A spring that is struggling to establish itself, temperatures that fluctuate continuously with sunny and very hot days and gloomy days with the thermometer plummeting. Above all, heavy rain almost every day for at least a week, at least here in the North Italy. Many of us have already moved their cacti and succulents outside, or have removed the winter protections (non-woven fabric or transparent sheets). Many are worried, some run for cover by bringing the plants indoors, others are undecided about what to do… Is it really the case to worry about the combination of low temperatures and persistent rain?

In this article, here are some reflections and the answer to the question that many of you are asking me these days, as always based on what I have learned in years of cultivation (…).

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L'articolo The cacti, the spring that doesn’t come and the rain that doesn’t stop: should we be worried? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Now let’s see everything we can do at this time of the year, especially if we don’t have a greenhouse and we grow on the windowsill, on the balcony, on a terrace or in the garden. With a warning: whatever you have to do, with succulents and cacti, you must not be in a hurry: hurry to water, hurry to treat, hurry to move the plants… Getting caught up in the rush, the anxiety, the fear of doing something wrong, is the best way to run into mistakes. So let’s see how to avoid them. (…)

Check the plants

The first fundamental action in spring is to check the plant carefully for detecting any traces of bacterial diseases (dark spots caused by fungi) or parasites (particularly the mealybug/cochineal). In the first half of mid-March, even with healthy plants, it’s however advisable to carry out some preventive treatment by spraying stems and leaves with a specific pesticide (against mealybug and spider mite) and, about ten days later, with a broad-spectrum fungicide (attention: copper oxychloride should be used only when the plants are in stasis, so from March should be suspended). Both treatments – pesticide and antibacterial – must be repeated a fortnight after to ensure complete coverage of the plants.

Give as much air as possible

When the minimum temperatures have settled at 10/12 degrees, it’s essential to give succulents as much air as possible. Plants that have overwintered indoors (except for some species, a thing to avoid!) or in cold but closed environments such as a basement, a garage or a veranda should be moved outdoors and placed on windowsills, terraces, balconies. If plants have been overwintered outdoors, protected by sheets or layers of non-woven fabric, they should simply be uncovered so they can benefit from all the possible air. In these cases, it’s necessary to pay attention to the weather because prolonged rains in a period characterized by not yet high temperatures can be dangerous for succulents, which do not tolerate water stagnation in the soil and excessive humidity. The plants must be placed on a balcony or terrace protected from the rain or covered by a roof.

The sudden changes in temperature that characterize spring, with daytime highs above twenty degrees and nighttime lows that can drop sharply below ten degrees, should not worry: in nature, almost all succulents are exposed to similar conditions and indeed greatly benefit in terms of growth and flowering. Exceptions are succulents coming from areas close to the Equator, such as those from Madagascar (Adenium obesa, but also Uncarina, Alluaudia and Pachypodium) or some cacti coming from tropical regions of South America, such as Melocactus, Discocactus, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Rhipsalis: these species need minimum temperatures not lower than 15-16 degrees and to be moved outside only later, in late spring.

Air is of fundamental importance for any plant, even more so for succulents, which do not tolerate environmental humidity nor water stagnation in the substrate. In open-air, the soil dries faster, the stems can transpire effectively, and the risk of bacterial attack is significantly lowered. Tight, closed environments without air exchange are to be avoided, especially in spring and summer, when succulents are in full vegetation, and their tissues are swollen with the water that constitutes their water reserve, and it is, therefore, necessary that the soil dries quickly after the plant has absorbed the liquids it needs.

Exposure: getting plants used to it

Closely related to air is exposure to the sun. In spring (in march), it’s necessary to provide succulents with more light to encourage proper development of tissues, leaves and thorns and at the same time encourage flowering. Be careful, though: as with all plants, succulents (including Cactaceae) need to be grown gradually. Moving a plant that has spent the winter indoors outdoors and immediately placing it in full sun can be dangerous even for the most “fierce” and thorny cactus, which will suffer sunburn and stem discolouration. We will have to gradually accustom the succulents to the light, which becomes more and more intense in spring, exposing them to direct sun a little at a time. From the middle of March, it will be sufficient to place succulents on a windowsill exposed to the South or Southeast (exposure to the North is to be avoided because it does not provide enough light), or on a balcony, a terrace or directly in the garden, taking care, however, to place them in the shade of outdoor plants that will act as a screen to sunlight. Alternatively, it is possible to protect succulents with a simple gardening net or with a piece of mosquito net properly fixed to braces or supports and able to screen at least 30-40% of sun rays.

