In this article we deepen our knowledge of Echeveria laui, we understand why it has this appearance which is certainly not unique in the world of succulents but undoubtedly peculiar, and we learn how to grow it correctly. (…)

Premise

The Echeveria genus is part of the vast Crassulaceae family, leafy succulents with a variable shape from rosette to small tree. All Echeveria are native to the American continent and in particular to Mexico. Echeveria laui, in particular, is native to the Tomelin Caňon area, in the Mexican state of Oaxaca. The name of the genus was coined by the Swiss botanist Augustin Pyrame de Candolle (1778-1841), who in this way wanted to pay homage to the Mexican artist, botanist and naturalist Atanasio Echeverría y Godoy, to whom we owe a great deal of research (together to other botanists and researchers) on Mexican flora and fauna.

The stem of Echeveria is always rosette-shaped, initially flattened but over time tending to rise slightly in height following the development of the central stem from which the leaves branch out. And already in terms of leaves, the laui species differs from the majority of Echeveria: if generally the rosettes of these plants are made up of elongated leaves that end in a point, those of the laui species are blunt, rounded, almost ovoid, and give the together an even more harmonious and “soft” appearance.

Specifically, E. laui is a species (according to some authors it would actually be a hybrid) described for the first time in 1976. The plant immediately received great favor among nurserymen and collectors precisely because of its unique appearance in Crassulaceae family.

The wax coating

The real peculiarity of the laui species, however, is the massive production of wax coating (“farina” or cuticular wax) which entirely covers the leaves. The farina is nothing other than a wax produced by many succulents and some cacti (an example above all, the genus Copiapoa with the cinerea species), which serves to limit the transpiration of the liquids contained in the stems or leaves and to protect the plant from the sun’s ultraviolet rays. The wax is whitish and it is not it that gives the plant its blue color. As in many Echeveria, in fact, it is the leaves that are blue in colour, in the case of the laui more intense: the strong presence of wax accentuates this color and gives the plant a “waxy” appearance or similar to that would be obtained by painting the rosettes with blue paint (a very different thing from the horrible practice of actually painting the succulents with brightly colored paints to increase their sales!).

In some succulent plants – for example Copiapoa – the wax coating can be compact and resist watering. This is not the case with Echeveria laui: it is enough to touch a leaf with a finger to ruin the homogeneity of the colour. For this reason this plant must be watered from below, by immersion, or by wetting only the soil, avoiding watering from above, like rain. Any treatments with products such as Neem oil, copper oxychloride, etc., carried out by nebulization, should also be avoided. Finally, be careful when repotting, for obvious reasons. The task of flaring and repotting a plant by touching it as little as possible is undoubtedly difficult, but with some precautions it is possible to carry out the operation while limiting the aesthetic damage to a minimum. For example, you can grab the plant at the base, especially if you are dealing with specimens of a certain age, since in this way you can only touch the central stem. Or you can delicately hold the plant by the edges of the basal leaves and then grab the block of soil to place it in the new pot without touching the central part of the plant.

Cultivation

The cultivation of Echeveria is simple and within everyone’s reach and the laui species is no exception (except for what concerns watering and repotting, to be carried out with the precautions described above). Echeveria laui is a robust plant and resists prolonged drought as well as cold very well. Like all Echeveria, it fears water stagnation and should therefore be grown in substrates suitable for cacti or in substrates with 40% peat and 60% inert materials such as pumice, lapillus, gravel. Thanks to the strong presence of wax coating, E. laui resists direct sun well (if gradually accustomed from the end of March) but the ideal is to place it in a place where direct sun is limited to half a day. For the rest, lots of indirect light so that the plant can produce wax coating and maintain its compact appearance.

Watering must be moderate: water from mid-March to the end of October only when the soil is perfectly dry and fertilize with a specific product for succulent plants (with low nitrogen content) a couple of times a year.

During the winter, Echeveria should be sheltered from the rain but should not be brought indoors. In fact, these are plants capable of withstanding the cold very well, even up to 2 Celsius degrees above zero, with sporadic peaks at zero degrees. It is essential that the soil is dry from the end of October and that the plant has as much air as possible available. In the cold, the blue rosettes of E. laui can take on beautiful pink shades.

Where to place succulents in winter? Two very useful handbooks.

The growth times of this species are rather slow. The young plants grow relatively quickly in the first two or three years, then they slow down and it takes six to seven years to have rosettes of at least ten centimeters in diameter (the largest specimens can reach 15 centimeters in diameter).

Flowering

The flowering of E. laui is not dissimilar to those of other Echeveria species: the floral stem, up to 30 centimeters long in adult specimens, develops in late spring and between the end of spring and summer. It emerges from the center of the rosette (although in some cases there may be multiple stems, one from the center and others from the sides of the rosette), grows in height and then takes on an arched shape. The actual yellow and orange flowers form from the stem, protected by thick, fleshy bracts.

