We see them in detail in the following article (…).

Premise

By the time of June, two first dangers for succulent plants should have passed by now, if we have done everything correctly (and regardless of the fact that this spring has been quite anomalous). I am referring to the danger of cracks on the cacti stems and that of burns following a late or “hasty” exposure. Once the cacti have resumed vegetating after the winter stasis, in fact, it may happen that following the first waterings (if too abundant or too close together) the stem “splits”. In this period of the year, even in the case of a wet and cold spring like the latter, cacti and succulents should have already received at least two or three waterings and the stems of the plants should have swollen. If the recovery has taken place gradually and the plants have returned swollen, the risk of stem splitting for this year can be said to have been archived.

In some ways similar speech in terms of exposure: to date all the plants should have been in their ideal location for some time now, where they will remain until autumn. In other words, those who kept cacti and succulents in the basement, entrance halls or garages should have moved the plants to full light (or half light depending on the genre) by now, under penalty of etiolation. Abruptly moving the plants now, with the June sun starting to get stronger, can expose the plants to the risk of severe burns on the stems. Whether the spring is cool or not, whether it is humid or not, the plants must be gradually accustomed to intense sun or direct sun and this must be done between the end of March and the beginning of April. In this way cacti and succulents are able to get used to direct sunlight very gradually, strengthening the epidermis well before the summer sun hits them. If you haven’t moved your plants yet, do it immediately but repair them with shading nets (especially during the hottest hours of the day), otherwise the first burns will begin to appear in the coming weeks!

Maximum air

Having exhausted the necessary premises, which are nothing if not common practices in the correct cultivation of cacti and succulents in general, we recall that the main element of cultivation, at this point, is trivially… the air. Trivially, because this element is often underestimated, or even not considered at all, taking it for granted. The air, on the other hand, is the main factor for the healthy growth of any plant and in this season, with temperatures starting to rise significantly (on sunny days in a completely open greenhouse it can easily exceed 40 degrees Celsius already in June, let alone August), the plants need as much air circulation as possible.

Anyone who cultivates in a very large professional greenhouse will have to open the structure as much as possible, raising the side curtains and possibly leaving the front and rear doors open. Those who cultivate on balconies and terraces should have no problems whatsoever, while those who cultivate in those small greenhouses covered with a transparent cloth must do nothing but… get rid of the greenhouses, remove all the plants from there and disassemble the greenhouses, which can return comfortable, at best, in winter (although they are still not the best due to the limited air circulation they allow). In this period, if we keep the plants in this type of structure, even by raising the openings in the transparent sheet to the maximum, we will still not be able to ensure the plants the air they need, and with high temperatures and humidity the risk of “boiling” plants or creating the ideal environment for the formation of molds and fungi is very high. Therefore, if you haven’t already done so, remove the greenhouses (which can be simply used as shelves) and, since the plants will not be sufficiently accustomed to the intense sun, shield them with a not too light shading net.

The importance of air and light for succulents plants.

Watering and aestivation

In this period, even if the temperatures are not yet very high this year, it is advisable to increase the frequency of irrigation. If the days are sunny and the weather does not predict rain for the following days, it can be watered once a week. The pace can also be increased to two waterings per week for some species or succulent leafy plants if slight wrinkling is noted. As always, the basic rule is to water only when the substrate appears dry and, if in doubt, postpone it. Beware of the hot months, i.e. July and August, when the difference between the maximum and minimum night-time temperatures is minimal: in conditions of persistent heat, many cacti and many succulents can go into aestivation, slowing down or blocking their growth. In these periods it is better not to water at all, since the plants do not absorb water and the soil would remain moist for too long, with the risk of root rot being triggered.
A few more waterings will have to be reserved for very young plants and seedlings, which are not yet able to tolerate long periods of drought in hot conditions and, at the same time, “push” more than adult specimens.

On the phenomenon of aestivation you will find a specific article at this link.