In the shade of other plants or screened by shade netting, succulents will gradually get used to direct sunlight, and within a month to a month and a half, you can bring them to the foreground or remove the shade netting. As far as exposure is concerned, it’s still important to know the needs of our succulents since there are genera that tolerate intense sun and others that prefer a little shade (like many species of Euphorbia or Haworthia, for example). When in doubt, it is good to provide succulents with bright light all day long, exposing them to direct sun rays only during the morning, not later than midday. In this way, it’s possible to avoid sunburns and to guarantee the necessary light for the best growth. Particularly for cacti, which will continue producing “important” and not stunted thorns and at the same time keep compact and harmonious stems. When we have a better knowledge of our plants and have learned their needs, we can be more “targeted” when they come to exposure and give the various specimens the right amount of direct sun (for example, in the case of almost all cacti).

To learn how to distinguish succulent plants and know their needs, you can read this article dedicated to classification.

Resume watering

As the exposure to light, which should be gradual, watering should be increased little by little. During the winter, watering should be suspended for almost all succulents, while in spring it’s necessary to accompany the resumption with initially moderate and then more sustained watering. As spring approcaches, in March (weather permitting) a couple of waterings will be enough, while in April, it will be possible to go up to one watering every ten days, making sure to wet well all the soil. From May, you can further increase the watering, reaching one per week. Be sure that between one watering and the other, the loam can dry completely. As always, the advice with succulents is not to overdo it: it’s easier for a succulent plant to die from too much water than from thirst. Consider that these plants are xerophytes, evolved to deal with long periods of drought: when in doubt, it’s a good idea to postpone watering. For regulating the frequency of watering, it’s fundamental also the composition of the soil: here, you will find the “recipes” of various substrates that I have tested over the years.

Fertilize: which products to use

With the arrival of spring and the increase in watering, it’s beneficial to fertilize (or “manure”) succulent plants to promote balanced growth and encourage flowering. As for any other plant, fertilizing is essential to replenish the soil with nutrients that are lost. However, you have to use a specific fertilizer for succulents and not rely on universal products or, worse, calibrated for other plants, such as orchids or horticultural. Wrong fertilization, both in terms of the type of product and frequency, can cause severe damage to the plant and compromise its growth, arriving, paradoxically, to weaken it, as well as deform the stem. Therefore, it’s necessary to limit fertilization (I am very stingy in this regard: two or three fertilizations per year, at most), to be administered by simple watering diluting the product in water, to a maximum of once a month from April until mid-June at the latest, with a further pass in September, before the plants slow down the vegetation.

As for the product, on the market, there are specific fertilizers for succulent plants, and generally, high-quality products have correct ratios between the various macroelements. Knowing how to interpret the label, however, is the first step. Basically, it is sufficient to verify that the level of Nitrogen (indicated with the initials “N”) is considerably lower than that of the other two macro-elements that make up all fertilizers for plants, namely Phosphorus (indicated with the letter “P”) and Potassium (“K”). As an indication, a good fertilizer for cacti and succulents should have 1 part Nitrogen, 2 or 3 parts Phosphorus and 4 or 6 parts Potassium. The dosages indicated by the various manufacturers are variable, but it will be enough to keep these proportions in mind to choose the correct product. According to the most commonly used formulations, we can have a ratio of 6-18-36, or 5-15-30, where 5 stands for the Nitrogen dosage, 15 for the Phosphorus one and 30 for the Potassium one. Balanced fertilizers are to be avoided, those with equivalent dosages of the three macroelements (for example, 10-10-10). In addition to the three macroelements, a good fertilizer for succulents should not lack the so-called mesoelements and microelements, such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, manganese, boron, copper, zinc, iron, which contribute to a balanced development of the plant in various aspects: root system, stems, thorns, flowering, disease resistance.

For the dosage, it will be sufficient to refer to the indications on the package, taking care to halve the quantities in order not to overdo the fertilization, since succulents are extremely adaptable plants with few needs in terms of nutrients, many of which are already present in the growing medium.