Propagation

The propagation of this wonderful succulent takes place in spring and can be done through sowing or, more simply, by leaf cutting, as for any other species of Echeveria. It is sufficient to remove a well-formed leaf, let it dry for at least a week in a shaded place so that the “callus” forms on the part detached from the mother plant, and then place the leaf on sand or even peat with a few inerts (pumice, perlite). For the first few weeks you will not have to water but it will be sufficient to mist often. Over the course of a few weeks, roots or new, tiny leaves will begin to emerge from the attachment of the leaf to the rosette. For the first few months we proceed with frequent nebulizations and when the new plant begins to be characterized and equipped with roots we can proceed with the first repotting.

Adversity

Robust plants, Echeveria fear two things more than anything else: water stagnation, which leads to root rot, and cochineal. A common enemy of all succulents, cochineal can be cottony or radical. The first forms white tufts that nestle among the leaves, near the central stem; the second is decidedly more insidious since it hides in the roots and its presence is only noticed when repotting or, unfortunately, when it is too late and the plant shows signs of suffering such as the wilting of the leaves, often followed by induced rot from the weakening of the plant caused by cochineal.

To find out more about succulent parasites, learn to recognize them and intervene when necessary, you can read this article. Other articles on parasites and diseases of succulent plants are collected in this section of the site.

At this link you will find a detailed downloadable PDF sheet (4 pages) dedicated to the Echeveria genus.

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• Succulents
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• Repotting: all the articles

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L'articolo Splendid but… untouchable: Echeveria laui, when the sky is reflected in a succulent plant proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Those who have been cultivating cacti for some time know it well:  Melocactus  are as fascinating as they are “capricious” and you have to come to terms with it. In this article we deepen the knowledge with this genus, in particular from the point of view of the needs, so as to grow robust specimens and limit losses as much as possible. (…)

Introduction

It is usually said that Melocactus and Discocactus (similar genus in some ways) are plants that are loved and hated at the same time. Yes, because if in fact  Melocactus  have their own undoubted charm, at the same time they are among the most mangy cacti to cultivate. Or rather, all things considered, cultivation is not difficult, the fact is that these plants have a marked “tendency to suicide”: having reached a certain stage (almost always when they have formed the cephalium) they tend to lose their roots and only in rare cases they manage to reform the root system, unlike what happens with most cacti. In summary, it can be said that until Melocactus do not develop the cephalium, they have the same needs as other cacti and are not difficult to grow. Once the cephalium is formed – which is their characteristic element – they become extremely delicate plants,  they cannot bear repotting and do not tolerate low temperatures. All this in cultivation, since these plants abound in nature and manage to be quite long-lived.

Distribution and history

Fundamental, as for all plants, is the knowledge of the area of ​​origin of this genus, knowledge that can provide useful data for the cultivation of these plants. Well, all Melocactus are native to the warm areas of the American continent, in particular south-western Mexico, the Antilles, Cuba, Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, Ecuador and, above all, Brazil. It follows that these are cacti originating from the central belt of the continent, where temperatures are warmer than, for example, those of the American states or northern Mexico. It is precisely for this reason that Melocactus do not tolerate the cold, unlike most other cacti (except for epiphytes).

From a historical point of view, the Melocactus mark a starting point in the story of the study of cacti, since according to many sources, these plants were the first cacti encountered by Europeans during their expeditions to the Americas at the end of the fifteenth century. As far as it turns out, Christopher Columbus himself observed some specimens in the West Indies, precisely in conjunction with his landing on the American continent. It is clear that for Europeans, who did not know cacti in any way since these plants originate exclusively from the Americas, from a botanical point of view that meeting represented an enormous surprise. It is no coincidence that several specimens of these plants were sent to Europe to be subjected to in-depth studies (and it is to be assumed that only a very few specimens torn from their habitat arrived overseas alive and even those few, if equipped with a cephalium, lasted a few months).

If you want to learn more about the distribution of cacti and succulents in the world you can consult this article, complete with maps.

As further confirmation of what is reported by the sources, there would be the fact that the very name attributed to these plants would probably be the origin of the word “cactus”, deriving from the Greek “kaktos“. The latter term had actually been in use for some time to generically indicate thorny plants such as thistle or artichoke and on the occasion of the Melocactus discovery it was decided to keep it, simply by having it preceded by the terms “melon” (i.e. melon) and “ekinos” (i.e. “curly”, or “thorny”). It follows that the first Melocactus were classified as Echinomelocactus, a term later shortened to Melocactus. The first scientific descriptions of this kind date back to several centuries after the discovery, i.e. in the mid-eighteenth century and are by Carlo Linnaeus, botanist and “father” of modern scientific classification. In particular, Linnaeus described 22 species of Melocactus in his famous Species Plantarum, published in 1753. Over the years, many studies followed one another and today this genus has around thirty species in all.

