Among these, some species of Echinocereus, as the plant you see in the photo, which I had given up for dead, and whitch instead was reborn after two winters spent entirely outdoors, exposed to the cold and humidity whitch characterizes northern Italy. In this article here is the history of this plant and a brief overview of the succulent plants that we can keep outdoors all year round. (…)

Premise

The precautions we take to protect our succulents during the winter months, particularly in the Northern regions, are important. Yes, because if it is true that most cacti and many succulents (to understand the difference between cacti and succulents you can read this article) have good resistance to the cold, it is equally true that too much watering or a night frost is enough to seriously damage these plants or, potentially, trigger rot, particularly if the cold is accompanied by prolonged environmental humidity conditions. Moving the plants to a place sheltered from the rain, covering them with various layers of non-woven fabric, sheltering them in not cramped greenhouses and airing them on sunny days is certainly the best solution to minimize losses. In some cases even this is not enough: think of cacti such as Melocactus, Discocactus and all epiphytes, or succulents originating from Madagascar and some African areas, such as many Euphorbias and all Adenium obesum. All these plants require minimum temperatures not lower than 15-16 Celsius degrees and must therefore be brought indoors from at least mid-October, when the night-time minimum temperatures begin to drop significantly.

Here you will find an article with two downloadable PDF handbooks with the ideal placement for the various succulents in winter.

The Echinocereus returned from the cold

Having made the necessary introduction, here is the story of this Echinocereus of mine who wanted to amaze me, at the same time giving me an important lesson and reiterating the concept – which I have already assimilated thanks to other experiences in the past – that with succulent plants it is important not to give anything for granted. The plant in question is an Echinocereus laui. I grow a few specimens of the Echinocereus genus and I grow them mainly for the flower, since I don’t find the stems or thorns of these plants particularly attractive (with a few exceptions such as E. lindsayi). The plant you see in the photos has been with me for several years. Doing some quick calculations, just under twenty years to be more precise and the story of his “apparent death” and rebirth (in the cold) dates back at least four years. Initially this plant, which I took while still very small, in a 6 or 7 centimeter pot, grew regularly, soon starting to take on its columnar shape (although its size was limited to about fifteen centimeters) and to flower regularly.

At a certain point, years ago, the main stem sent out a branch and the plant, little by little, took on a “double” appearance: over time the stem and the branch in short reached the same height. Well before the branch reached the main stem, however, the latter began to bend significantly, to the point that I decided to tie it to a plant support. In those years the plant grew regularly and flowered, as can be seen from the photo on the side. After further years, when the two stems were now even, the Echinocerus began to slow down its growth, until it stopped completely. The apex did not develop and did not produce new spines. In the meantime, the stems were bending more and more noticeably despite the support and the lower part of the plant began to take on a grey, not at all encouraging, appearance.

After a couple of seasons, seeing that the Echinocereus showed no signs of recovery and that the entire stem had now taken on an ugly greyish colour, I thought there was nothing left to do. The plant did not grow or flower. It showed no obvious signs of rot but the color of the stem seemed like a complete condemnation, to the point that I didn’t even bother to dig up the plant and check the roots. Considering it to be in fact already dead, I limited myself to removing it from the greenhouse and taking it outside, placing it along a low wall where I usually leave the plants affected by some fungus or otherwise dead. The wall is located along a field and offers no shelter from the rain and, obviously, from the cold. I use it mostly to let the plants go in peace when I think there’s nothing left to do…

The Echinocerus spent the final part of the summer in that position, the entire following winter and, since I completely forgot about it, the entire year after that, including the winter. Only after a year and a half, therefore, did the plant manage to attract my attention. How did it do? Simply flowering, so that while hanging out near the greenhouse I spotted a couple of spots of color in the distance (Echinocereus laui produces beautiful magenta flowers, not as large as those of other Echinocereus but still very showy). Not without surprise, I approached the wall after almost two years and discovered that the Echinocereus had not only survived two winters in the cold, in full humidity and receiving the rain that had fallen in all that time, but had started again. The recovery was evident: the apical part of the two stems was green, the plant had produced new thorns perfectly identical to the old ones, and had flowered. As proof of all this, here in this article are some of the photos I took on that occasion.

Here’s a good lesson for me: the plant I had given up on had come back to life, in my face, and had attracted my attention by starting to flower again. All this without any treatment from me, in fact, resisting the cold and humidity of two winters and returning to grow as if nothing had happened. Obviously, as soon as I discovered that the Echinocereus was in full vegetation and, even with the old part of the stem still grey, I brought it back to the greenhouse, where it is still found today and where every year the two stems, increasingly longer and increasingly prostrate (I gave up the support, letting the plant take on the shape it wanted or needed to take on) they regularly give me splendid blooms in late spring. Once again Nature has shown me that, no matter what we do, in the end it is always and only she who decides.

Succulents that tolerate cold

Despite the “rebirth” of my Echinocereus, it must be said that this genus of cactus is among the most inclined to tolerate low temperatures. Of course, as a precaution I don’t recommend keeping your Echinocereus outdoors all year round, also because some species resist better than others and not all would survive, but the genus is robust, there’s no doubt about that. 

As regards, more generally, succulent plants that tolerate the cold well and that we can leave outdoors all year round, albeit with some precautions, here is a small overview based on my experience over many years of cultivation.

