grow cacti without having to move them in the winter months. Pediocactus and some species of Escobaria (for example E. vivipara) can tolerate temperatures several degrees below zero even in damp soil. For years I have kept some specimens of Pediocactus (simpsonii and knowltonii) and some Escobaria vivipara outside the greenhouse all year round, letting them get the rain even in winter: they have always resisted and flowered regularly.

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Correlated articles

• Where to keep succulents in winter?
• Succulents and cold: minimum temperatures
• Seasonal care for cacti and succulents
• Be careful of winter blooms

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L'articolo Succulents outdoor all year? Here are the ones that resist and the story of my “resurrected” Echinocereus proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

A practical handbook and an in-depth analysis on a much debated topic among those who grow succulent and/or cactus plants. Here’s what you’ll find by reading this article, designed specifically to help those who, with the first drops in temperatures, are starting to wonder where to place their succulents when the real cold arrives. Unless you have a greenhouse, perhaps equipped with a burner regulated by a thermostat, the question is in fact more than pertinent: during the winter it is better to keep the succulent plants outside (sheltered from the rain), or in a cool environment such as a landing, an internal staircase or even a garage? Or should we bring all the plants indoors? It is good to clarify immediately that the answer to these questions cannot be tranchant or “absolute”: obviously the correct winter location depends on many factors, starting from the area in which the plants are grown (North or South Italy? North or South Europe? Sea or high mountains?) to arrive at the type of plant (Cactaceae, succulent native to Africa or Madagascar? Sempervivum, Crassula, Euphorbia?). In short, the range of cases is very broad and as always there are no absolute rules. Luckily there are many fixed points and many precautions that should be respected to ensure that our succulents pass the winter securely and take advantage of the vegetative stasis to be able to flower again the following year.

The following article answers these questions, and you will also find an indication of the correct measures to be taken to ensure that cacti and succulents overwinter in the best possible way, have abundant blooms and, above all, you’ll find a practical handbook with an indication of the best location for cacti and succulents organized in alphabetical order, so as to facilitate the identification of the plant, understand in which minimum temperature range it can stay and where it can be placed (for example outside, on a landing, or directly inside the house). (…)

Premise

Succulent plants, whether Cactaceae or succulent plants belonging to other families such as Crassulaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Euphorbiaceae, etc., are not houseplants. They can certainly adapt to home cultivation, but they are plants that require light, air and which find their best location in outdoor environments such as windowsills, terraces, gardens or open greenhouses. This, of course, in the growing season which generally runs from March to October. The problem, and therefore the focus of this article, is winter, also because not everyone has the possibility of having a greenhouse or a garden. Given the slight drop in temperatures in recent days, questions are growing regarding how to behave in view of the cold weather in the coming months. As always, given that succulents are a varied world, made up of thousands of botanical species, unfortunately there is no single answer. However, there are parameters and references on which we can rely to give the correct answer to the question regarding wintering. These parameters are essentially the guides underlying the handbook that you will find at the end of the article.

Attention: this article is designed specifically for those who are not yet very familiar with these plants and need practical information and quick answers: for example, I have this succulent, where can I place it when it gets cold? For more specific insights and tables with the minimum temperatures that succulents can reach, it is possible to refer to two other articles published in the past. The first article, accompanied by a table with minimum temperatures, can be found at this link. The second article, which deals with seasonal care in detail, can be reached via this link.

Cacti

Let’s begin to distinguish between Cactaceae and succulent plants in general. The distinction is not intended to complicate the matter, but rather to simplify it to more quickly identify the correct solution to the initial question: where to place the plants during the winter? If you want to learn more about the difference between a cactus and any other succulent (for example Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops), you will find this article helpful.

Almost all cacti tolerate low temperatures very well. By low temperatures we mean minimums close to zero Celsius degrees or even well below this value. The cacti can therefore also be placed outside as long as watering is completely suspended at the end of September and they are positioned in a cold place sheltered from the rain. These are also the essential conditions for the plants to flower from the following spring. Therefore, a terrace, a balcony or a garden are fine. The important thing is that the cacti do not take on water until the end of March and the temperatures do not fall below zero Celsius degrees for several consecutive nights. In the event of frost or prolonged nights with temperatures well below zero, it is advisable to move the plants to a less cold place, even if only temporarily. A useful precaution is to cover the cacti with at least two or three layers of non-woven fabric: naturally it doesn’t work miracles, but two or three degrees more ensures them and, above all, allows transpiration, preventing condensation from forming on the plants or a humid environment is created, which is very dangerous for these plants as it favors the formation of stains on the stem, mold and fungi. On sunny winter days it is useful to raise the tissue even for a couple of hours to ensure the plants have a good exchange of air. It is best to avoid small greenhouses closed by thick sheets of transparent plastic, unless you always leave them open during daylight hours.

An exception to this basic rule are some genera of cacti, which do not tolerate the cold and should therefore be kept indoors or in environments where temperatures do not fall below certain limits (for example an internal staircase, a landing or even a garage). In these cases it is not necessary for the plants to receive a lot of light because if we suspend watering the cacti go into stasis and stop growing. This avoids the risk of “etiolation”, i.e. the so-called “spinning” which disfigures the plant from an aesthetic point of view. Attention: however, if we see excessive wrinkling of the stem or branches of these cacti, particularly if they are wintering indoors, it is advisable to water in moderation, at most once a month. The cacti that do not tolerate the cold are those originating from tropical areas and forests: firstly the epiphytic cacti (Schlumbergera, but also Epiphyllum, Rhipsalis, Aporocactus); secondly, two species native to Brazil and the Cuban archipelago: Melocactus and Discocactus. All these plants must winter at minimum temperatures no lower than 12/14 Celsius degrees (Melocactus and Discocactus require even higher minimum temperatures, between 16-18 Celsius degrees): you will find all the indications and the reference to the genus in the handbook accompanying this article.

Succulent

In theory, for succulents the matter becomes a little more complicated. This is because the Cactaceae is a single family that is divided into genera, species and subspecies. Succulents, on the other hand, are distributed in various families which are in turn divided into genera, species and subspecies. The number of these plants is therefore very high and providing specific indications plant by plant is almost impossible. However, even in this case it is sufficient to set a few “boundaries” to make the matter less complicated. The first element to consider is the place of origin of the plant: many succulents come from Africa or Madagascar (for example Euphorbia and Lithops). Clearly these plants require higher minimum temperatures and cultivation at home or in an environment where the minimum temperatures do not drop below 10/12 Celsius degrees is ideal. Other families or genera, for example Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, tolerate intense cold very well, in many cases even well below freezing.