A short description

Regardless of the species, Melocactus are plants with a globular habit, tending to become short-cylindrical with age. The stems are solitary and have no tendency to bunch or shoot, except as a result of trauma. The dimensions of these plants can be defined as medium and range from twenty centimeters in height of M. matanzanus (the smallest and earliest species to form the cephalium) up to one meter in height, without however counting the cephalium, which can reach about thirty centimeters in the oldest specimens. The stems are generally bright green to dark green in colour, but do not lack the bluish tinge typical of the azureus species. The bodies of the plants are divided into very marked ribs capable of thinning or expanding (“accordion”) depending on the quantity of water present in the stem. The spines vary according to the species: they form at regular intervals along the coasts, they are always pointed and never hooked, slightly curved downwards. In some species they can be robust and short, in others thin and up to ten centimeters long (M. ernestii). The color of the thorns is usually white, tending to gray over time (except in some species, where the spine is brown).

The analysis of the root system is interesting, probably this is the real weak point of these plants. The roots of Melocactus are usually underdeveloped, fibrous in the part close to the stem. Here is what George Thomson notes in his volume “Melocactus” published by Cactus&Co Libri (2009): “This means that even modest damage in the first few centimeters of the root can lead to the loss of the entire root“. And this could actually explain why, once the cephalium has formed, it is advisable to avoid repotting these cacti. Thomson observes again: “The roots are very sensitive and the plants lose them easily in case of prolonged periods of drought or in conditions of stagnant water”.

The cephalium

As we have seen, the cephalium represents the element that distinguishes this genus, although over time other genera of cacti also form what is called “false cephalium” (for example the Discocactus). In Melocactus the cephalium represents the watershed that separates the “juvenile” age from the maturity of the plant, i.e. the moment in which the latter is able to flower, produce fruit and therefore reproduce. Before the formation of the cephalium, the Melocactus develop the stem, which almost always takes on a short-cylindrical shape with age. The Melocactus produces offshoots very rarely and generally do so following an arrest in growth caused by a parasitic attack or, in any case, following a trauma sustained during growth, in particular at the vegetative apex. Once the adult stage is reached, after six or seven years in the earliest species (M. matanzanus) or after at least ten years in other species, the stem stops growing and the plant concentrates its energies on the production of the cephalium, which it forms at the apex of the plants and is composed of short, bristly and thick hair, usually red or white. From this moment on, only the cephalium will grow, which in some species reaches 4-5 centimeters (M. bahiensis), and in others it can reach twenty centimeters (M. peruvianus), giving the plant a bizarre appearance. Here is what George Thomson writes about it in the aforementioned “Melocactus – care and cultivation”: “It has been demonstrated that a large part of the stem of a mature Melocactus comprises only juvenile tissue with a transparent epidermis, and the adult tissue, without stomata, is mostly confined to the central nucleus of the cephalium. This juvenile tissue in the stem of melocactus is probably the reason why it is very difficult, though not impossible, to revive a plant that has lost its roots”.

It is from the cephalium that, during the summer, the flowers are formed, which are tiny in size and vary in color from pink to magenta, and subsequently  the fruits, which appear in the form of oblong, smooth, white, pink or red. The growth of the cephalium in height is annual and in some cases it is possible to observe the layers which make evident the annual development of this curious organism. Finally, in some specimens, it is possible to observe the dichotomization of the cephalium, i.e. its division into two distinct parts according to a phenomenon common to other cacti, in which the vegetative apex can divide (dichotomize precisely) and give life to two distinct “heads” (the phenomenon often occurs in Mammillaria parkinsonii, for example).

Cultivation

Fascinating, particular, bizarre but “touchy” plants, Melocactus are certainly not among the simplest cacti in terms of cultivation. Their life and consequently the level of cultivation can be divided into two phases: pre-cephalian and post-cephalian. Before the formation of the cephalium  the Melocactus can be treated exactly like most cacti and  also tolerate minimum winter temperatures close to zero Celsius degrees. Once the cephalium has formed, cultivation becomes more demanding: the plants no longer tolerate repotting, unless you simply remove the plant from the old container to gently insert it into a new pot without touching the roots (even in these cases, however, some specimens can go into stress and stop growth). Furthermore, since the plant has reached the adult stage, it is advisable  to avoid the winter cold and the Melocactus, from mid-October to the end of April, must be placed in environments sheltered from the rain and where the minimum temperatures do not drop below 15-16 degrees. They can also be placed in the apartment, in a bright place, but they must be watered in moderation no more than once a month and only to prevent the root system from drying out completely. If the stem does not show signs of suffering (in other words if it remains swollen and turgid) it is also possible to limit winter watering to once every two months, so as to further reduce the risk of collar rot.

As far as the substrate is concerned, whether the plant is still young or has a cephalium, the situation does not change and  the Melocactus need very draining and light soils. You can use the tested mix based on peat, pumice and lapilli in equal parts (possibly reducing the peat part and increasing the pumice or adding river gravel or quartzite), or you can create a substrate starting from common clay (a maximum of 20%) by adding a little sand, a little peat (10%) and for the remainder various inert materials such as pumice, gravel or quartzite.