As obvious as we want, but among the first succulents that have a good relationship with the cold we cannot fail to mention the Agaves. In many areas of Italy (even in the North, particularly in the areas close to lakes) and in southern France (French Riviera) these succulents can also be grown in the open ground. In pots they can remain outdoors all year round, although the advice is to keep them under sheds or porches to prevent the soil from remaining constantly damp. Among the Agaves, the exception is the macroacantha species, which cannot resist intense cold and excessive humidity. This species must therefore be sheltered and kept at temperatures no lower than 3 or 4 Celsius degrees. Also be careful with Aloes, which many mistakenly associate with Agaves. Aloes are plants of African origin and require significantly higher minimum temperatures than Agaves (although 6 or 7 Celsius degrees are sufficient) and should not be watered in winter.

Still remaining in the field of non-cacaceae succulents, the Sempervivum and Sedum (genera belonging to the Crassulaceae family) should be mentioned without hesitation. For these plants, which also grow in the mountains, winter is a… walk in the park and they thrive better in the cold than closed in a greenhouse or sheltered by layers of non-woven fabric. Sedum and Sempervivum can therefore be left outdoors all year round without any shelter from the rain: they grow better in the cold than in the oppressive heat of summer!

Cacti that resist outdoors

Most cacti can handle the cold very well, even intense temperatures, i.e. with night-time lows around zero Celsius degrees (even a few degrees lower), as long as they are in a dry substrate from the end of September. Some genera are even more robust and can be kept outdoors all year round, in some cases even in damp soil (but avoiding the stagnation that can be created with excessively peaty substrates or, worse, leaving the plants resting on saucers).

Among the most resistant cactaceae are undoubtedly almost all Echinopsis, which are often left on balconies and terraces with the only precaution of sheltering them from the rain (although these plants are often able to survive even in damp soil). Almost all Opuntias are very robust and, like the Agaves, in some areas (Southern Italy, the Ligurian Riviera, the French Riviera) grow in the open ground without any problem. Tephrocactus, Chilean plants that have some affinities with Opuntia, also tolerate the cold well and can spend the winter outdoors, as long as they are sheltered from the rain. However, a spray from time to time during the winter months is useful for these cacti, which if kept dry for months easily lose their “cladodes” (the new parts of the stem). Within the Tephrocactus genus, however, it is useful to keep the geometricus species sheltered, which is very “in fashion” in recent years: the cold and humidity easily cause stains on the stem of this cactus.

Other genera of cacti accustomed to spending long periods in intense cold are the Pediocactus and the Escobaria (almost all species). These are not very widespread genera but are ideal for those who want to grow cacti without having to move them in the winter months. Pediocactus and some species of Escobaria (for example E. vivipara) can tolerate temperatures several degrees below zero even in damp soil. For years I have kept some specimens of Pediocactus (simpsonii and knowltonii) and some Escobaria vivipara outside the greenhouse all year round, letting them get the rain even in winter: they have always resisted and flowered regularly.

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Correlated articles

• Where to keep succulents in winter?
• Succulents and cold: minimum temperatures
• Seasonal care for cacti and succulents
• Be careful of winter blooms

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Succulents outdoor all year? Here are the ones that resist and the story of my “resurrected” Echinocereus proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

With the beginning of autumn almost all succulent and cacti begin to prepare for the vegetative stasis which will last until February/March. In the winter months, cacti (with some exceptions such as Melocactus, Discocactus and epiphytes such as Epiphyllum) and many succulents (with the exception of those originating from the southern hemisphere or areas such as Madagascar) stop growth and go dormant to recover energies and be able to flourish during the following season. In these months the plants should be kept cold and should not be watered. However, it is useful to carry out some preventive treatments to prevent the formation of mold or fungi during these months, thanks to the winter humidity, which, when the temperature start to rise, triggers rot. Warning: preventive treatments with chemical products can be useful but do not necessarily have to be carried out. It is simply a preventive measure, since the best form of defense is always the spartan cultivation of plants accompanied by a good exchange of air during autumn and winter. There are growers who limit these treatments to the essentials, perhaps favoring products with a low environmental impact (I myself have adopted this decision for years) and growers who abuse chemical products in the hope of thus making their plants invulnerable to animal parasites, fungi and mold.

In this article, which completes what has already been explained in other articles (which you will find thanks to the internal links) we see what is advisable to do in these weeks to protect the plants and limit losses due to rot or parasites as much as possible. (…)

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L'articolo Here comes autumn: what treatments can we do to protect succulents and reduce losses? proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

A practical handbook and an in-depth analysis on a much debated topic among those who grow succulent and/or cactus plants. Here’s what you’ll find by reading this article, designed specifically to help those who, with the first drops in temperatures, are starting to wonder where to place their succulents when the real cold arrives. Unless you have a greenhouse, perhaps equipped with a burner regulated by a thermostat, the question is in fact more than pertinent: during the winter it is better to keep the succulent plants outside (sheltered from the rain), or in a cool environment such as a landing, an internal staircase or even a garage? Or should we bring all the plants indoors? It is good to clarify immediately that the answer to these questions cannot be tranchant or “absolute”: obviously the correct winter location depends on many factors, starting from the area in which the plants are grown (North or South Italy? North or South Europe? Sea or high mountains?) to arrive at the type of plant (Cactaceae, succulent native to Africa or Madagascar? Sempervivum, Crassula, Euphorbia?). In short, the range of cases is very broad and as always there are no absolute rules. Luckily there are many fixed points and many precautions that should be respected to ensure that our succulents pass the winter securely and take advantage of the vegetative stasis to be able to flower again the following year.