Fertilization and treatments

In June it is still possible to fertilize succulents. A fertilization is enough, assuming that a first fertilization was given in May or April. If the plants have been repotted a few months ago it will not be necessary to add fertilizer to the water, but if we are dealing with specimens that have lived in the same soil for years, an extra fertilization can be useful to replenish the nutrients once present in the substrate. Pay attention to the product (whether it is in powder or liquid form, it matters little), which must be specific for succulent plants and therefore low in nitrogen and rich in phosphorus and potassium, in addition to microelements. During the real summer, that is in the months of July and August, the fertilizations must instead be suspended.

As for treatments, for years I have minimized the use of pesticides and I only use copper oxychloride and Neem oil. The first is a fungicide which should be administered by nebulization only in the months in which the plants are not in vegetation (in this period it should therefore be avoided). The second is a natural product, with low environmental impact, against parasites, mites and with a modest fungicidal function. Neem oil can be administered, always by nebulization, even in this period, with the foresight to act only when the sun has gone down or early in the morning, before direct light reaches the plants. Targeted fungicides and insecticides can be used in specific cases, for example in the event of an attack by the cochineal or rot that affects several plants. In these cases it is always important to isolate sick specimens from healthy ones and carry out targeted treatments every two weeks.

Here you will find a detailed article on the main adversities of succulents, with general indications on how to intervene.

Always remember that the best weapon against pests and diseases of succulents is correct cultivation, in particular a spartan cultivation, with lots of light, lots of air, little fertilization and little fertilizing.

To repot or not to repot?

In this case there is no definitive answer: during the summer it is possible to repot. Personally I prefer to avoid – except in cases in which the intervention cannot be deferred as the plant is in evident state of suffering and has probably lost its roots – and to postpone repotting until the end of winter and spring. With new purchases, especially if the plants are in peat, repotting is instead recommended at any time of the year: it is better to stress the plant a little rather than leave it in an unsuitable substrate, running the risk of triggering rot. As always, if you repot and clean or shorten the roots, it is important to leave the flared plant in a shady place for at least ten days before repotting. After repotting, wait another week or two before watering, so as to give the roots time to heal effectively. This precaution is especially important in spring and summer, when the plants are growing and are watered regularly: obviously in winter the problem does not arise, since many succulents and almost all cacti must be kept in dry soil.

Other practices

Otherwise, summer is a relatively quiet time for the cactus and succulent grower. It is sufficient to observe the specimens and understand whether they are slowing down their growth (aestivation) or not and adjust accordingly with watering. Finally, a little maintenance certainly doesn’t hurt: you can cut the now dry floral stems in the case of plants such as Aloe, Echeveria, Crassulaceae, etc., just as it is a good thing to remove the dried flowers of the cacti, which with watering they soak in water and can feed molds and fungi.

Seasonal cures in detail

If you want a complete picture of seasonal care, with everything you need to do in spring, summer, autumn and winter to take care of cacti and succulents in the best possible way, you can consult this summary article.

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Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents: when and how
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

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L'articolo Towards summer: useful tips for taking care of cacti and succulents and avoiding nasty surprises proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

The topic is a classic and the question is among the most frequently asked among cactus and succulent growers: until when can I water my plants? In other words, given that – as even less expert growers know – it is advisable to keep cacti cold and dry during the winter months until they can be watered, when exactly should we stop watering? And again: should watering be suspended completely or will it just have to be reduced? Are there cacti that can or should also be watered in autumn and winter? Are there any non-cacti succulent plants, especially those with leaves, which need to be watered even in the winter months, otherwise the branches and leaves will wither? It is clear that part of the answer to these questions can vary according to the place where we grow plants (there is a big difference, just to give an example in the Northern hemisphere, between Sicily and Great Britain, Spain or Germany), but in principle it can be said that there are many fixed points that every grower must know and respect in order for his succulents to grow healthy and robust and to flower profusely. Above all, there are some fixed points that must be respected to avoid, quite simply, rotting our cacti and succulent plants during the winter or early spring.