No particular indications regarding  watering and fertilization: during the growing season, Melocactus (with or without cephalium) must be treated like most cacti, with regular watering every two weeks and three or four fertilizations at most. Finally, as far as exposure is concerned, these plants need a lot of light but not necessarily direct sun, which can burn or discolor the epidermis since the thorns are thick enough to protect it from the intense rays of the sun in July and August, especially between noon and 3 pm. A shaded greenhouse, a windowsill, a balcony or a terrace facing Southeast will be ideal and if the direct sun hits the plants throughout the day, it will be sufficient to place the Melocactus in the shelter of shrubs or large plants.

Sowing

The sowing of these cacti is simple and also suitable for those who intend to practice. The fruits are produced autonomously by the plants and emerge from the cephalium during the summer. It is sufficient to extract them by gently pulling the “petiole” formed after the flower has dried, but be careful: it is advisable to wait until the plant has expelled the fruit for at least half of its length. The berry must be able to slip off without any effort; otherwise it should be left in place because tearing the fruit would put the plant at risk, which would end up with a broken and moist berry inside the cephalium (actually, a gateway for pathogens and bacteria). Once the berries have been removed, they are left to dry for a few weeks, then they are opened and the round, black and small seeds are extracted. The sowing procedure is the same that we adopt for almost all cacti (the seeds do not require any  treatment) and growth during the first few years is not particularly slow. With the matanzanus species, for example, 7-8 years are “sufficient” to obtain plants with cephalium.

Main problems

Overall, Melocactus are quite robust plants and if well cultivated they are not subject to adversity in a different way than other cacti. They are certainly  particularly sensitive to water stagnation, especially in winter, therefore it is advisable, with these plants, to always have a light hand when it comes to watering. A phenomenon that frequently affects Melocactus (and which can happen with any cacti, albeit less frequently) is the loss of the root system. Often, even without apparent causes, in the absence of parasites and without having repotted, the roots of Melocactus go into “tilt”. It almost always happens with specimens equipped with cephalium and when we realize it, it’s too late to intervene: the stem dehydrates, deflates and despite watering it does not regain volume. The problem is that a plant with a cephalium seems almost incapable of reforming its root system. In other words, no matter how much care we give to the specimen (flaring it, cleaning the roots, removing the dry ones, placing the plant on pumice), the touchy Melocactus always seems to prefer a slow agony rather than reforming the roots and starting again, as does the most cacti. The sad consequence is that the specimen can remain alive even for two or more years, until the water reserves accumulated inside the stem are completely consumed…

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L'articolo How to cultivate Melocactus, cacti that with age put on… the hat (“cephalium”)! proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Cacti are plants that have made drought resistance their strong point. These are “xerophytic” or “xerophilous” plants, i.e. plants capable of accumulating water reserves for surviving in arid and semi-desert environments. If this is the rule, there is no lack of exception, which is represented by the epiphytic cactaceae. We are still in the Cactaceae family, but these are very particular genera, starting from their habit, which thrive in rainforests and which in sub-desert areas would not be able to survive. Epiphytic cacti are widespread on the market and in cultivation, just think of the Epiphyllum genus, but they have particular and very different needs compared to most cacti, starting from the substrates, passing to the water regime and to the exposure. And this is why it is important to know which genera of cacti belong to the “epiphytic branch”: because in cultivation we will have to ensure very different conditions for these plants compared to those we can – and must – guarantee for genera such as Ferocactus, Echinocactus, Ariocarpus, etc.

In this article, therefore, we see what the epiphytic genera are, what their needs are and how they should be cultivated (…).

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L'articolo What are epiphytic cacti and how to cultivate these plants native to rainforests? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

It’s a bit like that shy and reserved distant relative: everyone in the family knows he exists, but little or nothing is known about him, or his history. Those who grow cacti and succulent plants, those who are used to attending market-exhibitions of succulent plants, those who hang out in well-stocked nurseries, have certainly observed more than one specimen. Many enthusiasts have one or more specimens in their cacti collection. Yet, very little is known about this Echinopsis Haku-jo. In the many texts dedicated to cacti (not only in Italian) the plant often appears in photographs but the information is always scarce; online there are only brief synthetic cards, almost always accompanying the specimens for sale. For the rest, nothing. The history of this cultivar (a plant that does not exist in nature but obtained through hybridization and crossbreeding by man) remains shrouded in mystery.

In this article I try to summarize what I have learned in years of cultivation and what I have managed to learn about this intriguing Echinopsis cultivar, whose flowering is among the most bizarre in the whole family of cacti (…).