The following article answers these questions, and you will also find an indication of the correct measures to be taken to ensure that cacti and succulents overwinter in the best possible way, have abundant blooms and, above all, you’ll find a practical handbook with an indication of the best location for cacti and succulents organized in alphabetical order, so as to facilitate the identification of the plant, understand in which minimum temperature range it can stay and where it can be placed (for example outside, on a landing, or directly inside the house). (…)

Premise

Succulent plants, whether Cactaceae or succulent plants belonging to other families such as Crassulaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Euphorbiaceae, etc., are not houseplants. They can certainly adapt to home cultivation, but they are plants that require light, air and which find their best location in outdoor environments such as windowsills, terraces, gardens or open greenhouses. This, of course, in the growing season which generally runs from March to October. The problem, and therefore the focus of this article, is winter, also because not everyone has the possibility of having a greenhouse or a garden. Given the slight drop in temperatures in recent days, questions are growing regarding how to behave in view of the cold weather in the coming months. As always, given that succulents are a varied world, made up of thousands of botanical species, unfortunately there is no single answer. However, there are parameters and references on which we can rely to give the correct answer to the question regarding wintering. These parameters are essentially the guides underlying the handbook that you will find at the end of the article.

Attention: this article is designed specifically for those who are not yet very familiar with these plants and need practical information and quick answers: for example, I have this succulent, where can I place it when it gets cold? For more specific insights and tables with the minimum temperatures that succulents can reach, it is possible to refer to two other articles published in the past. The first article, accompanied by a table with minimum temperatures, can be found at this link. The second article, which deals with seasonal care in detail, can be reached via this link.

Cacti

Let’s begin to distinguish between Cactaceae and succulent plants in general. The distinction is not intended to complicate the matter, but rather to simplify it to more quickly identify the correct solution to the initial question: where to place the plants during the winter? If you want to learn more about the difference between a cactus and any other succulent (for example Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops), you will find this article helpful.

Almost all cacti tolerate low temperatures very well. By low temperatures we mean minimums close to zero Celsius degrees or even well below this value. The cacti can therefore also be placed outside as long as watering is completely suspended at the end of September and they are positioned in a cold place sheltered from the rain. These are also the essential conditions for the plants to flower from the following spring. Therefore, a terrace, a balcony or a garden are fine. The important thing is that the cacti do not take on water until the end of March and the temperatures do not fall below zero Celsius degrees for several consecutive nights. In the event of frost or prolonged nights with temperatures well below zero, it is advisable to move the plants to a less cold place, even if only temporarily. A useful precaution is to cover the cacti with at least two or three layers of non-woven fabric: naturally it doesn’t work miracles, but two or three degrees more ensures them and, above all, allows transpiration, preventing condensation from forming on the plants or a humid environment is created, which is very dangerous for these plants as it favors the formation of stains on the stem, mold and fungi. On sunny winter days it is useful to raise the tissue even for a couple of hours to ensure the plants have a good exchange of air. It is best to avoid small greenhouses closed by thick sheets of transparent plastic, unless you always leave them open during daylight hours.

An exception to this basic rule are some genera of cacti, which do not tolerate the cold and should therefore be kept indoors or in environments where temperatures do not fall below certain limits (for example an internal staircase, a landing or even a garage). In these cases it is not necessary for the plants to receive a lot of light because if we suspend watering the cacti go into stasis and stop growing. This avoids the risk of “etiolation”, i.e. the so-called “spinning” which disfigures the plant from an aesthetic point of view. Attention: however, if we see excessive wrinkling of the stem or branches of these cacti, particularly if they are wintering indoors, it is advisable to water in moderation, at most once a month. The cacti that do not tolerate the cold are those originating from tropical areas and forests: firstly the epiphytic cacti (Schlumbergera, but also Epiphyllum, Rhipsalis, Aporocactus); secondly, two species native to Brazil and the Cuban archipelago: Melocactus and Discocactus. All these plants must winter at minimum temperatures no lower than 12/14 Celsius degrees (Melocactus and Discocactus require even higher minimum temperatures, between 16-18 Celsius degrees): you will find all the indications and the reference to the genus in the handbook accompanying this article.

Succulent

In theory, for succulents the matter becomes a little more complicated. This is because the Cactaceae is a single family that is divided into genera, species and subspecies. Succulents, on the other hand, are distributed in various families which are in turn divided into genera, species and subspecies. The number of these plants is therefore very high and providing specific indications plant by plant is almost impossible. However, even in this case it is sufficient to set a few “boundaries” to make the matter less complicated. The first element to consider is the place of origin of the plant: many succulents come from Africa or Madagascar (for example Euphorbia and Lithops). Clearly these plants require higher minimum temperatures and cultivation at home or in an environment where the minimum temperatures do not drop below 10/12 Celsius degrees is ideal. Other families or genera, for example Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, tolerate intense cold very well, in many cases even well below freezing.