Even with succulents it is advisable to suspend or at least reduce watering during the winter months, whether they are in a cold environment or in an apartment. During the winter months, in fact, almost all plants slow down in growth and frequent watering would only expose the specimen to the risk of root rot. Generally speaking, you can adjust as follows: from the end of October to the end of March, succulents should be placed in environments sheltered from rain and at temperatures between 7 and 16 Celsius degrees. There are many exceptions, such as the aforementioned Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, which we can keep outdoors even without protection and letting them take the rain (as long as it is not torrential and lasts for whole days). Other plants, such as some species of Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops (the so-called “stone plants”), tolerate the cold well but must be kept dry and at temperatures between 2 and 7 Celsius degrees. Other plants native to Africa or Madagascar, such as Adenium obesum (called “Desert Rose”), Pachypodium (the so-called “Madagascar Palm”), Uncarina and several species of Euphorbia require several degrees more because they do not tolerate the cold: all these plants will therefore have to be brought indoors from at least mid-October, unless autumn is mild and the minimum temperatures remain high even in this period, as happens in the regions of Southern Italy, Southern France or in Spain.

The handbook that completes this article will also be useful to orient you between the needs of the various succulents.

The handbook

The handbook (actually the handbooks, since one is dedicated to cacti and the other to succulents). It is intended to be a useful tool for the still inexperienced grower or for the expert grower who is approaching a particular genre for the first time. Naturally, the handbook should be considered as a tool, a sort of “map” through which to orient yourself and should not be understood as an “absolute” compendium with dogmas or strict rules, also because the temperatures indicated have been “rounded” a little upwards precisely with the aim of not putting your plants at risk (for example if the range between 5 and 10 degrees is indicated, it is very likely that the plants included in this range can tolerate even a few degrees less). Many growers have conducted experiments discovering that certain plants can resist temperatures lower than what is commonly thought, just as others have found that plants considered rustic were not able to survive the winter (in these cases, however, it is more likely that unpredictable factors have occurred, such as frequent frosts or that the specimen itself was already weak or not in perfect shape).

How to read the handbook

The handbook – both for cacti and succulents – is designed for quick and easy consultation. The three icons consider three possible environments for the wintering of plants:

1. the outside: the plants should be placed outside the house but sheltered from the rain and, for caution, protected by a few layers of non-woven fabric;
2. environments protected from rain but without heating, such as a landing, an internal stairwell, a room in the house where the radiator has been closed. For succulents that fall into this “category”, at most, even a very sheltered corner of a balcony can be fine, as long as the plants are covered by at least four layers of non-woven fabric;
3. the apartment: warm environment (generally between 18 and 20 Celsius degrees) and obviously protected from rain. In this case it is best to place the plants near a window and away from heat sources.

Each icon is color coded and genres are listed alphabetically. It is sufficient to scroll through the downloadable handbooks below, identify the genre whose needs we want to know and look at the color of the line in which the genre is written: depending on the color we then refer to the icon.

Download the handbook on winter placement of cacti

Download the handbook on winter placement of succulents

 CULTIVATION CARDS  – To further deepen your knowledge of a single genus of cactus or succulent, remember that in the website shop, at this link, detailed sheets are available in downloadable and printable PDF format with notions, anecdotes, curiosities and precise cultivation instructions. You can find the cards simply by scrolling through the shop, after the section dedicated to subscriptions.

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Correlated articles

Succulents and cold: a table with reference values
Seasonal care for cacti and succulents
How to grow cacti: the handbook

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L'articolo Where to keep succulents in winter? Outside, on a landing or in the house? A practical handbook proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Follow us on a “photo tour” through these botanical wonders. (…)

From Spain.Info we learn that “The Cactus Garden is located in an old quarry from which volcanic ashes or debris were extracted, used by the ancient prickly pear farmers to conserve the night-time humidity of the soil. The artist César Manrique was able to see in this scenario the possibility of converting a residual space into a curious area divided into terraces where over 1.400 species of perfectly classified cacti are grown. The complex, which bears the unmistakable Manrique brand, is presided over by a windmill formerly used to grind corn and now used for educational purposes”.

Overall, the Botanical Garden covers approximately 5,000 square meters and was inaugurated in 1990. A curiosity: the Garden is surrounded by the largest cactus plantation on the island, dedicated to the cultivation of cochineal – yes, one of the main pests animals of succulents – used since ancient times to obtain the characteristic red color with which to dye fabrics.

In detail, the Garden hosts about 10,000 succulent plants belonging to over 1.400 species from various areas of the world (with the exception of cacti, which grow wild only in the Americas).

In this splendid photographic report, created in recent months by my friend Luca Effretti, Il fiore tra le spine takes you on a virtual visit among the beautiful plants of the Garden of Lanzarote. You can observe magnificent and imposing specimens of Euphorbia, Ferocactus, cereus, Mammillaria, Agave, Aeonium and much more!

All photos courtesy of Luca Effretti (click the images to enlarge)

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Knowledge and curiosity
Cactus cultivation cards
Wild cultivation

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L'articolo We take you with us on an exceptional “photo tour” in the Cactus Garden of Lanzarote proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Those who have been cultivating cacti for some time know it well:  Melocactus  are as fascinating as they are “capricious” and you have to come to terms with it. In this article we deepen the knowledge with this genus, in particular from the point of view of the needs, so as to grow robust specimens and limit losses as much as possible. (…)

Introduction

It is usually said that Melocactus and Discocactus (similar genus in some ways) are plants that are loved and hated at the same time. Yes, because if in fact  Melocactus  have their own undoubted charm, at the same time they are among the most mangy cacti to cultivate. Or rather, all things considered, cultivation is not difficult, the fact is that these plants have a marked “tendency to suicide”: having reached a certain stage (almost always when they have formed the cephalium) they tend to lose their roots and only in rare cases they manage to reform the root system, unlike what happens with most cacti. In summary, it can be said that until Melocactus do not develop the cephalium, they have the same needs as other cacti and are not difficult to grow. Once the cephalium is formed – which is their characteristic element – they become extremely delicate plants,  they cannot bear repotting and do not tolerate low temperatures. All this in cultivation, since these plants abound in nature and manage to be quite long-lived.

