For any plant enthusiast, whether succulent or not, planting is an extremely important point of arrival. An arrival point which, in many cases, soon turns into a starting point which accompanies the enthusiast for most of his life. It is undeniable that there is no comparison between a purchased plant and one we have seen born, grow and develop from a tiny seed, even more if we have collected that seed from one of our plants. This is somewhat the “magic” of sowing: closing a circle born of a flower with another flower, the one produced by the plant originating from that first seed that we have been able to germinate, become a plant and lead to full maturity. And all this without going into detail about the satisfactions that are obtained by trying to select particularly interesting species, from flowers of unique colors to peculiar or almost unique thorns or stem shapes. As regards the procedure for sowing cacti and succulents, many novice growers “get lost” in the proverbial glass of water right after the phase least subject to our control, i.e. germination: we cannot in fact force a seed to germinate, although there are good practices that favor the birth of plants.

For many, however, the critical issues begin after that moment, that is to say in the first months of life of the plants, which are indeed delicate months because the seedlings are still weak and easily subject to rotting or parasitic attacks. It is above all to these growers that the following article is addressed, with a little “trick”, to be understood as advice, on how… to make life easier for seedlings and how to let them pass the first winter unharmed. (…)

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L'articolo Sowing cacti: how to prepare plants for the first winter and the “trick” to help them in the first few months proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Would you throw away that specimen of Echinocactus grusonii you see in the photo above? Obviously the answer is no. Indeed, with such perfect thorns it would be a crime to let such a plant die. Nevertheless, a few years ago, when that plant was still a few months old seedling, I was about to throw it away! No, I hadn’t suddenly gone crazy, simply this plant, around 2015, was just one of the many grusonii seedlings obtained with a particularly lucky sowing (that is, characterized by high germination). What you see in the picture was the only seedling born from that sowing to have reached the stage of the first repotting in pitiful conditions, to the point that, convinced that it would not even pass the first repotting, I intended to throw it together with the sowing soil. Today, almost ten years later, that malformed, underdeveloped and sickly-looking seedling has become exactly as you see it in the photo I took a few days ago.

Here, in the following article, is the story of this plant, a plant that has been able to teach me an important lesson: never judge a book by its cover. In life as well as when dealing with Nature. (…)

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L'articolo Here is the story of an Echinocactus grusonii born to lose but alive to win! proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

When many plants are grown in a relatively small space such as that offered by a greenhouse (however wide it can be), it can often happen to discover welcome surprises in the pots. Cacti whose flowers have been pollinated naturally by insects or self-fertile cacti, capable of doing everything by themselves, produce fruits which, once dry, split letting the seeds fall directly onto the soil at the base of the plant. This is how one can find specimens of a certain age surrounded by seedlings or small plants, in a sort of “potted” re-proposition of what commonly occurs in nature. In spite of what one might think by observing the precise procedures necessary for the reproduction of cacti, spontaneous sowing is a common phenomenon in cacti and is sometimes able to give real surprises, as has happened to me these days.

Here is a small report in the following article. (…)

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L'articolo Strange combinations of Nature: how did an onzuka end up in the pot of an old Thelocactus? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Reproducing cacti starting from seeds is one of the best ways to get to know these plants in depth. Through sowing we can in fact observe the entire life cycle of the plant, from birth to the production of the first flower, to aging and death. Without forgetting the great satisfaction that the birth of seedlings is able to offer to those who practice sowing for the first time as well as those who have practiced it every year for decades. Not to mention the first flower: getting to see that the plant that we have given birth from a small seed, after two years or after twenty years depending on the species, finally opens its flower… it is priceless, there’s little to do. But before getting to all this – with regard to the sowing procedure, remember that on this site there is an entire section with at least fifteen articles dedicated to this topic at this link – you need to get the seeds. Banal, obvious. But without those you go nowhere. And there are two ways to get the seeds: buy them from specialized retailers (now almost exclusively online) or produce them with the manual pollination of your own plants. Or… simply collect the fruits that our plants have produced thanks to some pollinating insect, accepting the fact that two plants not of identical species may have been pollinated (and therefore we will be dealing with future hybrids), clean the fruits, store them and sow them in the spring.

In this article and in the related video we see how to clean and prepare the seeds for storage for future sowing. We sholud always remember that the seeds must be stored correctly, on pain of deterioration of the seeds and the consequent drastic drop in germinability. (…)

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L'articolo How to clean cactus fruits and how to store the seeds to reproduce our plants proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Ok, between one drop and another of condensation inside the bag we can see some tiny green dots. The seeds gave birth to the first seedlings, in short, our baby cacti. And now? How do we proceed with the sowing of cacti and succulent plants after the first germinations? Should we open the bags right away? Should we keep the seedlings in full light or is it better to place them in a sheltered place? Should we water regularly the seedlings or it’s better to let the potting soil dry out? And, finally, can we fertilize?