Even with succulents it is advisable to suspend or at least reduce watering during the winter months, whether they are in a cold environment or in an apartment. During the winter months, in fact, almost all plants slow down in growth and frequent watering would only expose the specimen to the risk of root rot. Generally speaking, you can adjust as follows: from the end of October to the end of March, succulents should be placed in environments sheltered from rain and at temperatures between 7 and 16 Celsius degrees. There are many exceptions, such as the aforementioned Agave, Sempervivum and Sedum, which we can keep outdoors even without protection and letting them take the rain (as long as it is not torrential and lasts for whole days). Other plants, such as some species of Euphorbia, Echeveria, Lithops (the so-called “stone plants”), tolerate the cold well but must be kept dry and at temperatures between 2 and 7 Celsius degrees. Other plants native to Africa or Madagascar, such as Adenium obesum (called “Desert Rose”), Pachypodium (the so-called “Madagascar Palm”), Uncarina and several species of Euphorbia require several degrees more because they do not tolerate the cold: all these plants will therefore have to be brought indoors from at least mid-October, unless autumn is mild and the minimum temperatures remain high even in this period, as happens in the regions of Southern Italy, Southern France or in Spain.

The handbook that completes this article will also be useful to orient you between the needs of the various succulents.

The handbook

The handbook (actually the handbooks, since one is dedicated to cacti and the other to succulents). It is intended to be a useful tool for the still inexperienced grower or for the expert grower who is approaching a particular genre for the first time. Naturally, the handbook should be considered as a tool, a sort of “map” through which to orient yourself and should not be understood as an “absolute” compendium with dogmas or strict rules, also because the temperatures indicated have been “rounded” a little upwards precisely with the aim of not putting your plants at risk (for example if the range between 5 and 10 degrees is indicated, it is very likely that the plants included in this range can tolerate even a few degrees less). Many growers have conducted experiments discovering that certain plants can resist temperatures lower than what is commonly thought, just as others have found that plants considered rustic were not able to survive the winter (in these cases, however, it is more likely that unpredictable factors have occurred, such as frequent frosts or that the specimen itself was already weak or not in perfect shape).

How to read the handbook

The handbook – both for cacti and succulents – is designed for quick and easy consultation. The three icons consider three possible environments for the wintering of plants:

1. the outside: the plants should be placed outside the house but sheltered from the rain and, for caution, protected by a few layers of non-woven fabric;
2. environments protected from rain but without heating, such as a landing, an internal stairwell, a room in the house where the radiator has been closed. For succulents that fall into this “category”, at most, even a very sheltered corner of a balcony can be fine, as long as the plants are covered by at least four layers of non-woven fabric;
3. the apartment: warm environment (generally between 18 and 20 Celsius degrees) and obviously protected from rain. In this case it is best to place the plants near a window and away from heat sources.

Each icon is color coded and genres are listed alphabetically. It is sufficient to scroll through the downloadable handbooks below, identify the genre whose needs we want to know and look at the color of the line in which the genre is written: depending on the color we then refer to the icon.

Download the handbook on winter placement of cacti

Download the handbook on winter placement of succulents

 CULTIVATION CARDS  – To further deepen your knowledge of a single genus of cactus or succulent, remember that in the website shop, at this link, detailed sheets are available in downloadable and printable PDF format with notions, anecdotes, curiosities and precise cultivation instructions. You can find the cards simply by scrolling through the shop, after the section dedicated to subscriptions.

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Correlated articles

Succulents and cold: a table with reference values
Seasonal care for cacti and succulents
How to grow cacti: the handbook

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Where to keep succulents in winter? Outside, on a landing or in the house? A practical handbook proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

For any plant enthusiast, whether succulent or not, planting is an extremely important point of arrival. An arrival point which, in many cases, soon turns into a starting point which accompanies the enthusiast for most of his life. It is undeniable that there is no comparison between a purchased plant and one we have seen born, grow and develop from a tiny seed, even more if we have collected that seed from one of our plants. This is somewhat the “magic” of sowing: closing a circle born of a flower with another flower, the one produced by the plant originating from that first seed that we have been able to germinate, become a plant and lead to full maturity. And all this without going into detail about the satisfactions that are obtained by trying to select particularly interesting species, from flowers of unique colors to peculiar or almost unique thorns or stem shapes. As regards the procedure for sowing cacti and succulents, many novice growers “get lost” in the proverbial glass of water right after the phase least subject to our control, i.e. germination: we cannot in fact force a seed to germinate, although there are good practices that favor the birth of plants.

For many, however, the critical issues begin after that moment, that is to say in the first months of life of the plants, which are indeed delicate months because the seedlings are still weak and easily subject to rotting or parasitic attacks. It is above all to these growers that the following article is addressed, with a little “trick”, to be understood as advice, on how… to make life easier for seedlings and how to let them pass the first winter unharmed. (…)

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L'articolo Sowing cacti: how to prepare plants for the first winter and the “trick” to help them in the first few months proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Unfortunately it is a less rare phenomenon than one might think. The flower itself, the maximum expression of the plant, its instrument for reproducing and safeguarding the species, can transform itself into its executioner. With cacti, plants that require seasonal rest corresponding to the winter months, the flower can sometimes be fatal. It obviously only happens with those species that flower in mid-winter, therefore a small minority compared to all cacti. But it is often precisely from there, from that flower that blooms in November, December or January, that the rot is triggered and which, if neglected or not seen, can lead the specimen to death. This is what happened to two of my Ferocactus latispinus in recent days. Or rather, in the past few weeks, except that the damage has become apparent recently. And now it was too late to intervene and save the plants.