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L'articolo Echinopsis Haku-jo, the cactus with mysterious origins: it does not exist in nature but it’s very popular on the market proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Living tangles of incredibly intricate spines, “globes” wrapped in beautiful, deep yellow spines. This is how Ferocactus johnstonianus could be defined, perhaps hastily but at the same time realistically. We are talking about one of the most appreciated and sought after species among enthusiasts of the Ferocactus genus throughout the world. These are relatively uncommon and poorly propagated plants, not easily available on the market. They also do not grow quickly, and perhaps these are some of the factors that contribute to fueling the charm of johnstonianus. In these days of repotting I have had the opportunity to focus on some specimens of this species that I received a few years ago from my friend Francesco Soldi, a highly experienced italian grower especially with regards to the Ferocactus genus, although today he is concentrating on the Echinocactus genus and in particular on the horizonthalonius species. Well, the plants I got from him a few years ago initially grew very slowly – mostly my fault, because I put off repotting for a long time and used an excessively poor substrate – but in the last two years, also thanks to a slightly richer substrate, have recovered and today they are well characterized and proportioned and are starting to show their full potential.

In this article here is an in-depth look at this splendid species. (…)

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L'articolo Johnstonianus, the most beautiful and sought after species of the entire Ferocactus genus proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Let’s go into detail and get to know this plant and its needs better in the following article (….).

Introduction

As is often the case with plants, the classification of species included in the Titanopsis genus is debated and depending on the author/researcher, Titanopsis species can range from three to six. On the other hand, taxonomy is a complex and constantly evolving matter, as I have highlighted in a specific article that you can find at this link.

Description

Limiting ourselves to the “calcareous” species of the genus Titanopsis, we can first of all say that this Mesembriantemacea is easily identifiable even by the less expert eye: the stem is made up of groups of leaves up to 5-6 centimeters wide, which depart from the center and end with the apex rounded, spatulate, arrowhead. The surface of the leaves, especially the apical part, is covered by point-like reliefs similar to warts, which contribute to giving the plant that “lumpy”, rock-like appearance. The color decisively contributes to the overall result: the leaves in fact have a color ranging from blue to greyish (with a tendency to darken and redden if exposed to direct sunlight), with the reliefs of a lighter colour, gray to reddish.

Cultivation

Regarding the cultivation of this particular succulent, I have often found, both online and in various books, approximate or conflicting indications. The controversial element is that relating to irrigation: some sources advise treating this plant like a cacti, thus suggesting that it be watered only from spring to the beginning of autumn; other authors suggest a similar approach to the one recommended for Lithops, i.e. watering from May onwards, suspending it in the summer months and resuming it moderately in autumn.

In the past years, struggling to extricate myself from conflicting indications, I decided to carefully observe my Titanopsis calcarea to try to understand in which months the plants vegetated and in which they went dormant (at least in the Northern hemisphere), so as to adjust the watering accordingly. For a year I therefore almost completely suspended the irrigations, letting the plants “talk” with growth, flowering, color change, etc. For several years now, on the basis of my observation, I have therefore adopted a specific watering regime for the Titanopsis: I water in moderation, reducing the watering to once a month, from January to the end of April. With the arrival of spring and the first heat, I suspend irrigation because I have noticed that these plants begin to slow down the vegetation until it stops completely in summer: the stems deflate and the leaves retract until the plant slightly sinks. I start watering again, always in moderation and sporadically, only when the heat lets go, around October and until the end of November. In the autumn period I noticed that Titanopsis calcarea resumes vigorously vegetating, swelling the stem until it “re-emerges” from the ground, putting on new leaves and, later on, starting to prepare the buds (from the end of November).

Regarding the substrate, the sources are generally less conflicting and my own experience has taught me that these plants want a very poor soil, almost completely devoid of organic matter (peat or humus). For several years I have kept my Titanopsis calcarea in a mix based on clayey field earth with little or no limestone (about 20% of the total), sand, pumice (at least 40%), quartzite and gravel. I add just 10% earthworm humus to the substrate to make the soil a minimum of nutrients, also considering that I don’t fertilize these plants. On the surface I place fragments of white limestone, which over time and with watering turn yellowish, harmonizing perfectly with the plants from a chromatic / aesthetic point of view.

In terms of exposure, the Titanopsis like full light, but I have never placed my specimens in direct sun, limiting myself to keeping them in an unshaded greenhouse, protected only by the transparent sheet of the roof.

Finally, the temperatures. Also in this case I noticed a discrepancy between the sources, with some authors recommending not to keep the Titanopsis at temperatures below 10 degrees. Also in this case, I have directly experienced and for at least seven years I have kept my Titanopsis calcarea at minimum winter temperatures close to zero, with some sporadic peaks below zero. It is essential that the temperature rises during the day, so as to keep the plants in force, which I also water in the cold months, as I wrote, albeit sparingly.

On the whole, by observing these few precautions, I can consider the Titanopsis calcarea a succulent of easy cultivation, although with a relatively slow growth, as demonstrated by the photos side by side on the cover of this article, with the same specimen photographed five years later (on the left in the 2015; on the right the same plant in 2020).