And since the period in which most of the cacti and succulents will go into vegetative stasis is approaching, it is advisable to deepen these fixed points and learn to at least distinguish the macro-water needs of the various families of succulents. This is exactly what we will do in the following article (…)

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L'articolo Summer is at the end of the line: until when can we water cacti and succulent plants? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In short, a kind of handbook to keep in mind every time to organize work, whether you have a greenhouse or a terrace, a balcony or even only a windowsill. Let’s see everything in this article. (…)

Spring

Let’s start our “seasonal care map” from Spring. Between mid-February and early March, many succulents begin to awaken from their winter slumber. The days become longer and the sun begins to warm a little more. We can notice the resumption of growth in some cacti and succulents simply by taking a good look at the apex, from which new spines and, in the case of succulents, new leaves will begin to sprout. In many cases, we can also see the presence of buds, particularly on genera such as Ancistrocactus, Mammillaria, Stenocactus (Echinofossulocactus), Strombocactus and Turbinicarpus.

An article and photo gallery with early blooms can be found here.

At this time of year I do some preventive treatments, mainly fungicide-based, since rising temperatures, when combined with higher humidity, can promote the onset of fungal diseases. So in early March I give a spray with water and copper oxychloride (the so-called “cupric” with its characteristic blue colour, which is also produced in an uncolored formula by Caffaro). I usually follow up a first spray, given strictly on a sunny day (but not under sunrays!), with a second one at a 15-day interval. The plants do stain slightly, but they will clear up after the first real waterings. I don’t give water (I mean watering the potting soil) before the end of March, even if the plants show signs of recovery. I prefer to be cautious and start watering only when the temperatures have stabilized and the plants are all growing.

Also as a preventive measure, spraying with a product against plant pests can be useful. About this, Neem oil is recommended, which is naturally based and gives a very high protection. For specific products against red spider mite and mealybug, the best is to wait a few more months, when temperatures will be higher and may, eventually, favour the arrival of these insects.

In this period of year is fundamental to start giving as much air to the plants as possible. If the lows no longer drop below freezing, except sporadically, it’s a good idea to partially open the greenhouse or uncover plants kept under “tnt” (nonwoven fabric) during the winter, while still keeping them out of the rain. Temperature changes are not a problem: even in nature, plants are subject to them and indeed benefit from them. From the end of February I generally raise the side sheets of my greenhouse by half a meter, so to let my plants having a good air circulation, and then raise them within a month or so. From the end of April, I also leave the front and back doors of the structure wide open, so as to ensure as much air circulation as possible.

Spring, or rather the end of winter, is a great time for repotting: the plants are about to wake up and there is still time before watering. We can then safely repot the plants that need it in the new potting soil, having so much time in front of us (at least a month) for any root wounds to heal before the substrate receives its first watering. If you can keep some plants in full sun, outside the greenhouse or on terraces or balconies without any cover, this is the best time to accustom cacti and succulents to direct sunlight again. The March sun is not yet strong, and plants that are already sufficiently formed (so not seedlings!) have time to get used to the bright light without burning their epidermis. Never put a plant in direct sun during the hottest months, such as July or August, especially if it has been kept in a greenhouse or otherwise covered by tarps or netting, or under the shelter of other plants. As an added caution, a light shade net can be useful for a few weeks if placed over the plants we put in direct sun in March. At the time of April, the net can be removed and the plants will not run the risk of sunburn.

The first waterings can be done, also depending on weather conditions, from late March onward (at least where I grow, in northern Italy). The first passes are done with water alone or with water and a systemic fungicide. Fertilizations, on the other hand, can be done from the third or fourth watering onward, when the root system of the plants is back in full working order.

Finally, again in spring, sowing can be done. Let’s say from when the minimum temperatures are no longer below 12/14 celsius degrees.

At this link is an in-depth look at what you have to do in spring to prepare cacti and succulents for growth.

Summer

Seasonal care begin to vary with the arrival of summer. From June through mid-August, cacti and most succulents are in full bloom. Blooms also abound during this period, when succulents want as much light and as much air as possible. In fact, succulents are able to tolerate very high temperatures (even up to 50 degrees), as long as they have air and water available when needed.