In this article we look into this phenomenon and see what can be done to prevent it or, at least, be able to intervene before the rot passes from the flower to the plant. (…)

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L'articolo Be careful of winter blooms: rot can start from here. Here are the species at risk proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In this article, we see what you need to do this month for keeping cacti and succulents in perfect health, even preparing them for winter diminishing the risk of rot and loss. (…)

In August, for several years now, I suspend watering altogether. In the greenhouse, temperatures easily exceed 40 degrees Celsius, and many cacti slow down or stop growing because of the phenomenon known as “estivation”. Many species keep to flower regularly (e.g. Gymnocalycium, Ferocactus and some Mammillaria), but it doesn’t mean that the growth’s rate has not slowed down. That’s why I prefer to avoid watering all my plants, except the leafy succulents, and let them follow their natural rhythms. This prevents the soil from staying wet for too long when the plant is in dormancy, and it causes root or collar rot.

Watering

The last watering of the summer is usually at the end of July for all my cacti, especially for those with particular growth rates, such as Copiapoa and Neoporteria, for which I stop watering even earlier, in mid-June. At the beginning of September, I start watering all my plants again, thinning them throughout the month and watering them every ten days at the most. The actual cessation of watering usually coincides with the beginning of October to give the soil time to dry out totally and for the cacti to reduce their internal water reserves and start preparing for autumn and winter. This is true for adult plants: for seedlings and one or two-year-old plants, I extend the watering period until mid-October, but water sparingly. I pay particular attention to plants of the genus Ariocarpus, which I water until mid-September at the latest. These plants, which have tap roots, are sensitive to humidity and have considerable water reserves, and I have learned that with the climate of Northern Italy, characterized by very wet and often cold winters, it’s suitable to stop watering earlier. The plants are not affected at all and do not deflate until late in the winter. Moreover, they bloom abundantly from mid-autumn to the first half of December.

Fertilizations

In September, as far as fertilizing is concerned, it’s better to give the last coat with a specific product (here is an article dedicated to fertilizers for cacti and succulents). You can have a first watering at the beginning of September with only water and add fertilizer in low dosage at the second watering, after about ten days. Fertilizing in September is helpful for the plants: it gives them the nutrients they need to get stronger before the winter break and helps the blooms when they resume in the spring. I generally limit myself to single fertilization in September, but it is possible to fertilize a couple of times before the watering stops, as long as low doses are used. Again, the situation is slightly different for seedlings and young plants (one or two years old): for these, I add fertilizer during the last watering in October to “push” them a bit and strengthen their growth.

Treatments

September is also the month of preventive treatments against parasites and diseases. Since the plants start to vegetate again, it is not recommended to use copper-based fungicide (which slows down the growth), which should be sprayed instead in the autumn months and only on warm and windy days. Some spray with copper fungicide throughout the winter, once or twice a month to prevent the proliferation of fungi or “rust”, but for several years I limit myself to a couple of passes in October and a couple of passes in February, just before the recovery. In September, however, it’s advisable to add a broad-spectrum fungicide to the water for watering and spraying the plants a couple of times with an acaricide or Neem oil, a preventive measure against aphids, mealybugs and other pests.

Checks

It’s important to carefully check the plants to identify those suffering and isolate them immediately to prevent them from spending the fall and winter months in contact with healthy plants. In this way, you can preclude the risk they may transmit diseases that can spread with the humidity that usually there’s in autumn.

Repotting

Finally, stop repotting. For several years now, I have avoided repotting (except for plants in severe pain) in September when cacti and succulents are vigorously vegetating again and in October and November. While repotting can generally be done almost any time of the year, I prefer not to “disturb” my plants at this time of year to avoid the stress of repotting in the crucial phase of preparation for autumn and winter. On the other hand, repotting can be done without problems when the plants are in stasis, i.e. in late winter or, better yet, towards the end of winter, just before vegetative recovery.

All about the repotting in this section of the site.

Also, by repotting plants before the end of winter, we will be sure that several weeks will pass between repotting and the first watering, thus giving any roots that may have been damaged or cut during repotting plenty of time to heal before wetting the soil.

Plants in outdoor

The plants I keep outside the greenhouse during the growing season finally stay in place, exposed to direct sun and weather, until mid-October if the early fall is not particularly rainy. At that point, I move everything back inside the greenhouse, which I leave open until the end of November. In fact, if the temperatures are not too low, it’s essential to give the plants all the air possible even in autumn and winter, opening the greenhouses for a few hours on the hottest and most ventilated days. This simple expedient very much reduces the risk of onset and spreading of fungal pathologies. The “toughest” plants, such as Ferocactus and Echinocactus, will return to the outside of the greenhouse from the middle of March to help them get used to the direct sun gradually and avoid sunburn.

Succulent plants and summer: everything you need to know.