If you want to learn more about fertilization, you can read this specific article.

Don’t be in a hurry

In closing, by my experience and the constant contacts I have with readers and enthusiasts who ask me for advice, I would like to reiterate the concept expressed at the beginning of this article: with cacti and succulents, don’t be in a hurry, never anxious. Our plants are more robust and tolerant than we think: let’s make their time our own and not let ourselves be led by the frenzy of wanting to give them excessive attention. Let’s limit ourselves to the correct care and respect their times, which are decidedly less hectic and anxious than ours, remembering that the border between passion and obsession can be thin…

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Here is a video of me moving some of my plants outside my greenhouse:

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L'articolo Preparing cacti and succulents for spring: exposure, fertilizing, here’s what to do proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In short, a kind of handbook to keep in mind every time to organize work, whether you have a greenhouse or a terrace, a balcony or even only a windowsill. Let’s see everything in this article. (…)

Spring

Let’s start our “seasonal care map” from Spring. Between mid-February and early March, many succulents begin to awaken from their winter slumber. The days become longer and the sun begins to warm a little more. We can notice the resumption of growth in some cacti and succulents simply by taking a good look at the apex, from which new spines and, in the case of succulents, new leaves will begin to sprout. In many cases, we can also see the presence of buds, particularly on genera such as Ancistrocactus, Mammillaria, Stenocactus (Echinofossulocactus), Strombocactus and Turbinicarpus.

An article and photo gallery with early blooms can be found here.

At this time of year I do some preventive treatments, mainly fungicide-based, since rising temperatures, when combined with higher humidity, can promote the onset of fungal diseases. So in early March I give a spray with water and copper oxychloride (the so-called “cupric” with its characteristic blue colour, which is also produced in an uncolored formula by Caffaro). I usually follow up a first spray, given strictly on a sunny day (but not under sunrays!), with a second one at a 15-day interval. The plants do stain slightly, but they will clear up after the first real waterings. I don’t give water (I mean watering the potting soil) before the end of March, even if the plants show signs of recovery. I prefer to be cautious and start watering only when the temperatures have stabilized and the plants are all growing.

Also as a preventive measure, spraying with a product against plant pests can be useful. About this, Neem oil is recommended, which is naturally based and gives a very high protection. For specific products against red spider mite and mealybug, the best is to wait a few more months, when temperatures will be higher and may, eventually, favour the arrival of these insects.

In this period of year is fundamental to start giving as much air to the plants as possible. If the lows no longer drop below freezing, except sporadically, it’s a good idea to partially open the greenhouse or uncover plants kept under “tnt” (nonwoven fabric) during the winter, while still keeping them out of the rain. Temperature changes are not a problem: even in nature, plants are subject to them and indeed benefit from them. From the end of February I generally raise the side sheets of my greenhouse by half a meter, so to let my plants having a good air circulation, and then raise them within a month or so. From the end of April, I also leave the front and back doors of the structure wide open, so as to ensure as much air circulation as possible.

Spring, or rather the end of winter, is a great time for repotting: the plants are about to wake up and there is still time before watering. We can then safely repot the plants that need it in the new potting soil, having so much time in front of us (at least a month) for any root wounds to heal before the substrate receives its first watering. If you can keep some plants in full sun, outside the greenhouse or on terraces or balconies without any cover, this is the best time to accustom cacti and succulents to direct sunlight again. The March sun is not yet strong, and plants that are already sufficiently formed (so not seedlings!) have time to get used to the bright light without burning their epidermis. Never put a plant in direct sun during the hottest months, such as July or August, especially if it has been kept in a greenhouse or otherwise covered by tarps or netting, or under the shelter of other plants. As an added caution, a light shade net can be useful for a few weeks if placed over the plants we put in direct sun in March. At the time of April, the net can be removed and the plants will not run the risk of sunburn.

The first waterings can be done, also depending on weather conditions, from late March onward (at least where I grow, in northern Italy). The first passes are done with water alone or with water and a systemic fungicide. Fertilizations, on the other hand, can be done from the third or fourth watering onward, when the root system of the plants is back in full working order.

Finally, again in spring, sowing can be done. Let’s say from when the minimum temperatures are no longer below 12/14 celsius degrees.