In this article, let’s see what to do once the seeds of cacti and succulents have germinated, in other words how to move correctly to help the plants grow and avoid making the work done with sowing in vain. (…)

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L'articolo Sowing cacti and succulents: what to do when the first little plants are born proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Why damn yourself with sterilized soil, perfectly clean pots, fungicide, transparent bags and so on, when you can let our plants do everything related to sowing? Exactly as it happens in Nature, in short. Jokes aside, those who have many plants know well that finding themselves with perfectly formed seedlings inside the pots, next to the mother plants, is far from rare. Generally we notice it during repotting, when we can observe our succulents with particular attention, because the spontaneously born seedlings are small and tend to “camouflage” themselves with stones and aggregates in the substrate, or they are found so close to the stem of the mother plant to be invisible to a superficial look. Over the years, in the pots of my plants, I have often found germinated and autonomously grown seedlings, in particular of genera such as Astrophytum, Epithelantha, Thelocactus, Mammillaria. A couple of years ago I even found a small plant of Euphorbia obesa already well formed, grown among the pebbles outside the greenhouse, in the shade of a large pot containing an Agave. Today the Euphorbia is in a 5 centimeters pot inside the greenhouse and continues to grow regularly. I had to reluctantly remove it from the outside and place it in a pot to prevent the cold and damp winter in North Italy from killing it, otherwise I would have gladly let it grow where it was born.

In these days, during the repotting of some Astrophytum capricorne of my sowing, I have found many seedlings and various seedlings born and grown independently in the pots of the mother plants (you can already see some of them in the cover photo, above). Hence the idea of ​​documenting and analyzing “spontaneous sowing” in the following article. (…)

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L'articolo Spontaneous sowing: when cacti do everything by themselves, just like in Nature proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Speaking of cactus sowings, a classic question, and one not infrequently asked with a fair amount of (unnecessary) apprehension, is: after how long should seedlings be repotted? In other words, when do the young seedlings need to be repotted and perhaps divided into individual pots? Again, as with many other “cactophilies matters”, the answer depends on various cultivation factors. Based on experience, however, it is possible to give general indications useful to those who experiment with sowing for the first time.

Let’s see in detail, in this article, everything we need to know about this fundamental step for the proper growth of plants from our sowing. (…)

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L'articolo When to pricking out cactus seedlings, how to do it correctly, and what potting soil to use proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In short, a kind of handbook to keep in mind every time to organize work, whether you have a greenhouse or a terrace, a balcony or even only a windowsill. Let’s see everything in this article. (…)

Spring

Let’s start our “seasonal care map” from Spring. Between mid-February and early March, many succulents begin to awaken from their winter slumber. The days become longer and the sun begins to warm a little more. We can notice the resumption of growth in some cacti and succulents simply by taking a good look at the apex, from which new spines and, in the case of succulents, new leaves will begin to sprout. In many cases, we can also see the presence of buds, particularly on genera such as Ancistrocactus, Mammillaria, Stenocactus (Echinofossulocactus), Strombocactus and Turbinicarpus.

An article and photo gallery with early blooms can be found here.

At this time of year I do some preventive treatments, mainly fungicide-based, since rising temperatures, when combined with higher humidity, can promote the onset of fungal diseases. So in early March I give a spray with water and copper oxychloride (the so-called “cupric” with its characteristic blue colour, which is also produced in an uncolored formula by Caffaro). I usually follow up a first spray, given strictly on a sunny day (but not under sunrays!), with a second one at a 15-day interval. The plants do stain slightly, but they will clear up after the first real waterings. I don’t give water (I mean watering the potting soil) before the end of March, even if the plants show signs of recovery. I prefer to be cautious and start watering only when the temperatures have stabilized and the plants are all growing.

Also as a preventive measure, spraying with a product against plant pests can be useful. About this, Neem oil is recommended, which is naturally based and gives a very high protection. For specific products against red spider mite and mealybug, the best is to wait a few more months, when temperatures will be higher and may, eventually, favour the arrival of these insects.

In this period of year is fundamental to start giving as much air to the plants as possible. If the lows no longer drop below freezing, except sporadically, it’s a good idea to partially open the greenhouse or uncover plants kept under “tnt” (nonwoven fabric) during the winter, while still keeping them out of the rain. Temperature changes are not a problem: even in nature, plants are subject to them and indeed benefit from them. From the end of February I generally raise the side sheets of my greenhouse by half a meter, so to let my plants having a good air circulation, and then raise them within a month or so. From the end of April, I also leave the front and back doors of the structure wide open, so as to ensure as much air circulation as possible.