Flowering

Flowering coincides with the winter months. In my case (northern Italy) the Titanopsis calcarea flower regularly in the period between mid-December and the first half of January. The flowers, medium in size compared to the plant, emerge from the attachment of the leaves and in my specimens they are white (however, I have also seen plants with yellow flowers: I think this is the norm) with a slight pink shade at the apex of the petals. They open from rounded “calyxes”, glabrous and of the same color as the leaves.

Reproduction

The reproduction of the Titanopsis calcarea is mainly carried out by sowing, but it is also possible to multiply the plants with the method of dividing the tufts, separating the autonomous ones, ie those with their own root and which detach easily from the mother plant. I have no evidence about the multiplication by cuttings, i.e. detaching the leaves to put them to root: I have never tried and I fear it is not feasible with these plants.

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L'articolo Titanopsis calcarea, a winter flowering succulent with particular cultivation rules proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

This peculiar cactus has a debatable scientific name and a slew of common ones.  Echinocatus texensis is an extraordinary cactus, not very well known, and relatively uncommon in cultivation, yet it possesses all the characteristics that make a cactus well-worth growing.  These include its compact and rounded appearance, robust and colourful spines, beautiful blooms, resistance to drought and high tolerance to direct sun as well as tolerating low winter temperatures.  In addition, it has very decorative deep-red fruits (some of the most beautiful among cacti) and a relative simplicity of cultivation combined with a high predisposition for using the “wild” technique.  This means reproducing, as much as possible, the conditions that cacti grow in their habitat, and paying attention to the substrate, direct exposure to the sun, very spartan cultivation, etc.

Origin and habitat

Echinocactus texensis (or Homalocephala texensis according to the original classification by Britton and Rose) is a cactus native to the south-eastern United States, particularly in New Mexico, southwestern Oklahoma and a good part of Texas (hence the name given to this species).  It also grows in some Mexican regions, particularly in the north-eastern areas of the Sierra Madre, in Coahuila, Nuevo Léon, and Tamaulipas states.  According to some sources, this species also grows in Chihuahua, Durango and Zacatecas. E. texensis grows from near sea-level up to 1,000m in very heterogeneous sub-desert areas: from xerophilous (arid) scrub to grasslands, broad clearings in forested areas, plains, valleys, and low hills. This indicates that the soils into where E. texensis sinks its roots can be highly variable, but are primarily calcareous and sandy. One thing is certain, and that is that this cactus almost always grows hidden among grasses or in areas where there is some vegetation consisting of bushes and small shrubs.  The presence of shrubs and grasses indicate a substrate richer in organic matter than that in which some other cacti thrive (eg Ariocarpus and Pelecyphora).  Dying and decomposing as an effect of short life cycles resulting from the aridity of these regions, the grasses enrich the organic component of the soil, and provide nutrients that would not otherwise occur.  We therefore need to bear in mind then that in cultivating E. texensis we should think about using substrates that are not too poor in organic material, in particular with young specimens.

Classification and common names

If the scientific name is debatable from the point of view of classification, namely Homalocephala texensis or Echinocactus texensis, then common names abound.  In the US, where these plants grow, they are called Candy Cactus, Devil’s Head Cactus, Devil’s Pincushion, or Horse Crippler.  In Mexico, E. texensis is also commonly called Mancacaballo, Monco Caballo or Viznaga (Anderson, 2001: 227–229). Regarding its scientific classification, for many years this plant has been included in the genus Homalocephala by Britton and Rose, where it contained just one species, H. texensis.  Later on, several authors decided to eliminate the genus Homalocephala and move the species texensis into the genus Echinocactus, together with the species grusonii, platyacanthus (ingens), horizonthalonius, parryi and polycephalus. In recent years, reopening the debate, many researchers believe it is appropriate to restore the genus Homalocephala, including the species texensis, parryi and polycephalus.  In support of this, a study by several authors (Vargas-Luna et al, 2018), address the issue from a genetic point of view.  In the introduction, the authors argue, “…we propose to recognize a monophyletic Echinocactus and a monophyletic Homalocephala as two distinct genera with their molecular and morphological synapomorphies”. In summary, if we follow their work, the genus Echinocactus will contain only the species grusonii, platyacanthus and horizonthalonius, and the genus Homalocephala will include texensis, parryi and polycephalus.

To further complicate our lives, we find that in the original genus Echinocactus there were four taxa: E. polycephalus subsp. xeranthemoides, E. polycephalus subsp. polycephalus, E. horizonthalonius subsp. nicholii (L.D. Benson) and E. horizonthalonius subsp. horizonthalonius (Coulter, 1896, Benson, 1969).  Strictly speaking, accepting the new distinction, the two E. polycephalus taxa would now be considered to belong to the genus Homalocephala.