Distribution and history

Fundamental, as for all plants, is the knowledge of the area of ​​origin of this genus, knowledge that can provide useful data for the cultivation of these plants. Well, all Melocactus are native to the warm areas of the American continent, in particular south-western Mexico, the Antilles, Cuba, Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Ecuador and, above all, Brazil. It follows that these are cacti originating from the central belt of the continent, where temperatures are warmer than, for example, those of the American states or northern Mexico. It is precisely for this reason that Melocactus do not tolerate the cold, unlike most other cacti (except for epiphytes).

From a historical point of view, the Melocactus mark a starting point in the story of the study of cacti, since according to many sources, these plants were the first cacti encountered by Europeans during their expeditions to the Americas at the end of the fifteenth century. As far as it turns out, Christopher Columbus himself observed some specimens in the West Indies, precisely in conjunction with his landing on the American continent. It is clear that for Europeans, who did not know cacti in any way since these plants originate exclusively from the Americas, from a botanical point of view that meeting represented an enormous surprise. It is no coincidence that several specimens of these plants were sent to Europe to be subjected to in-depth studies (and it is to be assumed that only a very few specimens torn from their habitat arrived overseas alive and even those few, if equipped with a cephalium, lasted a few months).

If you want to learn more about the distribution of cacti and succulents in the world you can consult this article, complete with maps.

As further confirmation of what is reported by the sources, there would be the fact that the very name attributed to these plants would probably be the origin of the word “cactus”, deriving from the Greek “kaktos“. The latter term had actually been in use for some time to generically indicate thorny plants such as thistle or artichoke and on the occasion of the Melocactus discovery it was decided to keep it, simply by having it preceded by the terms “melon” (i.e. melon) and “ekinos” (i.e. “curly”, or “thorny”). It follows that the first Melocactus were classified as Echinomelocactus, a term later shortened to Melocactus. The first scientific descriptions of this kind date back to several centuries after the discovery, i.e. in the mid-eighteenth century and are by Carlo Linnaeus, botanist and “father” of modern scientific classification. In particular, Linnaeus described 22 species of Melocactus in his famous Species Plantarum, published in 1753. Over the years, many studies followed one another and today this genus has around thirty species in all.

A short description

Regardless of the species, Melocactus are plants with a globular habit, tending to become short-cylindrical with age. The stems are solitary and have no tendency to bunch or shoot, except as a result of trauma. The dimensions of these plants can be defined as medium and range from twenty centimeters in height of M. matanzanus (the smallest and earliest species to form the cephalium) up to one meter in height, without however counting the cephalium, which can reach about thirty centimeters in the oldest specimens. The stems are generally bright green to dark green in colour, but do not lack the bluish tinge typical of the azureus species. The bodies of the plants are divided into very marked ribs capable of thinning or expanding (“accordion”) depending on the quantity of water present in the stem. The spines vary according to the species: they form at regular intervals along the coasts, they are always pointed and never hooked, slightly curved downwards. In some species they can be robust and short, in others thin and up to ten centimeters long (M. ernestii). The color of the thorns is usually white, tending to gray over time (except in some species, where the spine is brown).

The analysis of the root system is interesting, probably this is the real weak point of these plants. The roots of Melocactus are usually underdeveloped, fibrous in the part close to the stem. Here is what George Thomson notes in his volume “Melocactus” published by Cactus&Co Libri (2009): “This means that even modest damage in the first few centimeters of the root can lead to the loss of the entire root“. And this could actually explain why, once the cephalium has formed, it is advisable to avoid repotting these cacti. Thomson observes again: “The roots are very sensitive and the plants lose them easily in case of prolonged periods of drought or in conditions of stagnant water”.

The cephalium

As we have seen, the cephalium represents the element that distinguishes this genus, although over time other genera of cacti also form what is called “false cephalium” (for example the Discocactus). In Melocactus the cephalium represents the watershed that separates the “juvenile” age from the maturity of the plant, i.e. the moment in which the latter is able to flower, produce fruit and therefore reproduce. Before the formation of the cephalium, the Melocactus develop the stem, which almost always takes on a short-cylindrical shape with age. The Melocactus produces offshoots very rarely and generally do so following an arrest in growth caused by a parasitic attack or, in any case, following a trauma sustained during growth, in particular at the vegetative apex. Once the adult stage is reached, after six or seven years in the earliest species (M. matanzanus) or after at least ten years in other species, the stem stops growing and the plant concentrates its energies on the production of the cephalium, which it forms at the apex of the plants and is composed of short, bristly and thick hair, usually red or white. From this moment on, only the cephalium will grow, which in some species reaches 4-5 centimeters (M. bahiensis), and in others it can reach twenty centimeters (M. peruvianus), giving the plant a bizarre appearance. Here is what George Thomson writes about it in the aforementioned “Melocactus – care and cultivation”: “It has been demonstrated that a large part of the stem of a mature Melocactus comprises only juvenile tissue with a transparent epidermis, and the adult tissue, without stomata, is mostly confined to the central nucleus of the cephalium. This juvenile tissue in the stem of melocactus is probably the reason why it is very difficult, though not impossible, to revive a plant that has lost its roots”.

It is from the cephalium that, during the summer, the flowers are formed, which are tiny in size and vary in color from pink to magenta, and subsequently  the fruits, which appear in the form of oblong, smooth, white, pink or red. The growth of the cephalium in height is annual and in some cases it is possible to observe the layers which make evident the annual development of this curious organism. Finally, in some specimens, it is possible to observe the dichotomization of the cephalium, i.e. its division into two distinct parts according to a phenomenon common to other cacti, in which the vegetative apex can divide (dichotomize precisely) and give life to two distinct “heads” (the phenomenon often occurs in Mammillaria parkinsonii, for example).