Spring, or rather the end of winter, is a great time for repotting: the plants are about to wake up and there is still time before watering. We can then safely repot the plants that need it in the new potting soil, having so much time in front of us (at least a month) for any root wounds to heal before the substrate receives its first watering. If you can keep some plants in full sun, outside the greenhouse or on terraces or balconies without any cover, this is the best time to accustom cacti and succulents to direct sunlight again. The March sun is not yet strong, and plants that are already sufficiently formed (so not seedlings!) have time to get used to the bright light without burning their epidermis. Never put a plant in direct sun during the hottest months, such as July or August, especially if it has been kept in a greenhouse or otherwise covered by tarps or netting, or under the shelter of other plants. As an added caution, a light shade net can be useful for a few weeks if placed over the plants we put in direct sun in March. At the time of April, the net can be removed and the plants will not run the risk of sunburn.

The first waterings can be done, also depending on weather conditions, from late March onward (at least where I grow, in northern Italy). The first passes are done with water alone or with water and a systemic fungicide. Fertilizations, on the other hand, can be done from the third or fourth watering onward, when the root system of the plants is back in full working order.

Finally, again in spring, sowing can be done. Let’s say from when the minimum temperatures are no longer below 12/14 celsius degrees.

At this link is an in-depth look at what you have to do in spring to prepare cacti and succulents for growth.

Summer

Seasonal care begin to vary with the arrival of summer. From June through mid-August, cacti and most succulents are in full bloom. Blooms also abound during this period, when succulents want as much light and as much air as possible. In fact, succulents are able to tolerate very high temperatures (even up to 50 degrees), as long as they have air and water available when needed.

Plenty of watering can be done during this period, making sure that the water soaks the entire soil loaf and allowing the substrate to dry well between waterings. Plants kept outdoors can take rain even for several days in a row: if the soil is correct, they will not rot. Between June and August it is also useful to do some fertilizing: during the entire growing season, from March to September, I fertilize a maximum of three times. Watering can also be daily if the soil is very draining and if we are in warm, windy areas. In North Italy I have noticed that a good watering rate is once every ten days. This way the plants grow slowly but in a balanced way and I don’t run the risk of rot. It is different for seedlings, which I water once a week to encourage their development.

When temperatures rise it is possible for mealybugs and red spider mites to make their appearance. Treatment by spraying with specific products may be useful, especially as a preventive measure. However, at this time of the year avoid spraying with copper oxychloride fungicide, which should not be given during the growth phase because it can slow or stop vegetation. In summer it is good to be careful with plants that are kept in direct sun, that is not in a greenhouse or not sheltered: the sun could burn plants that are too young or not yet accustomed to direct rays, and high is the danger of hailstorms.

Watch out for the months of July and August: when temperatures are very high (especially the lows, to the point that the range between day and night is very small) many succulents go into aestivation, they slow down or stop growing altogether to conserve energy. Observation is key here to see if a plant has stopped producing new spines and if the apex tends not to develop. If plants are into aestivation, it’s a good idea to reduce or to suspend watering. In fact, in this condition the plant does not vegetate and therefore does not “drink.” If we water, we risk leaving the roots submerged in a soggy substrate for too many days, with the risk of root or collar rot setting in. Similarly, there are some genera, particularly those native to Chile, such as Copiapoa and Neoporteria, but also non-Chilean plants, such as Pediocactus and Sclerocactus, that stunt growth from July through August. These plants should be stopped watering altogether from the end of June, then resumed in September and, in moderation, watered during October as well.

Fall

Like spring, autumn is a delicate season for succulent plants. Here are some seasonal care for this time of the year. The days begin to shorten significantly from the end of August, and temperatures – usually – begin to drop. Humidity, on the other hand, remains high, especially at night. Plants, with the exception of some genera such as Copiapoa and Pediocactus, slow down their vegetation. It will be essential to observe cacti and succulents well to accommodate their needs and begin to reduce watering.

Based on the cold and wet climate in my growing area, in northern Italy, I usually water a couple of times during the month of September, and then suspend watering altogether until vegetative growth resumes (March). With the last waterings, adding fertilizer and a systemic fungicide against Fusarium, as a preventive measure, may be useful. Also for preventive purposes, in October or November it’s good to spray all plants with copper oxychloride (I usually do a first pass, followed by a second one a fortnight apart). Crucial, as always, is air: until the minimum temperatures drop drastically and steadily (say to 4 or 5 celsius degrees), I leave the greenhouse open, limiting myself to bringing home the few cold-intolerant species I grow, such as Melocactus, Discocactus, some Euphorbia and Adenium.