Plenty of watering can be done during this period, making sure that the water soaks the entire soil loaf and allowing the substrate to dry well between waterings. Plants kept outdoors can take rain even for several days in a row: if the soil is correct, they will not rot. Between June and August it is also useful to do some fertilizing: during the entire growing season, from March to September, I fertilize a maximum of three times. Watering can also be daily if the soil is very draining and if we are in warm, windy areas. In North Italy I have noticed that a good watering rate is once every ten days. This way the plants grow slowly but in a balanced way and I don’t run the risk of rot. It is different for seedlings, which I water once a week to encourage their development.

When temperatures rise it is possible for mealybugs and red spider mites to make their appearance. Treatment by spraying with specific products may be useful, especially as a preventive measure. However, at this time of the year avoid spraying with copper oxychloride fungicide, which should not be given during the growth phase because it can slow or stop vegetation. In summer it is good to be careful with plants that are kept in direct sun, that is not in a greenhouse or not sheltered: the sun could burn plants that are too young or not yet accustomed to direct rays, and high is the danger of hailstorms.

Watch out for the months of July and August: when temperatures are very high (especially the lows, to the point that the range between day and night is very small) many succulents go into aestivation, they slow down or stop growing altogether to conserve energy. Observation is key here to see if a plant has stopped producing new spines and if the apex tends not to develop. If plants are into aestivation, it’s a good idea to reduce or to suspend watering. In fact, in this condition the plant does not vegetate and therefore does not “drink.” If we water, we risk leaving the roots submerged in a soggy substrate for too many days, with the risk of root or collar rot setting in. Similarly, there are some genera, particularly those native to Chile, such as Copiapoa and Neoporteria, but also non-Chilean plants, such as Pediocactus and Sclerocactus, that stunt growth from July through August. These plants should be stopped watering altogether from the end of June, then resumed in September and, in moderation, watered during October as well.

Fall

Like spring, autumn is a delicate season for succulent plants. Here are some seasonal care for this time of the year. The days begin to shorten significantly from the end of August, and temperatures – usually – begin to drop. Humidity, on the other hand, remains high, especially at night. Plants, with the exception of some genera such as Copiapoa and Pediocactus, slow down their vegetation. It will be essential to observe cacti and succulents well to accommodate their needs and begin to reduce watering.

Based on the cold and wet climate in my growing area, in northern Italy, I usually water a couple of times during the month of September, and then suspend watering altogether until vegetative growth resumes (March). With the last waterings, adding fertilizer and a systemic fungicide against Fusarium, as a preventive measure, may be useful. Also for preventive purposes, in October or November it’s good to spray all plants with copper oxychloride (I usually do a first pass, followed by a second one a fortnight apart). Crucial, as always, is air: until the minimum temperatures drop drastically and steadily (say to 4 or 5 celsius degrees), I leave the greenhouse open, limiting myself to bringing home the few cold-intolerant species I grow, such as Melocactus, Discocactus, some Euphorbia and Adenium.

From late September, early October, I bring almost all plants back inside the greenhouse, to prevent them from getting rain. In fact, cacti must have time to prepare for the dry season by reducing fluids inside the stem and letting the substrate dry out before the first cold weather arrives. I do not repot in the fall unless strictly necessary (e.g., in the case of a plant in distress). I prefer to leave the plants alone at the delicate time of slowing and stalled vegetation.

Several genera flower in this season: among cacti, Ariocarpus, and among succulents, Lithops.

Winter

This is the quietest season: our seasonal care will therefore reduced to a minimum. Plants are in stasis, not growing, do not need to be watered (except for winter-growing species) and do not need to be fertilized. During winter there is also no need for fungal or pest treatments: if the plants are healthy, preventive treatments in the fall and spring are enough. In the northern hemisphere, from the end of October through the end of January, cacti go into stasis: they stop growing to regain energy and prepare for the new growing season. The substrate should be kept perfectly dry and the plants should be protected from rain. Those who have a greenhouse have no problem. Those who grow on balconies or terraces, on the other hand, can shelter the plants in cold, rain-sheltered areas. Even a garage may be fine, although a minimum of light is always good to ensure even for plants in complete stasis.