At this link is an in-depth look at what you have to do in spring to prepare cacti and succulents for growth.

Summer

Seasonal care begin to vary with the arrival of summer. From June through mid-August, cacti and most succulents are in full bloom. Blooms also abound during this period, when succulents want as much light and as much air as possible. In fact, succulents are able to tolerate very high temperatures (even up to 50 degrees), as long as they have air and water available when needed.

Plenty of watering can be done during this period, making sure that the water soaks the entire soil loaf and allowing the substrate to dry well between waterings. Plants kept outdoors can take rain even for several days in a row: if the soil is correct, they will not rot. Between June and August it is also useful to do some fertilizing: during the entire growing season, from March to September, I fertilize a maximum of three times. Watering can also be daily if the soil is very draining and if we are in warm, windy areas. In North Italy I have noticed that a good watering rate is once every ten days. This way the plants grow slowly but in a balanced way and I don’t run the risk of rot. It is different for seedlings, which I water once a week to encourage their development.

When temperatures rise it is possible for mealybugs and red spider mites to make their appearance. Treatment by spraying with specific products may be useful, especially as a preventive measure. However, at this time of the year avoid spraying with copper oxychloride fungicide, which should not be given during the growth phase because it can slow or stop vegetation. In summer it is good to be careful with plants that are kept in direct sun, that is not in a greenhouse or not sheltered: the sun could burn plants that are too young or not yet accustomed to direct rays, and high is the danger of hailstorms.

Watch out for the months of July and August: when temperatures are very high (especially the lows, to the point that the range between day and night is very small) many succulents go into aestivation, they slow down or stop growing altogether to conserve energy. Observation is key here to see if a plant has stopped producing new spines and if the apex tends not to develop. If plants are into aestivation, it’s a good idea to reduce or to suspend watering. In fact, in this condition the plant does not vegetate and therefore does not “drink.” If we water, we risk leaving the roots submerged in a soggy substrate for too many days, with the risk of root or collar rot setting in. Similarly, there are some genera, particularly those native to Chile, such as Copiapoa and Neoporteria, but also non-Chilean plants, such as Pediocactus and Sclerocactus, that stunt growth from July through August. These plants should be stopped watering altogether from the end of June, then resumed in September and, in moderation, watered during October as well.

Fall

Like spring, autumn is a delicate season for succulent plants. Here are some seasonal care for this time of the year. The days begin to shorten significantly from the end of August, and temperatures – usually – begin to drop. Humidity, on the other hand, remains high, especially at night. Plants, with the exception of some genera such as Copiapoa and Pediocactus, slow down their vegetation. It will be essential to observe cacti and succulents well to accommodate their needs and begin to reduce watering.

Based on the cold and wet climate in my growing area, in northern Italy, I usually water a couple of times during the month of September, and then suspend watering altogether until vegetative growth resumes (March). With the last waterings, adding fertilizer and a systemic fungicide against Fusarium, as a preventive measure, may be useful. Also for preventive purposes, in October or November it’s good to spray all plants with copper oxychloride (I usually do a first pass, followed by a second one a fortnight apart). Crucial, as always, is air: until the minimum temperatures drop drastically and steadily (say to 4 or 5 celsius degrees), I leave the greenhouse open, limiting myself to bringing home the few cold-intolerant species I grow, such as Melocactus, Discocactus, some Euphorbia and Adenium.

From late September, early October, I bring almost all plants back inside the greenhouse, to prevent them from getting rain. In fact, cacti must have time to prepare for the dry season by reducing fluids inside the stem and letting the substrate dry out before the first cold weather arrives. I do not repot in the fall unless strictly necessary (e.g., in the case of a plant in distress). I prefer to leave the plants alone at the delicate time of slowing and stalled vegetation.

Several genera flower in this season: among cacti, Ariocarpus, and among succulents, Lithops.

Winter

This is the quietest season: our seasonal care will therefore reduced to a minimum. Plants are in stasis, not growing, do not need to be watered (except for winter-growing species) and do not need to be fertilized. During winter there is also no need for fungal or pest treatments: if the plants are healthy, preventive treatments in the fall and spring are enough. In the northern hemisphere, from the end of October through the end of January, cacti go into stasis: they stop growing to regain energy and prepare for the new growing season. The substrate should be kept perfectly dry and the plants should be protected from rain. Those who have a greenhouse have no problem. Those who grow on balconies or terraces, on the other hand, can shelter the plants in cold, rain-sheltered areas. Even a garage may be fine, although a minimum of light is always good to ensure even for plants in complete stasis.