From late September, early October, I bring almost all plants back inside the greenhouse, to prevent them from getting rain. In fact, cacti must have time to prepare for the dry season by reducing fluids inside the stem and letting the substrate dry out before the first cold weather arrives. I do not repot in the fall unless strictly necessary (e.g., in the case of a plant in distress). I prefer to leave the plants alone at the delicate time of slowing and stalled vegetation.

Several genera flower in this season: among cacti, Ariocarpus, and among succulents, Lithops.

Winter

This is the quietest season: our seasonal care will therefore reduced to a minimum. Plants are in stasis, not growing, do not need to be watered (except for winter-growing species) and do not need to be fertilized. During winter there is also no need for fungal or pest treatments: if the plants are healthy, preventive treatments in the fall and spring are enough. In the northern hemisphere, from the end of October through the end of January, cacti go into stasis: they stop growing to regain energy and prepare for the new growing season. The substrate should be kept perfectly dry and the plants should be protected from rain. Those who have a greenhouse have no problem. Those who grow on balconies or terraces, on the other hand, can shelter the plants in cold, rain-sheltered areas. Even a garage may be fine, although a minimum of light is always good to ensure even for plants in complete stasis.

Cold and winter dormancy are essential for the balanced growth of cacti and for their flowering. Many species are quite cold-hardy and can be kept outside even in northern Italy: for example, Opuntia, Pediocactus, Agaves. If kept dry, almost all kinds of cacti can tolerate very low temperatures, even around zero celsius degrees minimum. Also growing some Euphorbia and other less hardy plants, I have found a compromise; in winter, in my greenhouse I have a thermostat that trips when the minimums goes below 4 celsius degrees.

Here you’ll find everything you need to know about minimum temperatures for cacti and succulent plants.

Winter is a great time for repotting: the plants are in stasis and are not affected because of any root cuts. Also, if we repot in January/February, we will be assured that any wounds to the root system can heal in time for the first watering, which will come no earlier than mid-March.

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Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents: when and how
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

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L'articolo Growing cacti and succulents: seasonal care and what needs to be done during the year proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

I usually sow between the end of March and the first week of April, always in natural light and heat. This year, given the unusually low minimum temperatures, I had to postpone it until mid-April. In these days I have taken advantage of the raising of the lows and the improvement of the days to sow some seeds that I obtained from my pollination last year and some recently purchased seeds. I sowed cacti exclusively: Copiapoa, Gymnocalycium, Pyrrhocactus, Astrophytum, Lobivia, Escobaria, Frailea, Leuchtenbergia, Ferocactus, Thelocactus and more. The seeds had been cleaned immediately after harvesting and stored properly. I have written several articles on sowing: you can find everything in this section of the site: sowing.

In this article I thought of creating a sort of sowing “tutorial”, photographically documenting all the various steps involved in my method. It’s good to specify it: it’s simply my method and I’ve been following it for years now, but it doesn’t mean that it can be good for everyone or that it can be comfortable for everyone (…).

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L'articolo Brief tutorial on planting cactus in natural light and heat: the various stages of the procedure proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

I confess: I do not have the skills nor the desire to build an artificial propagator. You can find detailed instructions and all the necessary information online, but I’ve never put myself there. This doesn’t mean that you can’t achieve good results even with traditional seeding. For over fifteen years, in fact, I have been sowing in spring with natural light and heat, using the classic “method of the bag”. I sow above all Cactaceae and, at the cost to being banal, I fully confirm what all plant lovers can tell you: it is from sowing that we can get the most satisfaction if we have this “disease” of cultivation. Moreover, it is only by the sowing that we can appreciate the different stages of development of a plant, follow its evolution from birth to flowering (a small-big event!), and get specimens able to adapt from the beginning to the conditions we can give them for the rest of life. For myself, another basilar aspect of sowing is that in this way I can have more specimens of the same species and genus, born in the same conditions, on which to test different growing regimes. In short, you start all, democratically, from the same point, then you see who arrives and how he arrives through different soils, different exposures, and so on. In short, different cultivation practices. So it’s clear that since the starting point is the same (the seed, which obviously must come from the same fruit) if the plants after a few years show significant differences between them, this will be mainly due to the different soil, the exposure, the irrigation and fertilization regimes used. And from this, empirically, useful lessons can be drawn.

Let’s explore the topic in the following article, describing sowing step by step. (…)

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L'articolo How to sow cactus and succulent plants: from pollination to the first flower, the procedure proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.