Description

Echinocactus (or Homalocephala) texensis is a solitary plant that does not offset, even in old age (unless it has suffered damage to the growing point).  The formative stem shape is globular, but with time it assumes a flattened shape, depressed at the apex.  In nature, the body can be up to 20cm high, with a diameter of about 30cm.  The stem is divided into very pronounced ribs with a thin, sharp edge; in adult specimens, the number of ribs varies from a dozen to 25, Anderson (2001) records 27, and Lodi (1997) 25.  The body colour is light green or dark green (during the winter, it can redden, especially along the ribs) and the areoles, from which the spines appear, are quite widely spaced.  In young specimens, the areoles are woolly, a detail that is common to all Echinocactus, at least in their development phase.

The spines, initially thin and weak, become wide, thick and very strong.  In adult specimens, there are six radial spines (Lodi notes 6 or 7 of them) up to 4 or 5cm in length, and a central spine up to 7cm long (exceptionally even more), thick and broad, flattened, sharp and slightly curved downward at the end. Some may have a short, thick central spine. I think this variability may be determined by a genetic response to local conditions. New spines are red, but they tend to fade to pink, greyish and almost white lower down.  The spine surface shows transverse ridges that testify to the age of the plant.  They are velvety to the touch, and when wet, the spines of E. texensis take on a brilliant, showy, bright-red colour. The phenomena of longitudinal ‘splitting’ of the central spine is sometimes observed in E. texensis, in effect producing a forked central spine. I have observed this in photos, but it has never happened in my collection.

Flowers, fruits and seeds

The flowers of E. texensis are pale pink to white, with a red or orange throat, and emerge at the apex in spring, usually around April.  The corollas can reach a diameter of 5–6cm, and the tepals have the peculiarity of terminal fringing. The yellow stigma lobes provide a handsome contrast.  The aspect and consistency of the flowers are reminiscent of silk.  I am not aware that the flowers are self-fertile (ie able to pollinate themselves).  Nevertheless, I have noticed that both pollination and the consequent formation of the fruit are very easy. The fruits, which form from the end of May, are very large and showy (up to 3–4cm in diameter and 4–5cm long), fleshy, and at the same time extremely firm in texture.  They are bright red and have smooth skin interspersed with small scales.  According to some authors, the fruits are edible, and because they are (or were) utilised for producing candies, these plants are also called Candy Cactus.  However, I do not have any direct evidence of this, and the definition of Candy Cactus could be simply due to the appearance of plants with ripe fruits, which can resemble small sweets. The seeds are medium-sized, not as large as those of Opuntia, for example, but easily handled, oblong and black in colour with a shiny cuticle.

Cultivation

The cultivation of E. texensis is easy enough, much like all species in the genus Echinocactus, with the exception of E. polycephalus, which is regarded as difficult and not recommended for the less experienced.  In over twenty years of growing E. texensis I have noticed only one problem, which is that this plant seems to be inclined to lose its roots much more easily than other cacti.  In my opinion, it may be due to environmental stress or using the wrong potting soil. Over the years, I have experimented with different soils for E. texensis, from purely mineral substrates to mixtures richer in organic matter (peat or earthworm humus).  The results indicate that these plants need a fair amount of organic matter in the substrate, not only when they are still seedlings but also as adults. It is no coincidence that the best results have been obtained by growing E. texensis in a mix of equal parts of pumice, grit and peat.  I had mediocre results with potting soils made of field soil (loam), aggregates such as pumice, and a small part of peat or humus (maximum 10%).  I have never experimented with marl (a type of fine clay) with these plants, but I do not rule out trying it as soon as possible in percentages not exceeding 50% and with the addition of at least 30% organic material. E. texensis, like all Echinocactus, need lots of light. As the plants reach at least three or four years old, from the end of March, they will benefit from being gradually introduced to full sunlight. Proper exposure will go a long way toward forming strong spines and keeping the body low and compact.

As far as temperatures are concerned, these cacti are very tolerant and resistant.  They can easily stand the blazing sun with more than 40°C, provided they are kept outdoors and have plenty of air movement.  During the European winter, if kept completely dry from late September, they can go well below freezing without damage.  I had specimens that have spent a few nights at -10°C and, except for a slight reddening of the epidermis, which disappeared with the arrival of spring, they did not suffer any damage.  According to some sources, E. texensis can withstand temperatures as low as -18°C, but I have no direct experience of this. The watering and fertilising regime does not differ from that of most cacti.  I give plenty of water in the growing season, from April to September, as long as the soil has time to dry between watering, and no water at all from the end of September to the end of March.  Some recommend watering E. texensis lightly, but even using potting soils with 30% organic content, I have never experienced rot, even with heavy watering.  I keep several specimens outside the greenhouse, which have experienced a week’s worth of rain on several occasions with no loss of life or damage.

All my plants, including E. texensis, receive a low-nitrogen cactus fertiliser a couple of times a year during the growing season as the slightly more organic substrate which I use already helps provide some nutrients. I have noticed that E. texensis comes into growth quite early, at least here in Northern Italy, starting from the end of February, when they begin to produce new spines.