Cold and winter dormancy are essential for the balanced growth of cacti and for their flowering. Many species are quite cold-hardy and can be kept outside even in northern Italy: for example, Opuntia, Pediocactus, Agaves. If kept dry, almost all kinds of cacti can tolerate very low temperatures, even around zero celsius degrees minimum. Also growing some Euphorbia and other less hardy plants, I have found a compromise; in winter, in my greenhouse I have a thermostat that trips when the minimums goes below 4 celsius degrees.

Here you’ll find everything you need to know about minimum temperatures for cacti and succulent plants.

Winter is a great time for repotting: the plants are in stasis and are not affected because of any root cuts. Also, if we repot in January/February, we will be assured that any wounds to the root system can heal in time for the first watering, which will come no earlier than mid-March.

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Correlated articles

Watering cacti and succulents: when and how
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Growing cacti and succulents: seasonal care and what needs to be done during the year proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Colourful, flashy, ephemeral. Cactus blooms are sudden bursts of energy. Often the buds develop in a few days to open within few hours, amazing the newcomers to the cultivation of these plants and, above all, those who are not familiar with succulents. In these last few years, I have noticed that there is a lot of misinformation about cacti, in particular about their blooms. Those who do not cultivate these plants can even be surprised that they can bloom, no more or less than the specimens of all the other plant families, forgetting that the flower is the basis of the reproduction of almost all plants. Others are impressed to learn that even cacti can bloom in abundance and several times during the growing season, thinking perhaps that the flowering of a cactus is an exceptional event, almost unique. Nothing could be more wrong: all the cacti regularly bloom, and if there are relatively stingy species, that can produce few flowers for limited periods during the year, there are also really generous species, able to give blooms several times for entire months (for example Echinopsis, Astrophytum, Strombocactus, Gymnocalycium, Trichocereus).

In the following article we see in detail how to make cacti and succulent plants bloom abundantly. (…)

Introduction

If we have to find a flaw related to the flowering of cacti, this is in the fact that their explosions of colour are almost always ephemeral, not lasting. Some species (such as Echinopsis and Discocactus) produce large, flashy flowers that open at night and last only a few hours, so that from the middle of the morning after opening they begin to wither and become withered within 24 hours. Other genera, such as Gymnocalycium, can keep them blooming for two or three days, which is about the maximum that we can expect from a cactus plant. Once ascertained this and accepted the fact that we can not expect from our cacti persistent and long-lasting blooms such as those, for example, of orchids, what can we do to maximize the production of flowers of our cacti?

Plants in the right age to flourish: the primary condition

First of all: when do cactus bloom? Let’s start by saying that every type of cactus can bloom easily. The primary condition for flowering is as banal as it is essential. The plant must be of the age required for that particular species to flourish. For some genera, for instance, Mammillaria, Turbinicarpus, Gymnocalycium, Astrophytum, are enough from two to four years for having the first flowering. Other species require more time, flowering not before the age of eight or ten years (if not more, in some cases), as like Ferocactus, Echinocactus, Ariocarpus, Geohintonia, Aztekium. First, we must therefore know a minimum of the characteristics of the main species, for discerning, according to the age and the size of the plant, if we can trust in the flowering or if we will have to bear patience for a few years.

Here is a gallery with some spring blooms.

The importance of winter rest to make cactus bloom

How to get cactus to bloom? Once established that the plant is in the right condition to make flowers, the first rule in absolute is to ensure our plants a regular annual cycle of growth and stasis. Cacti and succulent plants, for blooming, need a period of whole rest, to recover the energies from the last blooming and to prepare for the next one. For the vast majority of the species, this results in some months of vegetation blockage, months corresponding with our winter and with the prolonged drought season that these plants cross in nature. In summary, we can say that in Europe, from the end of September, the cacti (except some species, in particular, the Chilean ones such as Copiapoa and Eriosyce, then many Escobaria, Sclerocactus and Pediocactus) slow down the vegetation up to enter into stasis. From this period onwards it will be useful to reduce the watering until it is suspended for October (in Southern Italy it is possible to water up to November, considered the mildest climate). In this way the soil will dry completely, they will avoid dangerous stagnations of humidity between the roots, and the plants will begin to deflate in preparation of the winter.