Cultivation

Fascinating, particular, bizarre but “touchy” plants, Melocactus are certainly not among the simplest cacti in terms of cultivation. Their life and consequently the level of cultivation can be divided into two phases: pre-cephalian and post-cephalian. Before the formation of the cephalium  the Melocactus can be treated exactly like most cacti and  also tolerate minimum winter temperatures close to zero Celsius degrees. Once the cephalium has formed, cultivation becomes more demanding: the plants no longer tolerate repotting, unless you simply remove the plant from the old container to gently insert it into a new pot without touching the roots (even in these cases, however, some specimens can go into stress and stop growth). Furthermore, since the plant has reached the adult stage, it is advisable  to avoid the winter cold and the Melocactus, from mid-October to the end of April, must be placed in environments sheltered from the rain and where the minimum temperatures do not drop below 15-16 degrees. They can also be placed in the apartment, in a bright place, but they must be watered in moderation no more than once a month and only to prevent the root system from drying out completely. If the stem does not show signs of suffering (in other words if it remains swollen and turgid) it is also possible to limit winter watering to once every two months, so as to further reduce the risk of collar rot.

As far as the substrate is concerned, whether the plant is still young or has a cephalium, the situation does not change and  the Melocactus need very draining and light soils. You can use the tested mix based on peat, pumice and lapilli in equal parts (possibly reducing the peat part and increasing the pumice or adding river gravel or quartzite), or you can create a substrate starting from common clay (a maximum of 20%) by adding a little sand, a little peat (10%) and for the remainder various inert materials such as pumice, gravel or quartzite.

No particular indications regarding  watering and fertilization: during the growing season, Melocactus (with or without cephalium) must be treated like most cacti, with regular watering every two weeks and three or four fertilizations at most. Finally, as far as exposure is concerned, these plants need a lot of light but not necessarily direct sun, which can burn or discolor the epidermis since the thorns are thick enough to protect it from the intense rays of the sun in July and August, especially between noon and 3 pm. A shaded greenhouse, a windowsill, a balcony or a terrace facing Southeast will be ideal and if the direct sun hits the plants throughout the day, it will be sufficient to place the Melocactus in the shelter of shrubs or large plants.

Sowing

The sowing of these cacti is simple and also suitable for those who intend to practice. The fruits are produced autonomously by the plants and emerge from the cephalium during the summer. It is sufficient to extract them by gently pulling the “petiole” formed after the flower has dried, but be careful: it is advisable to wait until the plant has expelled the fruit for at least half of its length. The berry must be able to slip off without any effort; otherwise it should be left in place because tearing the fruit would put the plant at risk, which would end up with a broken and moist berry inside the cephalium (actually, a gateway for pathogens and bacteria). Once the berries have been removed, they are left to dry for a few weeks, then they are opened and the round, black and small seeds are extracted. The sowing procedure is the same that we adopt for almost all cacti (the seeds do not require any  treatment) and growth during the first few years is not particularly slow. With the matanzanus species, for example, 7-8 years are “sufficient” to obtain plants with cephalium.

Main problems

Overall, Melocactus are quite robust plants and if well cultivated they are not subject to adversity in a different way than other cacti. They are certainly  particularly sensitive to water stagnation, especially in winter, therefore it is advisable, with these plants, to always have a light hand when it comes to watering. A phenomenon that frequently affects Melocactus (and which can happen with any cacti, albeit less frequently) is the loss of the root system. Often, even without apparent causes, in the absence of parasites and without having repotted, the roots of Melocactus go into “tilt”. It almost always happens with specimens equipped with cephalium and when we realize it, it’s too late to intervene: the stem dehydrates, deflates and despite watering it does not regain volume. The problem is that a plant with a cephalium seems almost incapable of reforming its root system. In other words, no matter how much care we give to the specimen (flaring it, cleaning the roots, removing the dry ones, placing the plant on pumice), the touchy Melocactus always seems to prefer a slow agony rather than reforming the roots and starting again, as does the most cacti. The sad consequence is that the specimen can remain alive even for two or more years, until the water reserves accumulated inside the stem are completely consumed…

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Culivation cards in pdf
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Cacti and succulents: seasonal care
Distribution of cacti and succulents: maps
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L'articolo How to cultivate Melocactus, cacti that with age put on… the hat (“cephalium”)! proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

And if it is true that the Copiapoa grown in their habitat have colors and thorns capable of fascinating even those who are not fond of cacti, it is equally true that with correct cultivation even specimens obtained from seeds can become splendid and incredibly attractive plants. Just to enhance the beauty of the stems and thorns of these plants, I have elaborated some photos of my specimens, cutting them out and making them stand out against a black background. The results are exceptional, as shown in the gallery contained in the following article. (…).

I won’t dwell here on the correct cultivation of the Copiapoa, since you can get very detailed information at this link, where you can find the cultivation sheets of the various kinds of cacti. Suffice it to recall here that the specimens of the cinerea species have the particularity of producing a gray wax to protect the stem, with the primary function of limiting transpiration and helping the plants to bear long periods of drought. And if it is true that it is above all in their habitat that these plants produce large quantities of wax, it is equally true that with targeted cultivation and good experience it is possible to obtain excellent results even in “captivity”.

Also for this reason, the illicit trafficking of these plants – as well as criminal – is senseless, also considering that a specimen extirpated from its habitat has little chance of surviving for long once it enters a private collection, perhaps on the other side of the world (the Copiapoa are native to Chile). With regard to an important operation to combat the clandestine trade of these plants, you can read the article I wrote some time ago on the Atacama operation, which saw Italy as a protagonist, for better or for worse. Find the article at this link in the italian versio of the website (you can translate it with the internal translator).

The purpose of this brief article is rather to show the Copiapoa in all their splendour, highlighting their strengths, i.e. shape, color of the stem and thorns. This explains the choice of “isolating” (ie “cutting out”) the photos of some of my specimens and placing the image on a black background.

Let the photos do the talking: click on the image to enlarge it.

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Correlated articles

Cactus cultivation cards
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

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L'articolo Her Majesty the Copiapoa: a series of exclusive photos enhances the beauty of this extraordinary cactus proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

We see them in detail in the following article (…).

Premise

By the time of June, two first dangers for succulent plants should have passed by now, if we have done everything correctly (and regardless of the fact that this spring has been quite anomalous). I am referring to the danger of cracks on the cacti stems and that of burns following a late or “hasty” exposure. Once the cacti have resumed vegetating after the winter stasis, in fact, it may happen that following the first waterings (if too abundant or too close together) the stem “splits”. In this period of the year, even in the case of a wet and cold spring like the latter, cacti and succulents should have already received at least two or three waterings and the stems of the plants should have swollen. If the recovery has taken place gradually and the plants have returned swollen, the risk of stem splitting for this year can be said to have been archived.