Propagation

The only way to reproduce this species is by sowing seed, since they do not produce offsets.  The procedure is probably easier when compared to the sowing of some other cacti by the fact that the seeds of E. texensis are easy to handle because of their larger size.

According to most growers, E. texensis seeds do not need any special treatment, such as scarification, which is necessary or strongly recommended to germinate Echinocactus horizonthalonius, E. parryi and E. polycephalus.  From my experience, E. texensis seeds germinate well without any treatment.  However, some growers suggest that scarification could further increase germination if done correctly. I have always sowed E. texensis in natural light and heat, in April, without any particular procedure, except to soak the seeds for 24 hours with the sole purpose of hydrating them and softening the cuticle, which seems to me to be quite leathery.  I am planning some experiments with both scarified and non-scarified seeds, having many at my disposal originating from plants grown under the same conditions.

How to sow cacti and succulent plants.

Literature

• Anderson, E. F. (2001) The Cactus Family. Timber Press.
• Lodi, G. (1997) Le mie piante grasse. Edagricole. pp 75–76.
• Vargas-Luna, M D et al (2018) Splitting Echinocactus: morphological and molecular evidence support the recognition of Homalocephala as a distinct genus in the Cacteae. PhytoKeys 111: 31–59.
• Vermeulen, N. (1999) Cactus. Idea Libri Srl. pp 56.

Correlated links

Cultivation cards in pdf
Knowledge and curiosity
Echinocactus grusonii: a little history
Wild cultivation

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L'articolo Echinocactus texensis, an in-depth study of the “horse crippler” proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In this article, we’ll learn how to cultivate the “Christmas Cactus”, for obtaining its abundant blooms without any problems. (…)

Schlumbergera is, in fact, a very popular houseplant during its flowering period, also because it’s very decorative and hardy, and its flowers are persistent: they can last a couple of weeks or more, which for a cactus is quite a long time. On the market, you can find specimens with blooms of almost every shade, from fuchsia to red, to pink, white, yellow or orange: the endless hybridizations for the commercialization of these plants have led to an almost infinite range of colours.

Schlumbergera are native to South America, in particular to Brazil. This implies that these plants are not able to bear too low temperatures. They like minimums of no less than 7/10 degrees.

Here you can find an article about the distribution of cacti and succulents in the world.

Their cultivation is quite simple. When the plant produces new “articles” during the growing season, it’s better to keep Schlumbergera outdoors. It’s better if in a bright place, not exposed to direct sunlight. In fact, in-kind these cacti live in the shelter of leafy plants, so that light reaches them shielded.

The soil must be, as always, well-draining, but lusher than the ideal soil for most cacti. For these plants, 70% of peat or universal soil and 30% of inert material (sand, gravel, pumice) can be enough. When we buy them, these plants are in a soil consisting exclusively of peat, just like most cacti from nurseries that do not specialize in succulents or cacti. However, if for all other cacti it is a good idea to remove the peat and thoroughly clean the root system and then repot in proper soil, for Schlumbergera it can be difficult and often disastrous. The root system of these succulents is, in fact, contained and formed by thin roots, and a careful cleaning could seriously damage it, with the result, moreover, that the various “stems” that make up the plant would not be more stable once placed in the new substrate. For this reason, making an exception to the usual procedure, with this plant I simply remove the old pot, shake out a bit the soil to remove excess peat (without breaking the root block) and repot in larger pots with more draining soil.

Watering must be regular in spring and summer (be careful, however, to stagnate, since it uses a mainly peaty soil) and very spaced in autumn/winter. In summary, we can say that the substrate must be almost always wet, except in winter, when it can be left to dry well between one watering and the other.
During the winter months, you can keep the plants at home, keeping them warm, or, even better, in little heated and luminous rooms.

From the first half of November, at least on the two specimens, I have had for several years, buds begin to form, which open in the first weeks of December. It’s commonly said that Schlumbergera, once they have started to produce buds, should not be moved because they will lose their bloom. From what I’ve been able to verify, the warning is not entirely unfounded, at least during the initial stage of bud formation. In the past, it happened to me to bring a Schlumbergera indoors and see it loose all of its buds within a few weeks. For the past few years, I’ve taken the plants indoors only when the buds are about halfway through their formation: they settle in smoothly and bloom abundantly. For flowering, in any case, the general rules for cacti apply proper cultivation and winter rest, with the difference that Schlumbergera must be overwintered at temperatures not too low and with sporadic watering even in the coldest months.

The multiplication by cuttings of these cacti is quite simple: in spring it is enough to detach a well-formed article and place it on the sand, nebulizing from time to time. After a few weeks, the first roots will sprout, and the new plant will begin to develop. When the roots become sufficiently formed, it can be repotted in suitable potting soil.

You may also be interested in “How to repot cactus“, or “Identify and classify succulent plants“.

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L'articolo Schlumbergera, the “Christmas cactus”: how to make it bloom in all its abundance proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.