Cold and winter dormancy are essential for the balanced growth of cacti and for their flowering. Many species are quite cold-hardy and can be kept outside even in northern Italy: for example, Opuntia, Pediocactus, Agaves. If kept dry, almost all kinds of cacti can tolerate very low temperatures, even around zero celsius degrees minimum. Also growing some Euphorbia and other less hardy plants, I have found a compromise; in winter, in my greenhouse I have a thermostat that trips when the minimums goes below 4 celsius degrees.

Here you’ll find everything you need to know about minimum temperatures for cacti and succulent plants.

Winter is a great time for repotting: the plants are in stasis and are not affected because of any root cuts. Also, if we repot in January/February, we will be assured that any wounds to the root system can heal in time for the first watering, which will come no earlier than mid-March.

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Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents: when and how
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Growing cacti and succulents: seasonal care and what needs to be done during the year proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Colourful, flashy, ephemeral. Cactus blooms are sudden bursts of energy. Often the buds develop in a few days to open within few hours, amazing the newcomers to the cultivation of these plants and, above all, those who are not familiar with succulents. In these last few years, I have noticed that there is a lot of misinformation about cacti, in particular about their blooms. Those who do not cultivate these plants can even be surprised that they can bloom, no more or less than the specimens of all the other plant families, forgetting that the flower is the basis of the reproduction of almost all plants. Others are impressed to learn that even cacti can bloom in abundance and several times during the growing season, thinking perhaps that the flowering of a cactus is an exceptional event, almost unique. Nothing could be more wrong: all the cacti regularly bloom, and if there are relatively stingy species, that can produce few flowers for limited periods during the year, there are also really generous species, able to give blooms several times for entire months (for example Echinopsis, Astrophytum, Strombocactus, Gymnocalycium, Trichocereus).

In the following article we see in detail how to make cacti and succulent plants bloom abundantly. (…)

Introduction

If we have to find a flaw related to the flowering of cacti, this is in the fact that their explosions of colour are almost always ephemeral, not lasting. Some species (such as Echinopsis and Discocactus) produce large, flashy flowers that open at night and last only a few hours, so that from the middle of the morning after opening they begin to wither and become withered within 24 hours. Other genera, such as Gymnocalycium, can keep them blooming for two or three days, which is about the maximum that we can expect from a cactus plant. Once ascertained this and accepted the fact that we can not expect from our cacti persistent and long-lasting blooms such as those, for example, of orchids, what can we do to maximize the production of flowers of our cacti?

Plants in the right age to flourish: the primary condition

First of all: when do cactus bloom? Let’s start by saying that every type of cactus can bloom easily. The primary condition for flowering is as banal as it is essential. The plant must be of the age required for that particular species to flourish. For some genera, for instance, Mammillaria, Turbinicarpus, Gymnocalycium, Astrophytum, are enough from two to four years for having the first flowering. Other species require more time, flowering not before the age of eight or ten years (if not more, in some cases), as like Ferocactus, Echinocactus, Ariocarpus, Geohintonia, Aztekium. First, we must therefore know a minimum of the characteristics of the main species, for discerning, according to the age and the size of the plant, if we can trust in the flowering or if we will have to bear patience for a few years.

Here is a gallery with some spring blooms.

The importance of winter rest to make cactus bloom

How to get cactus to bloom? Once established that the plant is in the right condition to make flowers, the first rule in absolute is to ensure our plants a regular annual cycle of growth and stasis. Cacti and succulent plants, for blooming, need a period of whole rest, to recover the energies from the last blooming and to prepare for the next one. For the vast majority of the species, this results in some months of vegetation blockage, months corresponding with our winter and with the prolonged drought season that these plants cross in nature. In summary, we can say that in Europe, from the end of September, the cacti (except some species, in particular, the Chilean ones such as Copiapoa and Eriosyce, then many Escobaria, Sclerocactus and Pediocactus) slow down the vegetation up to enter into stasis. From this period onwards it will be useful to reduce the watering until it is suspended for October (in Southern Italy it is possible to water up to November, considered the mildest climate). In this way the soil will dry completely, they will avoid dangerous stagnations of humidity between the roots, and the plants will begin to deflate in preparation of the winter.