In some ways similar speech in terms of exposure: to date all the plants should have been in their ideal location for some time now, where they will remain until autumn. In other words, those who kept cacti and succulents in the basement, entrance halls or garages should have moved the plants to full light (or half light depending on the genre) by now, under penalty of etiolation. Abruptly moving the plants now, with the June sun starting to get stronger, can expose the plants to the risk of severe burns on the stems. Whether the spring is cool or not, whether it is humid or not, the plants must be gradually accustomed to intense sun or direct sun and this must be done between the end of March and the beginning of April. In this way cacti and succulents are able to get used to direct sunlight very gradually, strengthening the epidermis well before the summer sun hits them. If you haven’t moved your plants yet, do it immediately but repair them with shading nets (especially during the hottest hours of the day), otherwise the first burns will begin to appear in the coming weeks!

Maximum air

Having exhausted the necessary premises, which are nothing if not common practices in the correct cultivation of cacti and succulents in general, we recall that the main element of cultivation, at this point, is trivially… the air. Trivially, because this element is often underestimated, or even not considered at all, taking it for granted. The air, on the other hand, is the main factor for the healthy growth of any plant and in this season, with temperatures starting to rise significantly (on sunny days in a completely open greenhouse it can easily exceed 40 degrees Celsius already in June, let alone August), the plants need as much air circulation as possible.

Anyone who cultivates in a very large professional greenhouse will have to open the structure as much as possible, raising the side curtains and possibly leaving the front and rear doors open. Those who cultivate on balconies and terraces should have no problems whatsoever, while those who cultivate in those small greenhouses covered with a transparent cloth must do nothing but… get rid of the greenhouses, remove all the plants from there and disassemble the greenhouses, which can return comfortable, at best, in winter (although they are still not the best due to the limited air circulation they allow). In this period, if we keep the plants in this type of structure, even by raising the openings in the transparent sheet to the maximum, we will still not be able to ensure the plants the air they need, and with high temperatures and humidity the risk of “boiling” plants or creating the ideal environment for the formation of molds and fungi is very high. Therefore, if you haven’t already done so, remove the greenhouses (which can be simply used as shelves) and, since the plants will not be sufficiently accustomed to the intense sun, shield them with a not too light shading net.

The importance of air and light for succulents plants.

Watering and aestivation

In this period, even if the temperatures are not yet very high this year, it is advisable to increase the frequency of irrigation. If the days are sunny and the weather does not predict rain for the following days, it can be watered once a week. The pace can also be increased to two waterings per week for some species or succulent leafy plants if slight wrinkling is noted. As always, the basic rule is to water only when the substrate appears dry and, if in doubt, postpone it. Beware of the hot months, i.e. July and August, when the difference between the maximum and minimum night-time temperatures is minimal: in conditions of persistent heat, many cacti and many succulents can go into aestivation, slowing down or blocking their growth. In these periods it is better not to water at all, since the plants do not absorb water and the soil would remain moist for too long, with the risk of root rot being triggered.
A few more waterings will have to be reserved for very young plants and seedlings, which are not yet able to tolerate long periods of drought in hot conditions and, at the same time, “push” more than adult specimens.

On the phenomenon of aestivation you will find a specific article at this link.

Fertilization and treatments

In June it is still possible to fertilize succulents. A fertilization is enough, assuming that a first fertilization was given in May or April. If the plants have been repotted a few months ago it will not be necessary to add fertilizer to the water, but if we are dealing with specimens that have lived in the same soil for years, an extra fertilization can be useful to replenish the nutrients once present in the substrate. Pay attention to the product (whether it is in powder or liquid form, it matters little), which must be specific for succulent plants and therefore low in nitrogen and rich in phosphorus and potassium, in addition to microelements. During the real summer, that is in the months of July and August, the fertilizations must instead be suspended.

As for treatments, for years I have minimized the use of pesticides and I only use copper oxychloride and Neem oil. The first is a fungicide which should be administered by nebulization only in the months in which the plants are not in vegetation (in this period it should therefore be avoided). The second is a natural product, with low environmental impact, against parasites, mites and with a modest fungicidal function. Neem oil can be administered, always by nebulization, even in this period, with the foresight to act only when the sun has gone down or early in the morning, before direct light reaches the plants. Targeted fungicides and insecticides can be used in specific cases, for example in the event of an attack by the cochineal or rot that affects several plants. In these cases it is always important to isolate sick specimens from healthy ones and carry out targeted treatments every two weeks.

Here you will find a detailed article on the main adversities of succulents, with general indications on how to intervene.

Always remember that the best weapon against pests and diseases of succulents is correct cultivation, in particular a spartan cultivation, with lots of light, lots of air, little fertilization and little fertilizing.

To repot or not to repot?

In this case there is no definitive answer: during the summer it is possible to repot. Personally I prefer to avoid – except in cases in which the intervention cannot be deferred as the plant is in evident state of suffering and has probably lost its roots – and to postpone repotting until the end of winter and spring. With new purchases, especially if the plants are in peat, repotting is instead recommended at any time of the year: it is better to stress the plant a little rather than leave it in an unsuitable substrate, running the risk of triggering rot. As always, if you repot and clean or shorten the roots, it is important to leave the flared plant in a shady place for at least ten days before repotting. After repotting, wait another week or two before watering, so as to give the roots time to heal effectively. This precaution is especially important in spring and summer, when the plants are growing and are watered regularly: obviously in winter the problem does not arise, since many succulents and almost all cacti must be kept in dry soil.

Other practices

Otherwise, summer is a relatively quiet time for the cactus and succulent grower. It is sufficient to observe the specimens and understand whether they are slowing down their growth (aestivation) or not and adjust accordingly with watering. Finally, a little maintenance certainly doesn’t hurt: you can cut the now dry floral stems in the case of plants such as Aloe, Echeveria, Crassulaceae, etc., just as it is a good thing to remove the dried flowers of the cacti, which with watering they soak in water and can feed molds and fungi.

Seasonal cures in detail

If you want a complete picture of seasonal care, with everything you need to do in spring, summer, autumn and winter to take care of cacti and succulents in the best possible way, you can consult this summary article.

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Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents: when and how
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

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In this article we see how to make a proper substrate for use with any genre of cactus and, with appropriate adjustments, with succulents, in general. We will make it, and this is the point of this article, with materials that anyone can now easily find in any place (…).