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L'articolo September is a brilliant month for all cacti, but pay attention to proper care ahead of autumn proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

Now let’s see everything we can do at this time of the year, especially if we don’t have a greenhouse and we grow on the windowsill, on the balcony, on a terrace or in the garden. With a warning: whatever you have to do, with succulents and cacti, you must not be in a hurry: hurry to water, hurry to treat, hurry to move the plants… Getting caught up in the rush, the anxiety, the fear of doing something wrong, is the best way to run into mistakes. So let’s see how to avoid them. (…)

Check the plants

The first fundamental action in spring is to check the plant carefully for detecting any traces of bacterial diseases (dark spots caused by fungi) or parasites (particularly the mealybug/cochineal). In the first half of mid-March, even with healthy plants, it’s however advisable to carry out some preventive treatment by spraying stems and leaves with a specific pesticide (against mealybug and spider mite) and, about ten days later, with a broad-spectrum fungicide (attention: copper oxychloride should be used only when the plants are in stasis, so from March should be suspended). Both treatments – pesticide and antibacterial – must be repeated a fortnight after to ensure complete coverage of the plants.

Give as much air as possible

When the minimum temperatures have settled at 10/12 degrees, it’s essential to give succulents as much air as possible. Plants that have overwintered indoors (except for some species, a thing to avoid!) or in cold but closed environments such as a basement, a garage or a veranda should be moved outdoors and placed on windowsills, terraces, balconies. If plants have been overwintered outdoors, protected by sheets or layers of non-woven fabric, they should simply be uncovered so they can benefit from all the possible air. In these cases, it’s necessary to pay attention to the weather because prolonged rains in a period characterized by not yet high temperatures can be dangerous for succulents, which do not tolerate water stagnation in the soil and excessive humidity. The plants must be placed on a balcony or terrace protected from the rain or covered by a roof.

The sudden changes in temperature that characterize spring, with daytime highs above twenty degrees and nighttime lows that can drop sharply below ten degrees, should not worry: in nature, almost all succulents are exposed to similar conditions and indeed greatly benefit in terms of growth and flowering. Exceptions are succulents coming from areas close to the Equator, such as those from Madagascar (Adenium obesa, but also Uncarina, Alluaudia and Pachypodium) or some cacti coming from tropical regions of South America, such as Melocactus, Discocactus, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Rhipsalis: these species need minimum temperatures not lower than 15-16 degrees and to be moved outside only later, in late spring.

Air is of fundamental importance for any plant, even more so for succulents, which do not tolerate environmental humidity nor water stagnation in the substrate. In open-air, the soil dries faster, the stems can transpire effectively, and the risk of bacterial attack is significantly lowered. Tight, closed environments without air exchange are to be avoided, especially in spring and summer, when succulents are in full vegetation, and their tissues are swollen with the water that constitutes their water reserve, and it is, therefore, necessary that the soil dries quickly after the plant has absorbed the liquids it needs.

Exposure: getting plants used to it

Closely related to air is exposure to the sun. In spring (in march), it’s necessary to provide succulents with more light to encourage proper development of tissues, leaves and thorns and at the same time encourage flowering. Be careful, though: as with all plants, succulents (including Cactaceae) need to be grown gradually. Moving a plant that has spent the winter indoors outdoors and immediately placing it in full sun can be dangerous even for the most “fierce” and thorny cactus, which will suffer sunburn and stem discolouration. We will have to gradually accustom the succulents to the light, which becomes more and more intense in spring, exposing them to direct sun a little at a time. From the middle of March, it will be sufficient to place succulents on a windowsill exposed to the South or Southeast (exposure to the North is to be avoided because it does not provide enough light), or on a balcony, a terrace or directly in the garden, taking care, however, to place them in the shade of outdoor plants that will act as a screen to sunlight. Alternatively, it is possible to protect succulents with a simple gardening net or with a piece of mosquito net properly fixed to braces or supports and able to screen at least 30-40% of sun rays.

In the shade of other plants or screened by shade netting, succulents will gradually get used to direct sunlight, and within a month to a month and a half, you can bring them to the foreground or remove the shade netting. As far as exposure is concerned, it’s still important to know the needs of our succulents since there are genera that tolerate intense sun and others that prefer a little shade (like many species of Euphorbia or Haworthia, for example). When in doubt, it is good to provide succulents with bright light all day long, exposing them to direct sun rays only during the morning, not later than midday. In this way, it’s possible to avoid sunburns and to guarantee the necessary light for the best growth. Particularly for cacti, which will continue producing “important” and not stunted thorns and at the same time keep compact and harmonious stems. When we have a better knowledge of our plants and have learned their needs, we can be more “targeted” when they come to exposure and give the various specimens the right amount of direct sun (for example, in the case of almost all cacti).

To learn how to distinguish succulent plants and know their needs, you can read this article dedicated to classification.

Resume watering

As the exposure to light, which should be gradual, watering should be increased little by little. During the winter, watering should be suspended for almost all succulents, while in spring it’s necessary to accompany the resumption with initially moderate and then more sustained watering. As spring approcaches, in March (weather permitting) a couple of waterings will be enough, while in April, it will be possible to go up to one watering every ten days, making sure to wet well all the soil. From May, you can further increase the watering, reaching one per week. Be sure that between one watering and the other, the loam can dry completely. As always, the advice with succulents is not to overdo it: it’s easier for a succulent plant to die from too much water than from thirst. Consider that these plants are xerophytes, evolved to deal with long periods of drought: when in doubt, it’s a good idea to postpone watering. For regulating the frequency of watering, it’s fundamental also the composition of the soil: here, you will find the “recipes” of various substrates that I have tested over the years.