In addition to the stasis induced by the season and the suspension of watering, temperatures are fundamental for flowering. During our winter we must ensure that the plants feel the cold, then keeping them outside the houses, in greenhouses, sheltered terraces, basement, etc. Except for the Cuban species (such as the Melocactus) and of other species growing in subtropical zones (for instance, Epiphyllum, Discocactus), the vast majority of the cacti, if kept in dry loam, can easily stand temperatures just over zero celsius degrees. Many species can go well below zero (Opuntia, Escobaria, Pediocactus, just to name a few), but we can say that the best is to spend the winter with minimum night around 5 or 7 celsius degrees. The cold contributes decisively to the blooming, because, together with the dry, it puts the plants in complete stasis. Under these conditions the cacti block the growth, they rest, they recover the forces for restarting to vegetate in spring and to bloom regularly.

How, when and how much to water cacti and succulent plants?

Light even in winter to make a cactus bloom

It is often heard that during the vegetative stasis the succulents can also stay in little or not luminous places. Many growers, during the winter months, keep them under low light or in garages. Now, if it is true that once the plant has entered in stasis the lack of light does not cause damage (the plant is in fact in a block and does not grow, so it will hardly be able to spin, that is to stretch and deform), it is however indisputable that in nature, even with the change of season, the cacti do not stay for whole months in the dark (or almost). At most, they receive less light due to the shortening of the days and the different incidence of the sun’s rays. It is no coincidence that over the years I have verified that between plants that have overwintered in dimly lit areas and plants that have overwintered in environments exposed to maximum light even in winter (for example those kept in a greenhouse) there is a big difference in terms of flowering. Based on my experience, plants kept in the dark, bloom more hardly or not at all, while those held in bright areas even during the winter bloom abundantly and without any problem.

I have verified it in particular with the genus Notocactus (now called Parodia), according to many of the easiest to cultivate and among the most prone to flowering. For years, when I still didn’t have a greenhouse and in winter I had to repair the plants in a closed terrace exposed to the North, I had failed blooms if not even non-existent, in particular with this genus. Since I had the opportunity to transfer all my plants in my big greenhouse in the country side, all my Notocactus (as well as all other genera I grow) bloom punctually and generously.

How to make a cactus bloom: proper cultivation

Winter rest, cold, light are primary factors for the flowering of cacti. To these is added this factor if we want to take for granted but equally important: a correct cultivation in the year before the vegetative recovery. Plants that during the vegetative season have grown stunted, or have not grown at all or plants that have had problems with pests and fungal diseases will obviously have to think before recovering, rather than flowering. In other words, the cacti that during the previous vegetative season have struggled to survive may require more time to dedicate to the recovery, concentrating the energies, for example, on the reconstitution of the radical apparatus. Stressed, dilapidated plants, blocked by a repotting carried out maybe in an inconvenient moment, in short, could be more about their health than about flowering. Be careful, though: talking about flowering, this is by no means a rule. Let’s say rather a highly probable situation. I have, in fact, happened to see more than once plants in bad condition produce a beautiful bloom. In these cases, the stressed plants have begun to recover appreciably once the flowering has finished, thanks to proper cultivation based on regular watering, few fertilizations and the appropriate exposure to the sun (which should never be directed for plants in distress!).

Fertilizing: an important factor in making cactus bloom

Finally, two words about fertilization, necessary for every cactus to flower. Indeed, fertilization also helps in blooms, but I must say that I am quite thrifty with fertilizations. I do few and low dosages, but I think that if you use poor soils in humus (as I usually have) the fertilizations are useful for the purpose of a rich flowering. With the fertilizer, in fact, is going to adjust the soil, which for cultivation in a pot is available in limited quantities, adding those elements that with time and watering are gradually lost.

For more information on the relationship between fertilization and flowering, you can read my specific post at this link.