Introduction

One characteristic that any substrate for cacti and succulent plants, in general, must have is the ability to drain water and dry quickly. It is the starting point, the end to which we must strive if we want to make good potting soil for succulent botanical families. The materials we can use are virtually limitless and can also vary according to the type of cultivation we want to pursue. Spartan cultivation to obtain plants similar to those in the wild, “push” cultivation to have plants that are swollen and “immaculate-looking,” “maintenance” cultivation, that is, with no particular purpose other than to grow the plant properly, etc. The combinations we can make with various materials are virtually endless and, theoretically, we could try to prepare a suitable substrate for each individual species that we intend to grow. Each plant has its own specific needs, and even among cacti, there are the species that want more organic material, others that want exclusively mineral potting soils, others that require lime substrates, and so on.

Of course, this fact opens the door to experimentation, which I recommend to anyone who has the time, desire and curiosity to test various substrates to figure out which is the best formula for this or that kind of plant (obviously in combination with the other growth factors, such as water, exposure, temperatures…).

Here you will find an article related to one of the experiments I have done over the years.

The “common” materials

After this long introduction, going back to the purpose of this article, which is nothing more than to provide basic directions for making proper soil for cacti and succulent plants using only materials readily available in any nursery and building materials retailer. Yes, because while it is true that online we can buy (up to certain quantities, of course), peat, quartzite, gravel, sand, gypsum, pumice, and lapilli of all colours and sizes, as well as potting soils specially made for cacti or succulent plants, it is equally true that good compromises can be made with “common” materials, especially if you don’t want to have too many problems.

Field soil and marl deserve a separate discussion. Field soil means clay, which can be more or less calcareous, more or less sandy, and more or less rich in nutrients. In short, there are endless types, and the best way to know whether or not that field soil, mixed with aggregates such as gravel, pumice, and sand, is suitable for cacti is to experiment with it for at least a couple of years. We can say the same thing for marl, a material exceptional for growing different kinds of cacti (if you are unfamiliar with marl, find a specific article here). Marl is almost impossible to find commercially, and even when you get it, you should be careful because there are various types, and not all of them are good for cacti.

Learn more about using field soil and marl in cactus substrates in this specific article.

The classic mix

A first viable option for those who want to avoid problems, as I have written on several occasions, is the traditional mix of equal parts lapilli, pumice and peat. It is the most popular potting soil for growing cacti and succulents, especially in skilled nurseries. In principle, it gives good results with all cacti, even working very well for leafy succulents (e.g., Crassula, Echeveria, etc.) simply by adding a little peat or earthworm humus, to make the substrate a little richer organically. Pumice and lapilli usually come in sizes between 3 and 7 millimetres, and this type of substrate is easily found online or at skilled nurseries. Unfortunately, it is not yet found commercially in all nurseries or gardens that do not specialise in succulents.

This is the article’s main focus because this substrate can be made without difficulty by retrieving materials from any large nursery or garden store.

First of all, the peat. It is the organic component of the substrate that contains the nutrients needed by plants. Most cacti, in nature, live in organically poor soils, which is why in the correct substrates intended for these plants peat should never be prevalent. Again, peat retains moisture for a long time, while the basis of a valid substrate for succulents, as we have seen, is the ability to drain water and dry quickly. For these reasons potting soils intended for cacti, it’s a good idea not to use peat percentages of more than 40 per cent. With some species, particularly those with “taproots” (e.g., Ariocarpus), the amount of peat will have to be decidedly small: a maximum of 20 per cent of the total. On the contrary, in leafy succulents is correct to provide at least 50 per cent peat because these plants need more organically “rich” potting soils. At the same time require greater amounts of water than cacti (their substrate will therefore have to remain moist a little longer to allow the roots to absorb the necessary water).

Peat can be found in any nursery: in fact, it is the material that makes up all so-called ‘universal potting soils’, i.e. intended for any genre of plants. At the same time, peat is the basis of all other packaged potting soils that we find in gardens: from those for citrus trees to those for ornamental plants, turf, acidophilic plants, and aromatic plants. All these potting soils are composed mainly of peat (there can be different types, but it is always peat) and, as appropriate, small percentages of sand, perlite, or pumice. The only potting soil not to be considered with succulents is orchid-specific potting soil, which contains no peat (or very little of it) and is composed mainly of bark.

The same ready-made potting soils for cacti and succulents are nothing more than peat with a little sand, pumice or perlite. On their own, they are no good, but they can be considered on par with peat or universal potting soil, with the advantage that they will already contain some sand, perlite or pumice.
For the rest, one ready-made potting soil is as good as another: what matters is that it is of good quality and that the peat is fine and not rich in filaments, bark, timbers, and other things. If we want to be precise and have a choice, we use blond sphagnum peat, which is slightly acidic and is fine for most succulents.

As an alternative to peat, since from a sustainability point of view, its consumption on a global level has become excessive in recent years, one can use earthworm humus, which can be found in all nurseries.

The other two elements of the traditional mix are pumice and lapilli. You can find both in well-stocked gardens, with one “flaw”: the size is almost always coarse, around 10 millimetres. There are no problems if you have to re-pot large succulents. But if you have seedlings to be placed in 5 or 7-centimetre pots, there are two alternatives and you have to be patient: you can either sift the material keeping the smaller part, or you can use the hammer (with a greater dose of patience) and break pumice and lapilli into smaller pieces. Of the two materials, in my experience, pumice is best, simply because it dries faster. With these three elements (universal potting soil, pumice, lapilli), we can already make a perfect substrate that is very popular in growing cacti and succulents. Mix well one part peat (as a unit of measurement, you can use the scoop) with one part pumice and one part lapilli, and the substrate is ready. If it is intended for leafy succulents, add a couple of scoops of peat to the final mix; if you intend to use it for “mangy,” very moisture-sensitive cacti, reduce the amount of peat by half.

The ‘simple’ mix

A valid alternative to the classic pumice/lapillus/peat mix, which can also be found for sale online or in large bags at some nurseries specialising in succulents, is the potting soil that I have prepared in the video published below. It is an even simpler but perfect substrate for almost all cacti and succulents, which I use when I finished my specific mixtures. Again, the starting point is peat. If the universal potting soil is of good quality, there will be no need to sieve it because it will not have any residual bark, coconut fibre, wood and other ‘impurities’. Good quality universal potting soil, it bears repeating, is usually peat of two or three types already sieved fine (and even this is fine because we will be adding the ‘coarse’ part to the compost), and added with a little pumice or, more often, perlite.