Fertilize: which products to use

With the arrival of spring and the increase in watering, it’s beneficial to fertilize (or “manure”) succulent plants to promote balanced growth and encourage flowering. As for any other plant, fertilizing is essential to replenish the soil with nutrients that are lost. However, you have to use a specific fertilizer for succulents and not rely on universal products or, worse, calibrated for other plants, such as orchids or horticultural. Wrong fertilization, both in terms of the type of product and frequency, can cause severe damage to the plant and compromise its growth, arriving, paradoxically, to weaken it, as well as deform the stem. Therefore, it’s necessary to limit fertilization (I am very stingy in this regard: two or three fertilizations per year, at most), to be administered by simple watering diluting the product in water, to a maximum of once a month from April until mid-June at the latest, with a further pass in September, before the plants slow down the vegetation.

As for the product, on the market, there are specific fertilizers for succulent plants, and generally, high-quality products have correct ratios between the various macroelements. Knowing how to interpret the label, however, is the first step. Basically, it is sufficient to verify that the level of Nitrogen (indicated with the initials “N”) is considerably lower than that of the other two macro-elements that make up all fertilizers for plants, namely Phosphorus (indicated with the letter “P”) and Potassium (“K”). As an indication, a good fertilizer for cacti and succulents should have 1 part Nitrogen, 2 or 3 parts Phosphorus and 4 or 6 parts Potassium. The dosages indicated by the various manufacturers are variable, but it will be enough to keep these proportions in mind to choose the correct product. According to the most commonly used formulations, we can have a ratio of 6-18-36, or 5-15-30, where 5 stands for the Nitrogen dosage, 15 for the Phosphorus one and 30 for the Potassium one. Balanced fertilizers are to be avoided, those with equivalent dosages of the three macroelements (for example, 10-10-10). In addition to the three macroelements, a good fertilizer for succulents should not lack the so-called mesoelements and microelements, such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, manganese, boron, copper, zinc, iron, which contribute to a balanced development of the plant in various aspects: root system, stems, thorns, flowering, disease resistance.

For the dosage, it will be sufficient to refer to the indications on the package, taking care to halve the quantities in order not to overdo the fertilization, since succulents are extremely adaptable plants with few needs in terms of nutrients, many of which are already present in the growing medium.

If you want to learn more about fertilization, you can read this specific article.

Don’t be in a hurry

In closing, by my experience and the constant contacts I have with readers and enthusiasts who ask me for advice, I would like to reiterate the concept expressed at the beginning of this article: with cacti and succulents, don’t be in a hurry, never anxious. Our plants are more robust and tolerant than we think: let’s make their time our own and not let ourselves be led by the frenzy of wanting to give them excessive attention. Let’s limit ourselves to the correct care and respect their times, which are decidedly less hectic and anxious than ours, remembering that the border between passion and obsession can be thin…

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Here is a video of me moving some of my plants outside my greenhouse:

Correlated articles

How to repot cacti and succulent plants
Substrates for cacti and succulents
The correct soil: the materials you can use

© The texts, videos, photos and graphic elaborations of the site “Il fiore tra le spine” are original material and are covered by copyright. It’s forbidden to reproduce them in any way.

L'articolo Preparing cacti and succulents for spring: exposure, fertilizing, here’s what to do proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

From the highest peak to the lowest, about thirty degrees Celsius passes. This is the sudden change in temperature to which my succulents (90% cacti) have been exposed in recent weeks, almost all kept in the greenhouse which is still rigorously open 24 hours a day. All the Agaves remain outside the greenhouse, some Aloes, various Opuntia, Tephrocactus, Pediocactus, some Echinopsis and some cacti that I placed in the ground for experimentation. Can such sudden changes in temperature damage plants? Are nighttime lows starting to get too low for cacti and succulents in general?

There are many who wonder and, since I have received several messages in this sense, I have decided to write this short article to answer these questions. (…)

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L'articolo Sudden changes in temperature and first colds: with cacti and succulents there is nothing to fear proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

We look at the benefits of repotting cacti and succulents over the winter in the article that follows. (…)

Repot in winter: the advantages

By repotting in winter, the plants are completely still (except for those that grow even in the cold like Pediocactus and some Escobaria, for example) and the soil is completely dry and it is easy to clean the roots well, where needed. If the soil in which the plant is found is already correct and if I have decided to use the same type of soil for that plant, I simply shake the earth a little to free some roots and check that the root system is in good condition and does not contain parasites. It is essential that the new substrate is dry or, at most, slightly damp. Another important aspect deriving from the choice of the winter months for repotting is in fact this: until the end of March the plants will not receive water and the roots will have plenty of time to heal. Some injury to the secondary roots is almost inevitable during repotting and, in the event of a change of substrate with thorough cleaning of the root system (for example if the plant was in peat) it can easily happen to break or injure even the primary roots. Similarly, in the event of a total change of soil or a suffering plant, it may be necessary to drastically shorten the roots by cutting them. For all these reasons, winter repotting is preferable. This is a guideline, not a rule, though. In fact, cacti and succulents in general can be easily repotted even when they are in full vegetation, as well as when they are in bloom. In these cases, however, it is important to repot in dry soil and wait at least two or three weeks before watering, keeping the plant in a bright place but not in direct sunlight.