In addition to the stasis induced by the season and the suspension of watering, temperatures are fundamental for flowering. During our winter we must ensure that the plants feel the cold, then keeping them outside the houses, in greenhouses, sheltered terraces, basement, etc. Except for the Cuban species (such as the Melocactus) and of other species growing in subtropical zones (for instance, Epiphyllum, Discocactus), the vast majority of the cacti, if kept in dry loam, can easily stand temperatures just over zero celsius degrees. Many species can go well below zero (Opuntia, Escobaria, Pediocactus, just to name a few), but we can say that the best is to spend the winter with minimum night around 5 or 7 celsius degrees. The cold contributes decisively to the blooming, because, together with the dry, it puts the plants in complete stasis. Under these conditions the cacti block the growth, they rest, they recover the forces for restarting to vegetate in spring and to bloom regularly.

How, when and how much to water cacti and succulent plants?

Light even in winter to make a cactus bloom

It is often heard that during the vegetative stasis the succulents can also stay in little or not luminous places. Many growers, during the winter months, keep them under low light or in garages. Now, if it is true that once the plant has entered in stasis the lack of light does not cause damage (the plant is in fact in a block and does not grow, so it will hardly be able to spin, that is to stretch and deform), it is however indisputable that in nature, even with the change of season, the cacti do not stay for whole months in the dark (or almost). At most, they receive less light due to the shortening of the days and the different incidence of the sun’s rays. It is no coincidence that over the years I have verified that between plants that have overwintered in dimly lit areas and plants that have overwintered in environments exposed to maximum light even in winter (for example those kept in a greenhouse) there is a big difference in terms of flowering. Based on my experience, plants kept in the dark, bloom more hardly or not at all, while those held in bright areas even during the winter bloom abundantly and without any problem.

I have verified it in particular with the genus Notocactus (now called Parodia), according to many of the easiest to cultivate and among the most prone to flowering. For years, when I still didn’t have a greenhouse and in winter I had to repair the plants in a closed terrace exposed to the North, I had failed blooms if not even non-existent, in particular with this genus. Since I had the opportunity to transfer all my plants in my big greenhouse in the country side, all my Notocactus (as well as all other genera I grow) bloom punctually and generously.

How to make a cactus bloom: proper cultivation

Winter rest, cold, light are primary factors for the flowering of cacti. To these is added this factor if we want to take for granted but equally important: a correct cultivation in the year before the vegetative recovery. Plants that during the vegetative season have grown stunted, or have not grown at all or plants that have had problems with pests and fungal diseases will obviously have to think before recovering, rather than flowering. In other words, the cacti that during the previous vegetative season have struggled to survive may require more time to dedicate to the recovery, concentrating the energies, for example, on the reconstitution of the radical apparatus. Stressed, dilapidated plants, blocked by a repotting carried out maybe in an inconvenient moment, in short, could be more about their health than about flowering. Be careful, though: talking about flowering, this is by no means a rule. Let’s say rather a highly probable situation. I have, in fact, happened to see more than once plants in bad condition produce a beautiful bloom. In these cases, the stressed plants have begun to recover appreciably once the flowering has finished, thanks to proper cultivation based on regular watering, few fertilizations and the appropriate exposure to the sun (which should never be directed for plants in distress!).

Fertilizing: an important factor in making cactus bloom

Finally, two words about fertilization, necessary for every cactus to flower. Indeed, fertilization also helps in blooms, but I must say that I am quite thrifty with fertilizations. I do few and low dosages, but I think that if you use poor soils in humus (as I usually have) the fertilizations are useful for the purpose of a rich flowering. With the fertilizer, in fact, is going to adjust the soil, which for cultivation in a pot is available in limited quantities, adding those elements that with time and watering are gradually lost.

For more information on the relationship between fertilization and flowering, you can read my specific post at this link.

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Correlated articles

Cactus cultivation cards
Fertilization for cacti and succulents
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo How to make cactus and succulent plants bloom: what you need to know and what tricks to use proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.