To one part peat, we add one part pumice and half a part fine sand, and the substrate is ready. As I have written before, the pumice we find in gardens is usually coarse-grained but can be sieved or crushed if necessary. Sand, on the other hand, is easily found at building material dealers. Caution: it must be river sand, preferably silica sand. Avoid sea sand. As I pointed out, in this substrate to one part peat and one part pumice I add only half a part sand because fine sand is only very useful in small quantities. If we were to make potting soil with only fine material (sand, pure peat or pumice powder, for example), we would create a potential succulent ‘killer’. In fact, after a few waterings, the substrate would compact and remain constantly moist, causing asphyxiation and root rot. Therefore, it is essential to have both a fine part (useful for rooting) and a coarse part in the substrate, which can make the soil ‘loose’ and increase its drainage capacity.

As I explain in the video, we can make small changes to this mixture if necessary so that it is also perfect in specific cases. For example, if we have to re-pot leafy succulents or hardy plants such as Echinopsis or epiphytic cacti such as Epiphyllum or Schlumbergera we can increase the amount of peat a little (add a couple of shovelfuls at the end and mix everything well). On the contrary, if we are dealing with delicate, slow-growing and particularly sensitive to stagnation plants such as Ariocarpus, Pelecyphora, Aztekium, Copiapoa and others, we can halve the amount of peat and add gravel or quartzite to the substrate.

The latter are also readily available materials in any city. Gravel (with a grain size of between 3 and 5 millimetres) can be found at building material dealers, often mixed with sand. In these cases, with a bit of patience and a fine-mesh sieve, you will be able to separate the sand from the gravel and thus be able to use them in separate dosages. On the other hand, quartzite can be found in aquarium shops or pet shops. There are countless types of quartzite: it can be bought in various sizes and colours. Just be sure it is not “treated” or in any way coloured material.

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Correlated articles

How much light do cactus need? A summary table
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use
When and how fertilize cactus and succulent plants

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo A good cactus potting soil with materials readily available in any nursery? Here is how to do it proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In cacti, as well as in agaves, this is a common phenomenon, and in some species, it never happens, in others it very easily happens, even with young plants. Attention: we are not talking about true seedlings born under the stem of the mother plant from seeds that have fallen from the latter, but about authentic new bodies that are attached to the main stem and sprout from the latter, and then grow steadily in size. The correct term is “suckers”, and anyone who grows cacti or has looked at this plant family in a nursery or botanical garden will have seen one or more suckers. Why do cacti produce suckers or pups, which genera are more likely to suck and are less so? And again, the most frequently asked question: is it true that pups steal energy from the mother plant and reduce flowering? Can the suckers themselves blossom? Another frequently asked question: is it better to leave them attached to the mother plant or remove them? Can they be used as cuttings to obtain new plants identical to the mother plant, and in the event of disease of the latter, can they be detached to save it and reproduce it? In other words, how to propagate cactus pups?

In this article, we take a closer look at the subject and answer all these questions (…).

Some premises to frame the topic

In order to frame the topic, let us start with the definition of “sucker” (or pups) taken from the booklet “Conoscere e Coltivare le Piante Succulente” (Knowing and Growing Succulent Plants) published in 2005 by the Italian Succulent Plant Lovers Association (AIAS). The glossary at the end of the booklet, under the heading “sucker”, reads: “Branch usually originating from an adventitious bud“. Let us supplement the description with the one given by Treccani online encyclopedia to the term “adventitious” so as to get the full picture: “An adventitious organ is said to be formed far from the vegetative apex of the axis and therefore on adult parts; as opposed to normal“.

So, talking about the sphere of cacti, it can be stated that cactus pups or cactus suckers are nothing more than branches originating from the main stem, born from adventitious buds, i.e. not at the plant’s apex. It is not by chance that the suckers are always located at the base of the main stem. Growing around it and contributing to giving the cactus the “tufted” habit that we are accustomed to seeing in, for example, Echinopsis, many Mammillaria, Rebutia and Sulcorebutia, to offer just a few examples. The phenomenon of suckering is also common in Agave: even relatively small specimens soon begin to produce suckers around the base, through which the plant can be easily multiplied.

The shapes of cacti: a specific article.

Therefore suckers are branches, not autonomous plants born from seeds originating from the mother plant, nor deformations of the stem. They are offshoots of the plant, which develops and grows in this way. The suckers (or pups), in fact, are attached to the mother plant. In some cases, the point of contact is extremely thin and delicate, so much so that a slight twisting of the sucker is sufficient to detach it. In other cases, especially after years, the point of contact is strong, and to take off the sucker it is necessary to cut it off.
The fascinating thing is that often the suckers behave as “abnormal” branches, in the sense that they do not simply develop while remaining dependent on the mother plant but produce autonomous roots themselves. This is particularly the case in cacti having a globular habit, which, thanks to the development of suckers, take on a bushy habit over time (e.g. Echinopsis). Proper branches, on the other hand, are generally produced by columnar cacti. This usually happens over a very long period of time and, in some species, exclusively in the wild, as with Carnegiea Gigantea (the so-called Saguaro).

Over the years, I have witnessed, particularly with Echinopsis, a particular phenomenon, the cause of which is not known to me: in long-since suckered specimens, the main stem has begun to wither and then dry up completely. On the contrary, the suckers around the mother plant have always remained in perfect health, so much so that all I had to do was to take them off and re-pot them (over time, they had produced perfect root systems) to save the plant and at the same time multiply it. All the plants to which this phenomenon happened were healthy and not subject to any attack by pests, and the central stem did not show any traces of rot (also because, in that case, it would soon have transmitted it to the suckers). Rather, it seemed to me that the central body, having exhausted its function as a ‘producer’ of branches, had just finished its life cycle, thus deciding to “take off the trouble” and let the descendants grow… In such cases, more for a simple aesthetic factor than anything else, I flared the plant, detached the suckers and re-potted them, throwing away the central stem, now dry and dead.