Wait or repot immediately?

Many wonder if it is necessary, once a plant has been flared (in winter or in summer, the substance does not change), to leave it bare root for some time or if it can be repotted immediately. Let’s say that leaving the plant with the roots in the air, in a place sheltered from direct light, is certainly a good precaution. In this way we will be sure that any injuries or cuts to the roots will heal perfectly. From what I’ve learned, though, this step isn’t always necessary. If the plant is healthy and if the fleshy roots have not been injured or cut, you can repot immediately: time to remove the old substrate, check that there are no parasites among the roots, and repot in the new substrate. For years I have only allowed plants to dry for a few days in the case the root system has been affected by rot (in this case I also treat it with a powder fungicide) or those plants with major lesions to the primary roots or taproot.

Some examples

In recent weeks, as for years now, I have been dedicating myself to repotting my plants, in particular to repotting some of my sowings from 2017. These are mainly Gymnocalycium (spegazzinii and ferox), Lobivia ferox, Thelocactus lloydii. To these are added some of my sowings of Ferocactus latispinus already of a fair size, since these are plants born in 2010. All the plants are in perfect condition: the roots are healthy and well developed and the plants are robust and well formed. For my convenience and to help the growth of still young plants a little, for repotting I used a standard soil based on pumice, lapillus and peat in equal parts, to which I added 5% of fine sand.

In these photos, here are some steps of the repotting procedures during winter. To learn more about the topic, you can consult the section “Repotting“. If you want to know more about soils and materials for making the various substrates, you can instead consult the “Substrates” section.

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Correlated articles

All articles on sowing cactus and succulents
When to pricking out cactus seedlings
Seasonal care for cactus and succulents
Cactus cultivation cards

L'articolo Repotting cacti in winter: here’s why and what are the advantages of this choice proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.

In this article, we’ll learn how to cultivate the “Christmas Cactus”, for obtaining its abundant blooms without any problems. (…)

Schlumbergera is, in fact, a very popular houseplant during its flowering period, also because it’s very decorative and hardy, and its flowers are persistent: they can last a couple of weeks or more, which for a cactus is quite a long time. On the market, you can find specimens with blooms of almost every shade, from fuchsia to red, to pink, white, yellow or orange: the endless hybridizations for the commercialization of these plants have led to an almost infinite range of colours.

Schlumbergera are native to South America, in particular to Brazil. This implies that these plants are not able to bear too low temperatures. They like minimums of no less than 7/10 degrees.

Here you can find an article about the distribution of cacti and succulents in the world.

Their cultivation is quite simple. When the plant produces new “articles” during the growing season, it’s better to keep Schlumbergera outdoors. It’s better if in a bright place, not exposed to direct sunlight. In fact, in-kind these cacti live in the shelter of leafy plants, so that light reaches them shielded.

The soil must be, as always, well-draining, but lusher than the ideal soil for most cacti. For these plants, 70% of peat or universal soil and 30% of inert material (sand, gravel, pumice) can be enough. When we buy them, these plants are in a soil consisting exclusively of peat, just like most cacti from nurseries that do not specialize in succulents or cacti. However, if for all other cacti it is a good idea to remove the peat and thoroughly clean the root system and then repot in proper soil, for Schlumbergera it can be difficult and often disastrous. The root system of these succulents is, in fact, contained and formed by thin roots, and a careful cleaning could seriously damage it, with the result, moreover, that the various “stems” that make up the plant would not be more stable once placed in the new substrate. For this reason, making an exception to the usual procedure, with this plant I simply remove the old pot, shake out a bit the soil to remove excess peat (without breaking the root block) and repot in larger pots with more draining soil.

Watering must be regular in spring and summer (be careful, however, to stagnate, since it uses a mainly peaty soil) and very spaced in autumn/winter. In summary, we can say that the substrate must be almost always wet, except in winter, when it can be left to dry well between one watering and the other.
During the winter months, you can keep the plants at home, keeping them warm, or, even better, in little heated and luminous rooms.

From the first half of November, at least on the two specimens, I have had for several years, buds begin to form, which open in the first weeks of December. It’s commonly said that Schlumbergera, once they have started to produce buds, should not be moved because they will lose their bloom. From what I’ve been able to verify, the warning is not entirely unfounded, at least during the initial stage of bud formation. In the past, it happened to me to bring a Schlumbergera indoors and see it loose all of its buds within a few weeks. For the past few years, I’ve taken the plants indoors only when the buds are about halfway through their formation: they settle in smoothly and bloom abundantly. For flowering, in any case, the general rules for cacti apply proper cultivation and winter rest, with the difference that Schlumbergera must be overwintered at temperatures not too low and with sporadic watering even in the coldest months.

The multiplication by cuttings of these cacti is quite simple: in spring it is enough to detach a well-formed article and place it on the sand, nebulizing from time to time. After a few weeks, the first roots will sprout, and the new plant will begin to develop. When the roots become sufficiently formed, it can be repotted in suitable potting soil.

You may also be interested in “How to repot cactus“, or “Identify and classify succulent plants“.

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L'articolo Schlumbergera, the “Christmas cactus”: how to make it bloom in all its abundance proviene da Il fiore tra le spine.