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Correlated articles

Cactus cultivation cards
Fertilization for cacti and succulents
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo How to make cactus and succulent plants bloom: what you need to know and what tricks to use proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In the following article we look in detail at what we have to do in the run-up to summer to best prepare cacti and succulents and avoid problems. (…)

Aestivation

The slowing down of vegetation in cacti is called “aestivation“: basically in the middle months of summer many plants slow down or stop their activity, just “waiting” for the great heat to pass. It will therefore be a good idea to observe them well and try to tell from both the new spines and the stem whether they are in full growth or not, and adjust watering accordingly. Many succulent plants and many cacti, such as Agave and Euphorbias, Gymnocalycium and Echinopsis, have limited aestivation. For these, therefore, a watering regime appropriate to the rate at which the soil dries out can be maintained, watering as often as once every 7 to 10 days. The area in which you are growing succulents is also decisive: in North Euorpe, let’s say, you still should not overdo the watering, given the high ambient humidity rates, while in the South of Europe you can even go so far as to water almost every day if necessary.

A more in-depth discussion on watering can be found here.

Wanting to make an initial broad distinction, it is important consider that Chilean plants, such as Neoporteria (Eriosyce) and Copiapoa, from mid-June to the end of August stop or slow down their vegetation considerably. For these genera we can’t really talk about aestivation, but watering should be suspended altogether during this period, because there is a risk that, with the plant stopped and unable to absorb water, the soil will remain wet for a long time, triggering rot. Plants such as Echinocactus polycephalus, Sclerocactus and Pediocactus also slow down their vegetation significantly in summer and, like Copiapoa and Neopoerteria, should be kept dry and, if possible, in slightly shaded areas so as to contain the heat. Most cacti, on the other hand, simply go into aestivation in August, a month during which I use to suspend watering altogether. A special attention should be paid to the leafy succulents, such as Echeveria, Crassula, etc.: for these species it will be enough to adjust based on direct observation. If the leaves begin to shrivel and lose turgidity, you will be able to water. Otherwise, better to wait.

Fertilization

Also during the warm months, it’s better to avoid fertilization: plants “work” less and absorb less water, and fertilization may prove unnecessary or even harmful.

When and how fertilize cacti and succulent plants.

Pests and adversities

In July and August, with the great heat, conditions are created for the proliferation of the red spider mite, one of the main pests of succulents. Hot and dry weather are the factors that favor the presence of this pest, which attacks the tender parts of the plants’ stems. You can then resort to some spraying (which does not go to wet the soil, but only the aerial part of the plant) and a few of preventive treatments with specific products.

An article on pests and diseases of succulents can be found here.

Without a doubt, the best thing to do during the warm months is to encourage maximum air circulation. This obviously applies to those growing in greenhouses or partially sheltered areas: outside, plants enjoy normal air recirculation and are therefore able to tolerate the intense July and August sun and high temperatures. On the contrary, plants grown in greenhouses (even if open) have less air available and are exposed to temperatures that can easily exceed 40 degrees. There are many solutions: a shade can be placed on the roof of the greenhouse to contain the insolation, or all moving parts of the structure can be opened to the maximum. Finally, thermostat-controlled fans (or a timer) can be used for improving indoor air recirculation.

Seedlings

A separate discussion must be reserved for sowings: seedlings born in spring are not yet able to withstand long periods of drought, but they should be sufficiently developed by now to tolerate the wet/dry alternation. They can therefore also be watered during the summer, but allow the soil to dry out almost completely between waterings. Leaving seedlings completely dry for a month can drastically slow their vegetation or even lead to their death. Seedlings one or more years old, on the other hand, are better able to withstand dryness. For these, as for adult plants, the golden rule is observation: if the plants are swollen and turgid, they can be left to dry out during the hottest weeks. If they tend to deflate excessively you can provide for a focused watering. Remember that aestivation can also affect young plants!

Seasonal care in detail

If you want the complete picture of seasonal care, with what needs to be done in spring and autumn to best care for cacti and succulents, you can check out this article or this one.

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Watering cacti and succulents
How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

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