The function of cactus pups

Suckers or pups, again remaining in the Cactaceae family, are branches, as we have seen, so their function is no other than that which follows the plant’s normal development. Many cacti initially have a globular habit, with a single stem. At a certain point in their development, however, the plant begins to emit one or more branches, which over time grow to the same size (in many cases, not always!) as the main stem. As the years go by, the pups increase not only in volume, but also in number, and give the plant its typical tufted appearance. Here again, the most common example is Echinopsis. Therefore, it is incorrect to say that the suckers serve the plant to multiply since they are attached to the main stem and are only its extension. It is clear, however, that if for some reason (the passage of an animal, a storm, etc.), a sucker detaches itself, moves away from the mother plant and begins to sink its roots into the soil, it can perform the function of “reproducer” of the plant. This is what we can do by manually detaching the suckers and re-potting them in separate containers, with the effect to grow more plants (I will discuss this in more detail later).

Do all cacti produce pups or only some species do?

Absolutely not. Not all genera of cacti are prone to producing suckers. Even within the same genus, there may be species that readily suck and others that retain a single stem even as they age (e.g. the genus Mammillaria). Plants with a solitary stem that almost never suckers are, for example, those belonging to the genera Ferocactus, Astrophytum, Echinocactus, Copiapoa, Epithelantha, Turbinicarpus, Ariocarpus, Ancistrocactus. Beware, these are broad indications, because, in reality, any Cactaceae could emit suckers. If it does not do so because of a genetic issue, it could still do so because of an external factor. Which brings us to another question: can suckers depend on abnormal growth?

Abnormal growth and cactus pups: the differences

Even cacti that would not produce suckers except at a very old age, as some Echinocactus and Copiapoa, can suck as the effect of abnormal development of the main stem. This phenomenon always follows an episode of stress (environmental or “mechanical”). In other words, the plant reacts to unsuitable growing conditions by emitting suckers (probably to give itself a better chance of survival). Similarly, and very frequently, a cactus can begin to sprout pups following a parasite attack (mealybug, spider mite) or after a mechanical trauma such as a blow (moving or re-potting a plant can always happen, and it can get out of hand…). In all these cases, especially if the damage is near the apex, the plant may take on a habit that is not typical for that species and emit suckers. It has happened to me several times with Astrophytum, Copiapoa and Turbinicarpus: plants that, under normal conditions, would not produce suckers except at a very advanced age.

An important question: do suckered plants flower less?

One of the most widespread beliefs among succulent enthusiasts is this: the suckered plants do not flower or flower less than single-stemmed plants. This is a mistaken belief. It is clear that the suckers absorb water and energy together with the mother plant, and therefore both water and energy must be shared between several subjects, but it is equally clear that, since they are branches, everything contributes to the common cause, i.e. to the development of the plant, whether it is a clumped or a solitary plant. It may be the case that in the initial phase when the suckers are still small, the mother plant will flower less profusely, but we take into account that once the suckers have grown, they will begin to bloom, contributing to the overall result.

As far as my own experience is concerned, for about thirty years I have never seen any significant reduction in the flowering of suckered plants. I have several plants of the same genus and species, and when a single specimen flowers, the suckered specimen of the same species also flowers. In all these cases, there is little or no difference in flowering. In short: I have never had single plants with ten flowers and suckered plants (obviously of the same species and obtained from the same sowing) with only one. On the contrary, it happens to me every year that in the rectangular pot full of Echinopsis oxygona that I keep on my balcony at home, the many heads produce 15 to 20 flowers at a time.

One thing, however, can be said with relative certainty: the suckered plant has less vigorous and slower growth than the plant without suckers. In other words, if the specimen is surrounded by suckers, the same genus and species growth will be less noticeable overall, as it is spread over several bodies. If the plant is solitary, it is clear that it will concentrate all its energy on the single stem, with the result that growth will appear more evident and faster.

Is it better to keep suckers or to detach them?

When we talk about cactus pups, one of the most common questions is: is it better to keep them or to detach them? If we think about it, it is a question whose only sense can be found in the aesthetic sphere. Whether a cactus produces suckers because it has suffered damage, or whether it produces them simply because it decides that this is what it must do, does not change the substance: the plant is just following the course of Nature.

The only answer to the question “is it better to leave the suckers or remove them” can only be: it is an aesthetic question. If you prefer the plant with a solitary stem, you can remove the suckers and use them as cuttings to reproduce the plant. If, on the other hand, you like the plant tufted, leave it to nature. Be careful, however: if you want to remove the suckers, only do so if they detach easily from the mother plant. If it is necessary to cut, e.g. because the sucker is very old and the junction point with the main stem is wide, it is necessary to cut exactly as we would do with a cutting, i.e. with a disinfected blade and taking care to sprinkle the wounds with healing powder (even ordinary cinnamon powder is fine), both on the mother plant and on the sucker. Apart from the aesthetic factor, which for me also includes the “philosophical” one (because I prefer to leave it to nature, exactly as would be with the specimen in its habitat), there may be two valid reasons for detaching all (or only some) suckers. If a sucker is rotting, for example, it is obvious that we should remove it as soon as possible to prevent it from transmitting the fungus to the mother plant or the other suckers. Similarly, but in reverse, if the main stem is rotting or withered, it will be better to remove all the suckers and save at least those.

The second reason why it may be a good idea to detach one or more suckers is for the quick reproduction of the plant. In this case, it is enough to wait until the sucker is well-formed and has taken root. At that point, we can detach it and thus have one or more clones of the mother plant.

How to reproduce the plant by suckers and how to propagate cactus pups

Reproduction by suckers is a reproduction by cuttings: a piece of the plant is used to obtain a clone. With suckers, it is easier because (if we are not in a hurry) they are already formed and rooted plants. The procedure is very easy, especially if carried out during re-potting and with the mother plant unplanted. Detach the sucker by rotating it on its axis until the point of connection with the main stem gives way. If the connection with the mother plant is firm, it will be necessary to cut it off cleanly with a cutter. Once the sucker is detached, leave the mother plant in an airy place and avoid watering and misting for at least ten days so that the wound heals. We do the same with the sucker: leave it in a shady, airy place so that the junction with the mother plant dries out completely, just like the roots. After a week or two, re-pot the sucker in common cactus soil and wait a few more days before watering.

The best time for these operations, as the plant is reproducing, is late spring, after the plant has started to vegetate again. In this season, the suckers will be active and take root easily. The operation is to be avoided during the winter unless it is necessary to save the mother plant or the sucker.

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Correlated articles

How much light do cactus need? A summary table
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use
When and how fertilize cactus and succulent plants

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo What are cactus ‘suckers’ or pups? Is it better to remove them? Do they affect flowering? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.